Sheet metal

mrsbojigger
mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in Street Rods
This is just for you guys that modify your Hudsons. I have been working on the old girl (Lola) steadily this last month. This first thread is the inside sheet metal welded in place and primed. I used a sealer this time with the epoxy. I also did a mockup of the exhaust under the sheet metal before everything was welded in just to make sure that when it is lowered within 2 1/2" from the ground nothing will drag.
Peace,
Chaz

Comments

  • faustmb
    faustmb Senior Contributor
    Nice work!



    Matt
  • Are the front floors still a step down or even? And was it for clearance underneath? My glass's arent what thet used to be, want to make sure I am seeing it right. Bill
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Hi Bill,
    Good to hear from you!
    I took "artistic license" on the floor levels. First I had to look at all that was going on under the floor with the LS1 engine and trans in place. I then used a complete mock up of the ergonomics of a 2001 Taurus which we own and drive for the positions of seat, seat height, leg room both horizontally and vertically and steering room distance from dash. All that said, I then made the front floor at the same height as the area under the seat. This makes just a gentle upward slope forward to attach to the piece which is very close to the stock Hudson piece. Cheryl and myself then sat in the new bucket seat with the mockup of the steering wheel, swinging brake pedal and gas pedal in place. Seat was then moved forward for Cheryl and moved backwards for me as a test before completing the drivers area.
    In the rear passenger area, I dropped the floor down 2" for leg room comfort since your legs can't go forward as in the front area. It works out quite well since I also tested it by installing the rear seat and had two of us guys sit in it to check out the comfort.
    Boy, thats a lot of words explaining what was done but it took even longer to accomplish the task.
    Note: I always TRY to pre-build each part to see if it will all go together. Another thing I do in the process is make parts engineered so they can all come apart once the car is finished. That makes it easier when any mechanic work is done later. An example of this was last week Before I welded the front floor in place I had the my local Exhaust Man come to the house to see exactly how I wanted the finished exhaust to be installed. I then gave him a complete mock up and he then made the pieces and I installed them with the engine installed. No surprises when the car is nearing completion.
    Peace,
    Chaz
  • Yes, makes a lot of sense, but only because I am working in about the same area. I am running my exhaust out (side pipes) and have some clearance issues, but nothing I cant work around. Bill
  • essexcoupe3131
    essexcoupe3131 Senior Contributor
    Nice and tidy work I wish I could weld like that



    Mike
  • what gauge of steel did you use on the firewall and front floor boards?

    thanks mike
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Hi Mike,
    I used 18 ga. with a "paint grip" surface that I purchased from my local sheet metal shop for the firewall and driveshaft tunnel since this is a structrual part of the body. Note: This IS NOT galvanized sheet metal. Galvanized sheet metal is BAD stuff. You do not want to breath the toxic fumes from it. The paint grip finish prevents surface rust and helps so I don't have to immediately have to prime all of the surfaces, just the areas that were gound clean and welded.

    I used 19 ga. crs for the floors and trunk area. It needs to be either primed or "oiled" to cut down on surface rust but it is much easier to work with. I really prefer the 19 ga. since it is so easy to work with and is more compatible with the rest of the car's sheet metal body. Use either 18 or 19 gage, the choice is yours.

    Hope this helps! You may want to check out some of my previous posts of the progress on the floors. I think it is under the heading "morn all" by bluenash. Rambo's Ride is another excellent place for information on sheet metal construction on a stepdown.
    If you have any more questions let me know.
    Peace,
    Chaz
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    mrsbojigger wrote:
    Hi Mike,
    I used 18 ga. with a "paint grip" surface that I purchased from my local sheet metal shop for the firewall and driveshaft tunnel since this is a structrual part of the body. Note: This IS NOT galvanized sheet metal. Galvanized sheet metal is BAD stuff. You do not want to breath the toxic fumes from it. The paint grip finish prevents surface rust and helps so I don't have to immediately have to prime all of the surfaces, just the areas that were gound clean and welded.

    I used 19 ga. crs for the floors and trunk area. It needs to be either primed or "oiled" to cut down on surface rust but it is much easier to work with. I really prefer the 19 ga. since it is so easy to work with and is more compatible with the rest of the car's sheet metal body. Use either 18 or 19 gage, the choice is yours.

    Hope this helps! You may want to check out some of my previous posts of the progress on the floors. I think it is under the heading "morn all" by bluenash. Rambo's Ride is another excellent place for information on sheet metal construction on a stepdown.
    If you have any more questions let me know.
    Peace,
    Chaz

    I've been using 16ga. on my patch panels. Scrap stuff I bought years ago - the yard I got it from has since gone out of business :mad:

    :mad: As of last night my websites are down, I believe my NIC card gave up the ghost and hopefully I'll have time to address the problem tonight.
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Dan,
    You still have one of the best "how to" sites out there! I am always refering back to what you are doing.
    Cheers,
    Chaz
  • bent metal
    bent metal Senior Contributor
    Nice work.:)
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Hi Bent Metal,
    More progress! I now have the steering column secured with new brackets that I made for easy removal and the steering shaft in place in the engine compartment.
    Note the tubular control arms!
    Peace,
    Chaz
  • mrsbojigger wrote:
    Hi Bent Metal,

    More progress! I now have the steering column secured with new brackets that I made for easy removal and the steering shaft in place in the engine compartment.

    Peace,

    Chaz





    Hey Chaz..Could you please bring you Hudson to the 2009 Nationals finished or not ? Would sure like to see it in person. Ron
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    Ron P wrote:
    Hey Chaz..Could you please bring you Hudson to the 2009 Nationals finished or not ? Would sure like to see it in person. Ron



    Chaz-



    That's a grand idea. You bring the 3 window, I'll bring the 'vert. Wouldn't that be nice? We could convoy up together.
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    Chaz - you trying to jump start that thing? ;)
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    OH! There for a while I couldn't figure out what you meant about jump starting it but then I saw my battery behind the seat in the photo. The battery was for adjusting the seat to different positions to make sure of where I want to bolt it down.
    Taking it to the Nationals? That would take a miracle of miracles! Way to much work to do on it.
    Peace,
    Chaz
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    mrsbojigger wrote:
    OH! There for a while I couldn't figure out what you meant about jump starting it but then I saw my battery behind the seat in the photo. The battery was for adjusting the seat to different positions to make sure of where I want to bolt it down.
    Taking it to the Nationals? That would take a miracle of miracles! Way to much work to do on it.
    Peace,
    Chaz

    That's the point - these days its perfectly acceptable to take a build "in progress" to a show or meet.

    Too many neophyte car show viewers never get to see what it takes "under the covers" to build a quality ride like you're doing.

    Also, if you're so inclined, it can help build some excitement and possible media opportunities by showing a car mid-build - probably not what you care about but, still a viable reason to go.

    I very well may have to step up and do the same if I get some traction on my build(s)
  • rambos_ride wrote:
    That's the point - these days its perfectly acceptable to take a build "in progress" to a show or meet.



    Too many neophyte car show viewers never get to see what it takes "under the covers" to build a quality ride like you're doing.



    Also, if you're so inclined, it can help build some excitement and possible media opportunities by showing a car mid-build - probably not what you care about but, still a viable reason to go.



    I very well may have to step up and do the same if I get some traction on my build(s)



    Enough said then, I will see all of you in Pontiac for the Hudson Nationals in 2009..I am also going to try to trailer my very unrestored 1929 just for the 100 years of Hudson and 50 years for the HET club. Also 1929 was a great year for Hudson. Just think in 1929 Hudson was only 20 years old Hmmmm :)
  • Chaz, what steering column are you using?
  • mrsbojigger
    mrsbojigger Senior Contributor
    Hello Jay,
    Good to hear from you.
    The tilt steering column is from a large Grumman alumumn stepvan. One of those like UPS uses. The chassis is really of GMC origin. It was a perfect fit.
    Peace,
    Chaz
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