Vehicle is warm and will not re-start.

Unknown

I run my Terraplane for awhile. It will not start when it is warm. It turns over with no problem. There is gas in the filter. If I wait for awhile it will start. Any suggestions?

Jon B

My first thought it the coil, though it could probably be any number of things. I had a coil that wouldn't start the car til it cooled down. Is this a relatively new coil? You could check it when the car is hot by removing the cable from the top of the distributor cap and holding it near the engine block (preferably with some non-conductive tool, not your fingers). Make sure the points are closed (and ignition is on) and then momentarily pull the points apart. There should be a spark between the cable you're holding, and the block.



Barring this, try installing a new condensor. (It's always the condensor's fault!!)

Geoff

It is most likely the anti-percolating adjustment not right, allowing vapour to enter the carb throat. The anti-percolating valve must be open when the throttle is closed, opening the float bowl to the atmosphere to allow vapour to disperse.

Geoff.

Unknown

Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:

It is most likely the anti-percolating adjustment not right, allowing vapour to enter the carb throat. The anti-percolating valve must be open when the throttle is closed, opening the float bowl to the atmosphere to allow vapour to disperse.

Geoff.

OK, I will give that a shot. Thanks, Geoff C!

[Deleted User]

I have had a problem with points sticking open when the car is warm. Cleaning and relubricating the post has cured it.

The original exhaust line had a fitted asbestos shield near the fuel pump. Lack of a heat shield could contribute to the vapor lock mentioned above.

Jon B

The thing about vapor lock, you're usually aware of it BEFORE you shut your car off. The engine is cutting out, and doing all sorts of mean, nasty things.



Anyway, one thing I have done to prevent this (in my '37) is installed about 8 of the gaskets (or spacers) between the carb and the manifold, to prevent heat transfer. And I put one of those metal heat deflectors there as well (with 4 spacers above and 4 below). Wrapping the gas line with an asbestos substitute, from the carb down to the fuel pump, can be helpful too. And, as Bill, suggests, you can wrap the exhaust pipe as well.