Stepdown Fuel Tank Restoration

hudsonguy

I'm in the process of restoring my '49 stepdown fuel tank, and was wondering about the hole I have to cut in order to access the inner baffle. I've seen 'restored' tanks before, and it seems to me the hole size is roughly 6" diameter, and it's about in the center of the top surface of the tank? Is this the proper size/placement of the hole in order to access the inner baffles?



Also, I remember one members experience with trimming another inner baffle near the filler tube, which will allow a greater flow when re-fueling, which is another problem I have now. Does anyone remember the specifics on this fix?



As always, thanks for the help,



Doug

Uncle Josh

You can access the driver's side of the tank pretty well from the 'sender' hole.



I Cut a 4 inch hole in the top of the passenger side mainly so I could get to what was left of the screen around the pickup tube. The screen vestage was holding and mixing the chemicals I was using, making a goo that would surely have plugged up the pickup tube.



After cleaning with putty knife, wire brush etc, I soldered the patch back on the top. On another one, I JBWelded the top back on. No problems with either one in several years.



The baffle has generous corner cuts in it and is not the cause of slow re-fueling. I rather suspect the air vent tube is plugged up.

SuperDave

Doug,

I was the one that reported the slow refueling problem, but it was with aftermarket tanks. The center baffle didn't have enough relief at the corners to allow the fuel to flow into the left side and let the air flow out.The original tank is properly baffled as Uncle Josh states. Make sure your vent tube isn't kinked somewhere or one of those pesky mud dobbers hasn't taken up residence. I noticed here in Florida the gas pumps at some of the new "Murphey's" at Walmarts have a very fast flow. The pumps are labled as fastest flowing pumps. Nothing I drive likes that fast of a flow.I have to hold the nozzle and nurse them.

Have a great Hudson Day,

Dave W.

Good Luck, Dave

hudsonguy

Hmmm, interesting...I learn something Hudson every day, I think. Vent tube is probably plugged.



I thought my vent tube was clear, but then I thought the tank that's in the car now would last a little longer than it has before leaking. This tank was a 'restored' one that I bought at the 2003 Nationals. It had been pretty well JB welded, but I was assured it would last. I bought it on the last day of the show, and I did get it for a decent price, because the seller didn't want to haul it home again. Anyway, it's developed several leaks over the last 12 months. The latest one is a pinhole in the very bottom. With a 5K road trip to the West coast coming up next month, I think the time to restore my original tank has come.



After some initial cleaning on my old tank last night, I could easily detect where the internal baffle is, which will locate my 'rear' access hole. I'll probably go the solder route like you Uncle Josh, for attaching a 'hole cover'.



I'm also planning on using POR-15 cleaning, etching, painting, and sealing products, which have worked well for me on the rest of the car.



As far as the de-rusting process, I'll probably sandlblast the outside, and I'm considering using a new product available locally that's made from the sugar beet refining process. It's called Rustbeeter. It claims to be a gentle, effective rust remover. I'm probably going to try it on the inside of the tank. I'll let the forum know if it works or not.



Thanks for all the sage advice.

Hudsonly,

Doug