Need advice on window chrome removal

Richie

Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to remove the chrome around the side windows on a 50 Pacemaker 2 door brougham. I see a little slide piece above the window that covers the two ends where they come together. I slid the little slide piece to the side and can see a gap, but with a very light prying motion neither piece seems to move. I don't want to damage any of the chrome, is this a "leave it alone" thing? The rear window chrome moulding came off easily, thought the rest would also. Thanks in advance for any help. Richie.

hdsn49

You have to very gently pry the chrome away from the window frame. Once you get it started it should go easier. Don't force it and bent it out of shape. The factory used some kind of sealer when they put it on. I cleaned all of that out of the stainless before I reinstalled it.



The back window comes out easier but remember you have to install it when you install the rear window with a new window gasket. it is actually much harder to install than the side window stainless.



Do the front doors first. The stainless on them can be replaced if you screw up. I have several extra pieces available. Be very careful on the back side windows, those would be hard to replace

[Deleted User]

Hi Richie,

You will want to work on removing these from the inside of the window opening after removing the window channel, and vent windows on the fronts. If you try to work from the outside, you run a very great risk of springing the molding so that it won't grip tight when you reinstall it. Use a flat screw driver or similar pry tool, start at the split seam. Place the blade of pry tool against the edge of the inner flange of the molding, and carefully lever the edge of the trim down away from the window opening. Work it a little at a time as you progress toward the corner radius. The old sealer will probably have it stuck on there pretty good. Be patient as you don't want to overdo it, which could spring the radius in the corners. and effect the fit on reinstalling. You'll notice the inner flange is thinner at the corner radius which helps it to clear the opening as it is removed. Once at the corner work your way down the side, then go back to the seam, and repeat for the other half of the molding. Once the top and sides are clear, then work the bottom edge up from one end to the other until it's out. The small filler piece for the seam just snaps in place, and have found it easy to pop it off by again working from the inside of the opening. The benefit of this is you keep from scratching the polished surface of the molding which can happen if you slide it off to one side. The windshield stainless moldings can be removed by the same method as the side windows. Start with the center division bar, then work your way around the opening. There is typically a lot of sealer under these for obvious reasons, and you have to be extra careful not to bend or spring the molding as it is such a thin profile. A replacement sealer that works great for under all of the window moldings, as well as sealing the rubber windshield gasket to the opening is 3M Bedding and Glazing Compound. It can be purchased at body shop paint suppliers, comes in a caulking tube, stays soft and pliable. This is a big plus if you would ever have to replace a windshield, you won't tear up the rubber gasket getting it out. Also works great applied under body molding clips to keep water from getting trapped, and causing future rust! Hope this helps you out.



Hudsonly,

Dave Bean

Richie

hdsn49 wrote:

You have to very gently pry the chrome away from the window frame. Once you get it started it should go easier. Don't force it and bent it out of shape. The factory used some kind of sealer when they put it on. I cleaned all of that out of the stainless before I reinstalled it.



The back window comes out easier but remember you have to install it when you install the rear window with a new window gasket. it is actually much harder to install than the side window stainless.



Do the front doors first. The stainless on them can be replaced if you screw up. I have several extra pieces available. Be very careful on the back side windows, those would be hard to replace

hdsn49, thank you very much for your advice, I will be very careful, I know how hard it is to replace these things. I will start on the front doors. Richie.

Richie

Essex4 wrote:

Hi Richie,

You will want to work on removing these from the inside of the window opening after removing the window channel, and vent windows on the fronts. If you try to work from the outside, you run a very great risk of springing the molding so that it won't grip tight when you reinstall it. Use a flat screw driver or similar pry tool, start at the split seam. Place the blade of pry tool against the edge of the inner flange of the molding, and carefully lever the edge of the trim down away from the window opening. Work it a little at a time as you progress toward the corner radius. The old sealer will probably have it stuck on there pretty good. Be patient as you don't want to overdo it, which could spring the radius in the corners. and effect the fit on reinstalling. You'll notice the inner flange is thinner at the corner radius which helps it to clear the opening as it is removed. Once at the corner work your way down the side, then go back to the seam, and repeat for the other half of the molding. Once the top and sides are clear, then work the bottom edge up from one end to the other until it's out. The small filler piece for the seam just snaps in place, and have found it easy to pop it off by again working from the inside of the opening. The benefit of this is you keep from scratching the polished surface of the molding which can happen if you slide it off to one side. The windshield stainless moldings can be removed by the same method as the side windows. Start with the center division bar, then work your way around the opening. There is typically a lot of sealer under these for obvious reasons, and you have to be extra careful not to bend or spring the molding as it is such a thin profile. A replacement sealer that works great for under all of the window moldings, as well as sealing the rubber windshield gasket to the opening is 3M Bedding and Glazing Compound. It can be purchased at body shop paint suppliers, comes in a caulking tube, stays soft and pliable. This is a big plus if you would ever have to replace a windshield, you won't tear up the rubber gasket getting it out. Also works great applied under body molding clips to keep water from getting trapped, and causing future rust! Hope this helps you out.



Hudsonly,

Dave Bean

Dave, thank you very much also, a lot of helpful information. Between you and hdsn49 I believe I'll give it a try. It sounds like being patient is the key. I already have some 3M Glazing Compound. Thanks again, I appreciate your help. Richie

Uncle Josh

By the way, if you're not going to remove/replace the rear window, and have the old rubber there, the string method of getting the rubber back in the stainless (chrome) surround ain't gonna work probably. I wound up cutting the rubber lip off and potted and sealed the stainless back on with a calk gun loaded with 'Seal All' in transluscent. Goes on white and dries almost clear. Been on there for several years now and several thousand miles.

Richie

Uncle Josh wrote:

By the way, if you're not going to remove/replace the rear window, and have the old rubber there, the string method of getting the rubber back in the stainless (chrome) surround ain't gonna work probably. I wound up cutting the rubber lip off and potted and sealed the stainless back on with a calk gun loaded with 'Seal All' in transluscent. Goes on white and dries almost clear. Been on there for several years now and several thousand miles.

Thanks Uncle Josh, I am planning on leaving the glass and rubber seal in the car, just removing all the stainless mouldings. I have been calling the stainless, "chrome", I know better !! I will try the string thing first and see what happens. The rubber seal is still plyable, so it may work. I may end up doing what you said. Thanks for that info. Richie.