Worth keeping old engine?

timbersmith

Hey All,



I've got an engine from a '36 Terry that I am currently tearing down to salvage any useable pieces (at the very least I think the rods might still be workable - but I'll find out when I get to 'em), and I was wondering if it would be worth keeping the block, or selling it for scrap? I'm thinking that it would be more valuable as scrap since the #2 cylinder has a 1/4"-wide crack in the wall facing the lifters, not to mention fairly crusty combustion chambers from being out in the weather for god knows how long. I'd imagine it's possible to save the block with a sleeve - if there's nothing else drastically wrong with it, that is.



I haven't gotten too far into it yet, just got the head off so far (it's cracked, so I figure I'll fix it up with some JB Weld, clean it, paint it and hang it up as garage art) so no knowing what else is lurking under the crud and broken/weathered bolts. Course I oughta be able to get plenty of practice burning out broken bolts with a torch if it turns out to be scrap



Thanks,

Mike

[Deleted User]

Mike

Sounds like block and head are scrap. I like to keep about everything Terraplane. I would keep everything bolt on, I would keep crank, cam, rods pistons timing cover anything you might think you or someone else could use oil pan, even nuts and bolts , brackets you name it . they are not making anymore Hudsons! you might be surprised what someone is looking for. When you sell it for scrap its gone for good. Chuck G

PAULARGETYPE

Mike 36 Water Pump Is 36 Only And Hard To Find

Unknown

SAVE IT SAVE IT-- even if you have to give it away to get it out of your way,

30essex

Course I oughta be able to get plenty of practice burning out broken bolts with a torch if it turns out to be scrap

I just learned of an easy way to remove broken studs. You weld on a new nut with the same thread to what's left of the stud with a MIG welder. Turn the nut on as far as you can and weld it full. The heat should loosen the stud and you should be able to turn it out with a wrench.

[Deleted User]

I believe the valves are different than the 37 and up. Someone can correct me if I am wrong.

[Deleted User]

Nash 4088

Hudson could not make up their mind about stem diameter, you can just match valve guides to the valves you want to use as long as valve length is the same.

timbersmith

Well, most of the external accessories are either missing, or permanently fused together from the weather. It does still have the piece of the water pump that bolts to the engine, though, so I'll toss that in my Pile O' Parts. I'm pretty sure the valves have had it - the rust looks *really* bad on those.



37 Terraplane#2 wrote:

SAVE IT SAVE IT-- even if you have to give it away to get it out of your way,

Hey, if anyone wants to swing by and pick it up they can have it in it's current state (only things that have been removed are the water pump piece and head. Clutch is still attached and I'm sure that's still useable with some work), I'm outside of Cincinnati, OH. If not, well then I'll continue to tear it down and then practice on my bolt extraction. I've only got a torch and an el-cheapo wire feed (more comfortable with the torch, however), no true MIG, but I do know of several different ways to get 'em out. Was planning on trying out different styles of extraction.



Thanks all. You've pretty much confirmed what I already thought.

- Mike

Unknown

Here are some soaking tips (for weeks is even better) about freeing up the engine in case you are not familiar (PB Blaster melts rust, Molasses and water dissolves rust, kerosene/diesel fuel,,,,,,,,,,,,,:

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1.

I hate to correct my colleagues here Bill but this isn't a good idea. Transmission fluid is VERY hard to wash away and isn't the least combustible. So when you start your engine you'll end up with transmission fluid everywhere. That's why good mechanics use diesel and kerosene. Because it'll burn. Sorry Mark. I just wanted to save him some heavy cleaning <chuckle>.



Robert Stewart wrote: I have used the old standby "Liquid Wrench" with great success. Put it in, let it soak, repeat, break it loose by hand, beware of the liquid out the plug hole if you really soak it.



Ben Page wrote: Bill, Check your compression on each cylinder. It can be done manually with the crank handle or the starter. If one cylinder is down (possibly no 4.) then check with compressed air to see if the valve is stuck open. Done that? OK, now it's time to get out all that varnished fuel so we'll do it the easy way. Empty the crankcase completely and fill the engine with diesel (right to the top). Yep, I do mean the top. Let it sit for about a day. Put in your crank-handle and turn it over slowly. Go and have a coffee and a sandwich. 2 hours later come back and repeat the process. Get the picture. Do it until it gets free or a couple of days have gone by. Now drain all the diesel and flush your motor with kerosene. Repeat the turning over trick for about a day with kero. Fill the crankcase with oil again. Ensure your electrics are good and you have white spark from your coil and to your plugs. Ensure your plugs are all firing. (Out of the cylinders). Put them in. EXCEPT for the low compression cylinder. Fire up your motor and run it on three cylinders for about ten minutes at about 1000 revs. Shut it down. Put in the last plug. Fire it up again and run it. Be prepared for a lot of smoke from the diesel. It'll clean everything out and if the motor is in good order (as the guy said it was) then the old fuel will wash away, the valve will come free and the rings will free themselves up.



Oh. Forgot to say. Take off the carby, strip it down and thoroughly clean it. Preferably in an acid bath. Then put it on just when you wish to fire it up. If there's varnish on your pistons, then it's all the way through your blast jets and galleries in the carby. So you need to pull the gallery plugs and thoroughly clean that sucker. Ya dig? The worst than can happen is that you may bust a ring or snap the stem of a valve if it's REALLY, REALLY stuck. Then you'll have to strip the motor down anyway. This method is cheap and has worked lots of times in old motors. But you've got to take your time.



Maybe in between turn-overs you can sit and make a list of what you need to do?<chuckle> Always helps me pass some time<grin> Good luck buddy. If you've got any questions. You can mail me direct if you wish. Hope this helps. All the best

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2 Unsticking a FLATTY Engine



I just picked up a 50 flathead for my chopped 26 T coupe project. It`s complete but stuck. Any hints on un sticking it? I was advised to keep pouring kerosene in the plug holes and be patient. I will be completely rebuilding it.



Bubba: (Sep 19 1999 11:09PM)

RE: Stuck Engine

Everyone has their own favorite for penetrating oil. Mine is Marvel Mystery Oil, but others (including kerosene) are probably just as good because the real key is soak `em often and have more patience than a bull waiting for a heifer to come out of the barn.



RE: Stuck Engine

If it is stuck, you can bet the rings are stuck in the pistons and are not going to just come loose. Get the engine out, lay it on a big flat surface, pull all accessories, pan and oilpump. Squirt knock loose, not WD-40 and get the kind that has a petro. base, not the water type, around the bottom of the pistons. Use a large prybar and start working the flywheel back and forth with the starter teeth. when you can turn the crank all the way around, its free. You may also have to pull the timing gear off the cam, if the valves are stuck, they also will keep things from moving.



Lars Brandow (Sep 20 1999 8:05AM)

RE: Stuck Engine

Put the engine on a Engine stand, and turn the engine so you can fill the cylinder with your favorite oil (50% kerosine50% Diesel) leave for awhile maybe days. Then Jims way is one way to go. Or take a big piece of wood place it against the piston. And hit it with the biggest hammer you have :-)



JWL (Sep 20 1999 8:46AM)

RE: Stuck Engine

I agree to remove engine. I also agree to liberally soak with your favorite mixture. When trying to turn the flywheel, some of the rods will be in tension and some in compression positions depending on the direction of rotation . Observe for those in tension and use a block of wood about the same size as the bore and a good sized hammer to impact the top of those pistons. Next move the flywheel in the opposite direction so those rods which were in compression are now in a tension mode. Repeat the wood block, heavy hammer action on those in tension. Now go the other way with the flywheel and move back to the original pistons. etc. etc. At first the movement will be very small, but usually, with enough patience and effort you will get it to turn. I also agree with Jim`s suggestion to remove the cam gear so you know what you are working on. Good luck.



bill (Sep 20 1999 2:36PM)

RE: Stuck Engine

everytime you walk past it while soaking ping it...find a good solid spot where you wont break anything ang give her a good shot with a maul...the vibrations will do wonders...please do not hurt the puppy with a hole or crack in same perhaps several small pings in several places would be better...



billk (Sep 20 1999 7:08PM)

RE: Stuck Engine

I had a 50 merc motor that had been in a flood and then sat for a long time. Boy, was it stuck. I didn`t even hope of saving the pistons. If you can get a ridge reamer in the cylinders to get the ridge out, then try to break the pistons, assuming that they are aluminum. You might not even need to remove the ridge if you expect to break them out anyway. Take off a rod cap that is near the top of the stroke. Go at them from the bottom with a length of pipe or steel rod and the BIG hammer. Once they break you can work them out in pieces. Its no fun but it`ll work.



48 Al: 10/26/2000 - 1/1/1900 4:24:44 PM

RE: unsticking a flatty

Engine

I have used PB B`laster for years on stuck engines. this stuff Melts rust. have never used anything better. as in other posts, patience is very important if you dont want to do damage. Al



Frankie Flathead: 10/26/2000 - 1/1/1900 7:53:25 PM

RE: unsticking a flatty Engine

What about soaking the mill in a molasses/water mixture bath. This also dissolves rust like you wouldnt believe. Just strip oil pan/intake/timing cover and remove as many parts as possible. Do not leave any Aluminium parts on the engine. Then degrease the block as best as possible so that the mix is not contaminated. I had a very rusty 8BA that I left in a plastic tub of MOLASSES for 2 1/2 weeks. When removed and hosed off, the engine looked like it had just come out of the foundry and the water jackets were clean enough to eat off !! You can also use the molasses bath to derust other project components Finally, the used molasses are also environmentally friendly and will do plants good if poured into the garden!! What else could you ask for !



Sopp: 10/26/2000 - 1/1/1900 10:40:38 PM

RE: unsticking a flatty

Engine

What`s the mix ratio of mo` to H2O? This sounds like something I just might try.



Jim Marlett: 10/26/2000 - 1/1/1900 10:49:09 PM

RE: unsticking a flatty

Engine

After posting that rather large string of other people`s posts, it is worth mentioning that Red Hamilton of Red`s Headers soaks his flatheads in a barrel of #2(?) diesel before disassembly. I`m sorry I don`t know anything about diesel fuel, but #2 seems to be what I recall. That trick is a little bit beyond my tinkering capacity, but if you`ve got the space and can deal with the waste...



Frankie Flathead: 10/27/2000 - 1/1/1900 4:16:24 AM

RE: unsticking a flatty

Engine

Sopp, The ratio I used is 1 part molasses to 4 parts water. Pour in your molasses first, then pour in hot water to dissolve the thick syrupy molasses. If ya got seriously rusted stuff, make the mix a little stronger ie: 3 parts water. Lastly, I Just emptied my drum after using this stuff for over a year, so it works for quite a while!! After a while, it also has a tendency to get a bit whiffy so stash the drum/barrel in a corner of the backyard away from the back door!!!

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Personally, I'd get a large drum or tank and after removing all of the easily removable parts from the engine, including oil pan and spark plugs, valve covers, manifolds, timing chain cover, water pump, etc, I'd submerce the entire engine in diesel fuel (with one can of PB Blaster) & lv it for a month (covered). Also, put a small pump inside the fluid to keep it circulating slowly. And when you uncover it, I suspect that you will have a very clean engine that is ready for careful disassembly. Then pressure water-wash the parts individually and dry; coat parts with Marvel Mystery Oil for storage, and save all in case you have the room.

tigermoth

i have a similar situation only i have 2 blocks. i have decided one is going to the scrapper, but before i do i will offer it in the WTN...as free to a good home. regards, tom