1951 -1952 Hornet Technical Information

[Deleted User]

I probably posted above message in wrong section of FORUM therefore I am posting again, I'd appreciate any helpful rear end/suspension information. Today I will spend 12 hour day 4 hour drive each way and four hours at chrome plater's which should all of my plating requirements.



As I mentioned in earlier FORUM message I am posting three pictures with engine, trans and floor pan, that about it until next weekend. Does any member have have any experience with Ford 9" rear end/suspension installation, if so I'd be interested in learning about it and also proper measurements would be helpful.



Thanks,



Ray

super651

Ray, Let us know the Quality and price of the plated parts.

Your PAL and Friend Rudy

( hope all is well in Household )

[Deleted User]

Hi Rudy,



I left my house this morning at 5:00 AM (15 hour day) and just returned from Palm Springs CA. Plater..On the way ran into snow and I 15 was backed up for miles therefore we arrived at plater's late and could not finish pot metal, because the shop closes at 2:30 PM...I only was able to use copper tank and ran pieces in soft copper tank for 45 minutes, workers whn home and nobody around to color buff after removing from copper tank, so I came home with parts and will color buff tomorrow. When John (master polisher)makes another run to Palm Springs he will complete using nickel tank for 20 minutes and finish in chrome...This is great new plating shop we found and does all the high bathroom fixture's, silver plating assortment from Japan. Shop is expensive and sort of plating boutique for high end useage, (old saying you get what you pay for) my stuff was mixed with some other parts and we'll breakdown cost per piece tomorow and will let you know more. To anwser your question about quality, personally I've been to three plater's and this shop is the best organization with proper trained staff and office management, quality control etc., so far. Rudy are talking about parts that aren't prepped, polished or clean parts ready to plate? In other words, I had my parts cleaned, removed pits etc and only using th plater facility to plate parts, take a look at pictures in my FORUM 51-52 Hornet Tech message, the parts in the picture look like they were chrome plated already, but they weren't, they were however ready to plate. Another problem, most plater's do not like to prep and polish, they like clean ready to plate parts only.





Maybe you can help me with following question: Does any member have have any experience with Ford 9" rear end/suspension installation, if so I'd be interested in learning about it and also proper measurements would be helpful.



Thanks,



Ray

super651

Thanks Ray, No one local has installed one on a step-down but,I will try to install one on our 1946 Casper ????

Check with OL Racer maby he can help (on the forom)

More later. Pal Rudy

[Deleted User]

Thank you Brother Bennett,



Will let you know more about plating quality and your price concerns in next day or two. Price depends on if you are going to plate a polished/prepped/clean part (this plater doesn't like to polish and wants only clean parts to avoid tanks contamination, as I said he's a boutique plating operation and doesn't even want to run bumper's. He has all upmarket classic car restorer in Palm Springs business; I guess it's his way or the hiway?



Pal Ray

Ol racer

Ray,

I noticed your interested in Ford 9" for a Stepdown. I like the Ford 9" for many reasons....strength, 4.5 Bolt Circle, many different widths & ratio's, drop out pumpkin, yet light in wt, and Posi's are easy to find.



I do not know the exact widths but I do have a 9" under my Stepdown with slicks and one under my Terraplane. I narrowed both housings more because of using real wide tires so my Car measurement wont help. (At the time I couldnt find a real narrow Ford housing locally) However, since then I found two housings that im saving for another project (God willing) that I measured if this helps..

one Housing Backing plate flange to flange is 53 1/2" marked '57 Ford, and the other is 56 1/2" Ford Yr unknown.



Ford Econoline ('67 up) have the narrowest housings followed by Bronco II. The best bet is to walk the Salvage yard with a tape to look for your width and 4.5 Bolt Circle. You need to watch because Fords also have 5.5 bolt circle and some 9" with unequal width tubes. I never had any problem running off center driveline though. Actually I use a 1 pc driveshaft. The 9" Yoke bolts to Hudson U Joint. Spring Pads need cut off and re-welded. I set Hudson and Ford side by side measure pinion angle then tac weld pads. (Dont over heat or disort Tubes)



If cant find real narrow width for stepdown consider local machine Shop narrowing any housing in a lathe then shorten & re-spline the axles. Ford Axles have a nice shank for re splining. Cost here around 250 -$300 and usually only thing needed inside Rear are new seals. They have 28 & 31 splines. Componets will interchange if use Axle & Gears.

Unknown

I used a Ford Granada in mine. Width was perfect, but I cant remember the dim. I changed spring pads, and even attached the sway bar, no problems. However I think the granada is an 8.0 inch, a lot cheaper and plenty strong for a stock Hudson engine, I am running a Ford 302 in mine. Hope this helps.

[Deleted User]

bluenash wrote:

I used a Ford Granada in mine. Width was perfect, but I cant remember the dim. I changed spring pads, and even attached the sway bar, no problems. However I think the granada is an 8.0 inch, a lot cheaper and plenty strong for a stock Hudson engine, I am running a Ford 302 in mine. Hope this helps.

My thanks to Ol racer and bluenash for past experienced helpful information, I'll be visiting the car this weekend and will past information onto new builder who's restoring my car.



Once again my thanks,



Ray

[Deleted User]

Hi Rudy,



Sorry for delay of your questions, I had to finish other side of front support backrest, check out pictures. As I mentioned we couldn't complete plating in day and brought back parts that were only put in soft copper tank for almost 45 minutes. Had them color buffed in Las Vegas shop and they are ready for nickel and chrome plating next week, you can see from pictures I had one handle completely done in chrome and the other parts are still in copper. As for the quality, I am not a judge but I would rate these parts highly and install on my car any day. I would definitely would use these vendors; price as follows:

I don't think Palm Springs plater will accept a small plate run, I piggybacked the new Las Vegas plating shop (cut on paste http://americancarchrome.com web-site, click on different pages and you'll see a picture of Black Beauty) and received the following; all triple plated: Complete polishing, prepping and plating; handles at $35.00 each and antenna at $55.00, however if you have clean polished, prepped parts and only require plating, cost of handles @ @12.25 and the antenna would be $19.25 once again to qualify for these prices you piggyback a larger load of plating. I hope I explained properly, if you have any further questions, you know Rudy I’ll do my best to answer you.



Pal Ray

[Deleted User]

Made a little progress today,



Remove entire front clip and radiator support (last builder/butcher didn't return mine) needed for correct measurement to go forward with engine installation. While doing so I have accumulated plenty of spare parts from '51 Hornet sedan, see some of the pictures.



Ray

Unknown

My 2 cents for what it is worth. I have done alot of research into rear ends for old cars. When you go to the wrecking yard, take a look at the newer style 8.8 Ford rear ends from the ford Explorers. Lots came with 302s are plenty stout, lots of ratios available, come with posi, 5 on 4.5 bolt circle and can be got with or without rear disks. They are quite plentiful and can be got cheap. And oh yeah, they are the same width as the early broncos and granadas. Alot of rods are being built with them. 9 inch are great, but sometimes the cost of narrowing etc. can be alot more money than a complete rear. I got one at our local yard out of an Explorer with 23,000 KMs on it and got it complete with rear discs, calipers, emergency cables and a drive shaft stub for $350.00. All it needed was mounting brackets added for the rear coilovers that I was running and a quick cleanup. Calipers etc were in excellent shape. Take your measuring tape with you and see what you think.

cheers

Steve

[Deleted User]

hemiEssex wrote:

My 2 cents for what it is worth. I have done alot of research into rear ends for old cars. When you go to the wrecking yard, take a look at the newer style 8.8 Ford rear ends from the ford Explorers. Lots came with 302s are plenty stout, lots of ratios available, come with posi, 5 on 4.5 bolt circle and can be got with or without rear disks. They are quite plentiful and can be got cheap. And oh yeah, they are the same width as the early broncos and granadas. Alot of rods are being built with them. 9 inch are great, but sometimes the cost of narrowing etc. can be alot more money than a complete rear. I got one at our local yard out of an Explorer with 23,000 KMs on it and got it complete with rear discs, calipers, emergency cables and a drive shaft stub for $350.00. All it needed was mounting brackets added for the rear coilovers that I was running and a quick cleanup. Calipers etc were in excellent shape. Take your measuring tape with you and see what you think.

cheers

Steve

STEVE,



THANKS FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION WHICH I'LL SHARE WITH MY BUILDER, WILL BE VISITING YARDS NEXT WEEK AND DIRECTING MY ATTENTION TO YOUR EXPERIENCE AND ADVISE.



THANKS AGAIN,



RAY