Rebabbiting revisited

Hudsy Wudsy

This is from a posting that I made on 12/20, if I recall right. It was in response to this thread:



http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12294



I'm not all together sure that Hudsonrules ever saw it, though. I only bring it up again at this time to talk a little more about rebabbitting in general and to play a small role in getting us back to the joyous subject that we all have in common - Hudsons! I think that it might be a good idea to talk about this subject because I fear that less experienced owner's of Hudson splashers may find the rebabitting process objectionable. Just as we've all known some who thought the Hudson fluid clutch was a feeble anachronism, so too is it likely that some among us feel rebabbiting rods is an archaic and obsolete process. Also, the cost of having rods rebabbitted seemed to vary widely when I first looked into it some years ago. Would some of you guys like to talk about your experiences with having rods rebabbitted? Do you have any resources that you've had good luck with?



Here, below, is the part of that prior (Hudsonrules) thread that I contributed:



Here's two sources for rebabitting:



Harkin Machine Shop

903 43rd St NE

Watertown, SD 57201

United States

605-886-7880

"Mail order and open shop. Monday-Friday 8 am to 6 pm. Rebabbitting engine bearings and complete rebuilding of antique car engines."

Tom Harkin has been in business many years in Watertown, South Dakota. He advertises regularly in Hemmings Motor News. While he does a lot of Model A work, he can handle plenty of other rebabbitting jobs as well. It's been two or three years since I spoke with him last, but at that time he quoted me $35.00 @ rod journal for a Hudson splasher. That's a lot cheaper than many. He doesn't require that you ship him your crank if you don't want, but rathers that you at least have it turned first and then give him precise journal sizes. He has the necessary jig/mold to rebabbitt your main bearing shells (they're removable) as well. Because main bearings on Hudson splashers are replaceable, you might think that they are readily available, but they are pretty scarce. You might try Dale Cooper, Egge machine or Kanter, if you insist on installing new mains.



This ebay seller has Hudson rods on hand:



http://stores.ebay.com/Vintage-Autom...Q3amesstQQtZkm



You'll need to know that the forging number on your rods is #157369 when talking to him.

Lastly, are sure that your engine absoluely needs to be totally rebuilt? Engines that have sat a very long time can suffer from shrunken gaskets (front and rear seals, and valve cover, usually) and a tendency for rings to stick to the pistons, but the gaskets and seals can be dealt with and the rings wil usually loosen up and reseat with time.

Unknown

Regarding babbit work, for you west coasties, Dave Johnson has been doing babbit work for nearly 30 years. Heres the good news he is nearly half the cost of the other guys.



He has both a mail order business and a retail shop. He is a consumate automotive machinist as well. He is a wealth of information and advice. I have used him on brass cars as well as 20-30's motors and all have performed excellently.



His shop is located in Roslyn Washington, just east of Seattle on I-90. The phone number is 509-901-2929, As he is located on the east side of the Cascade Mountians, sometimes his cell phone does not get a signal, just leave your message and number and he will call you right back.



Brass car guy.

oldhudsons

Rebabbiting the rods may be superfluous if the crankshaft isn't within specs, in other words worn, scored, etc. ergo often crucial to grind the crank in conjunction with rebabbiting the rods.

In Escondido, Cal. is a machine shop with an exc. crank grinder who will then take the crank with the proper specs to a famed babbit pourer. He has even done the crank on Pete Laughn's '13 model 6-54!

If interested drop me an e-mail as my friend in Escondido who can set you up with these 2 businesses isn't online, I'll give you his phone #.

Park_W

I've used Harkin Machine for a couple sets of H8 rods, and a set of mains as well. Based on these I'd say he does excellent work ... if you give him the crank journal diameter to the ten-thousandth and the amount of clearance you want, that's what you'll get. And I agree his prices are quite reasonable compared to most.

[Deleted User]

This is one area where you can really get taken for a ride. Like others have said i think Harkin Machine in S.D. does the best for the money. you want a good job but then most Hudson owners do not put 100,000 miles on their parade or meet car, I had one guy who wanted to do my splasher 6 cyl. rods, mains, cam bearings for only $1600.00! I laughed and said the $600.00 part was right. In the midwest there alot of old tractors rebabbited and shops are alittle more affordable. You have to know what you need and what the shop can do. You need to shop around.

Hudsy Wudsy

oldhudsons wrote:

Rebabbiting the rods may be superfluous if the crankshaft isn't within specs, in other words worn, scored, etc. ergo often crucial to grind the crank in conjunction with rebabbiting the rods.

In Escondido, Cal. is a machine shop with an exc. crank grinder who will then take the crank with the proper specs to a famed babbit pourer. He has even done the crank on Pete Laughn's '13 model 6-54!

If interested drop me an e-mail as my friend in Escondido who can set you up with these 2 businesses isn't online, I'll give you his phone #.

I'm sorry, but I thought starting with a freshly reconditioned crank was implied.

Unknown

I had my rods and mains done by HARKIN 30 years ago. Excellent work. Had the mains done to semi. then had the block and mains linebored at a local shop in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. The rods were done to my specs, then I fitted them myself.