kingpins?

Unknown

what is the process for changing the kingpins? any advice? im just trying to remove a set of spindles from an extra axle and see what i can do for adapting a hydraulic brakes. i knocked out the retaining pin on one side, the other side wont budge. can they be drilled out? then what is the best way to remove the actual kingpin? it looks like they have a grease cap on them.

Geoff

Don't try and drill them out, you will ruin the hole in the stub axle most likely. Use a heavy block behind the axle ( Like a 10 lb hammer, or an anvil, to absorb the shock, and use a heavy punch and hammer on the end of the cotter pin, it should come loose. Drill a 1/4" hole in the plug over the top bushing, and lever the plug out with a punch or similar, then drive the king pin downwards, again with a heavy hammer. It may be frozen in there, so a bit of heat and lots of penetrating oil may be necessary. Don't mess around with an inadequate hammer, you will only damage things. Use a heavy punch and hammer, and block under the stub axle to absorb the shock. Good luck

Geoff.

Unknown

ok. i was hoping not to have drill them out. the one came out pretty easy i was pounding on it with a 4# beater and a punch. after about 12 whacks on the other one and the only thing happening was my hand started tingling from holding the punch, i figured i better find out if i am at least on the right track.

barrysweet52

Careful use of a gas torch to break the seal and to make things expand will make the job quicker and easier. Regards, Barry

Unknown

well, i pounded and pounded and pounded with a 4lb beater, then gave it a few wacks with an 8lb, then i tried heat and a few more wacks with the 4lb beater. gave it to my bud to try and push out the retaining pin with a press. no good. that sucker is so stuck its not even funny. how can such a small pin be stuck so good. cant wait to see how stuck the kingpins are.

Geoff

You are sure that you are hitting it on the correct side???? It could be that you are trying to drive it further in to the wedge. The tapered cotter can be put in from the front , or the rear, so just because you drove one side out one way, doesn't necessarily mean the other side has been put int he same way. Just a thought.

Geoff.

Unknown

so they are tapered?it had a head on it which i cut off because it wasnt coming out the way it got installed. i tried smashing it out both ways, it did not even budge.

Geoff

The cotter pin is like one on a bicycle crank, is straight, but with a tapered flat face on one side, so that as you drive it in the taper goes up against the flat surface ground on the stem of the king pin. You may need to grind the ends off to see what is going on, as with all the bashing you are bound to have distorted things somewhat.

ernie28

I had a similar thing recently with a pin and no amount of the club hammer persuasion helped. The cotter pins on this car were strange in the fact they were not held in place with a nut. There was not even a thread for a nut - they must have just been hammered home and left at that. I sought advise from another local vintage friend and we did end up drilling the pin with a drill half the diameter of the pin and ensuring the hole away from the kingpin side. Whether the heat generated from the drilling did the job or the resultant hole in the pin released pressure I am not sure but after the hole was drilled a swift hit with the club hammer and out it flew. Not a scar was left on the kingpin or the cotter pin hole.

Needless to say the cotter pins were relaced with ones that were secured with a nut!



Good luck



Alistair, NZ

Geoff

The original cotters did not have nuts, just hammered home, and the ends virtually flush with the outside. They are referred in the parts book as (Pivot pin locks". The ones with nuts are bicyle crank pins.

ernie28

Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:

The original cotters did not have nuts, just hammered home, and the ends virtually flush with the outside. They are referred in the parts book as (Pivot pin locks". The ones with nuts are bicyle crank pins.

Geoff, as I have said to you before, you learn something every day!

What do you use these days? Do you have a source for pivot pin locks for authenticity?



Alistair

barrysweet52

The only source for the cotter pins are from other axles. Im surprised that heat didnt work. You have to heat the stub axle a long time to expand the hole, not heat the cotter pin. Anyway Im sure we have all been there and muttered streams of ###. You are lucky you are just pulling it to bits to consider upgrading your brakes, I think you said. When I did mine recently (1937T) I decided not to make and insert the cork round seals. I also had wear between the axle eyes and had to use shims to reduce the verticle movement of the stub axle to .005". Good luck, Barry

Unknown

its a spare axle, im just messing around with some ideas i have. well that and the fact that the pins on the axle that is in the car are real sloppy.

Geoff

ernie28 wrote:

Geoff, as I have said to you before, you learn something every day!

What do you use these days? Do you have a source for pivot pin locks for authenticity?



Alistair

I am still using the originals! However, there's nothing with the bike shop variety, although the taper is bit coarser.