valve settings

Unknown

Happy new year, everyone,



I'm replacing a 262 with a 308 in my 1949 Commodore. What are the valve settings for the 308. I've seen one set of numbers: .012 and .019" but am not sure this is correct.



Tim

Ol racer

FYI

According to the '52 Hudson Service Manual I have All 6 cyl's are .010 Int & .012 Exh @ normal Temperature.



Personally, I set them all little looser, especially the Exh and prefer to hear a little tappet noise.

Clutchguy

Tim,this is open ended question??.It depends on what type of valves you are using-bi-metallic,stainless,or the O.E.type/.Next,who is doing the valve grind and what angles are you using?.Does it need valve seats?Are you replacing the valve guides?,You should do this on every job-But some don't.I have been setting my valves at .012 and .015,using bi-metallic and have clocked thousands of miles on them?.I also believe adjusting or at least checking the valve lash every 10 to 15K.Something else to do is a compression test,re-torque the cylinder head and most importantly,write all this down in your maintenence book for future reference.These engines,[Big 6],when done correctly,will last a long time!!! When I have been checking the valve lash after the 10-15K,I only find one or two that even need adjusted,and this will only be .001-.002 off.I find this totally exceptable!!! I sure there are others that might be setting theirs different and have a different opinion,but I'm just trying to assist with what seems to be working great for me.

Park_W

Clutch Guy, are those figures for engine cold, or hot?

7XPacemaker

I set my valves at .012 and .015 as well.....

Clutchguy

Those are cold settings with Bi-metallic valves

Geoff

There is only one way to ensure that your tappets are set to the correct clearance, and that is to do them HOT. That way it doesn't matter what material they are made of. The factory designated hot valve settings, that is the way to do them - end of story. Okay, it's more difficult, but you will k now for sure that they are correct.

Geoff.

[Deleted User]

Geoff - What do you mean by hot? Once around the block, idle for 1/2 hr., or 20 miles on the freeway at 60 MPH? Do you set them with the engine running? Norm

[Deleted User]

Run the engine for about 30 mins a good drive around the block will do it. Pull the covers wear gloves and adjust use Cliffords method so you can adjust in blocks then turn over for next block. And no, not while running.

[Deleted User]

wngnwhl wrote:

Happy new year, everyone,



I'm replacing a 262 with a 308 in my 1949 Commodore. What are the valve settings for the 308. I've seen one set of numbers: .012 and .019" but am not sure this is correct.



Tim

Do them the Walt way. Cold engine, intake 0.014, exhaust 0.017. I do all my engines that way. My Hornet with my completely rebuilt engine in 1998 left the shop with a new speedometer after a complete restoration. In 9 years driven 114,268 miles and only adjusted the valves every 20,000 miles and still going strong. Ask anyone in the NOR-CAL Chapter about my car. No matter what kid of valves you use as long as they are not NOS as today's gas will burn them out.

Geoff

herm wrote:

Geoff - What do you mean by hot? Once around the block, idle for 1/2 hr., or 20 miles on the freeway at 60 MPH? Do you set them with the engine running? Norm

Preferable after at least a 10 mile drive should be enough to get thing up to temp. The temp gauge may show the water up to temp, but the rest of the engine may still be relatively cool. You need the whole block, right up to normal, and the oil hot. If you can hear the tappets they are too wide. Remember, that with a wide tappet the valve is opening and later and closing sooner than designed, therefore this will affect efficiency and economy. The reason for hot setting is that with various valve materials you will get varying expansion. For instance, the original valves in the 202 Jet motor were of bi-metal construction - that is the heads andn top of the stems were non magnetic, and the stems where they bear in the guide were magnetic. Most replacement valves today are non-magnetic all the way through, and have a different expansion rate.

Geoff.

Geoff

Oh, sorry I forgot to say, no I don't set them with the engine running. I wire up the starter solenoid with a switch so I can bump the engine over a bit at a time, (with the coil unplugged). Start with No. 1 valve open, then bump the engine over and adjust the valves in firing order 153624, adjusting the oposite end each time to the two valves that are open.

Geoff.

hudsontech

wngnwhl wrote:

Happy new year, everyone,



I'm replacing a 262 with a 308 in my 1949 Commodore. What are the valve settings for the 308. I've seen one set of numbers: .012 and .019" but am not sure this is correct.



Tim

Go to my web site @ www.freewebs.com/hudsontech - then go to Tech Bulletins Vol. 1 - you want bulletin TS 77-12 and Cliffords method, bulletin TS 78-3.



Hudsonly,

Alex Burr

HudsonTech

Memphis, TN