Bad lifter

harry54

I have what seems to be a bad lifter noise in my 54 hornet. What would be the procedure to fix this ?

1. Is it possible to fix without taking out the engine ?

2. Do I need to remove the manifold and inner fender to get at valve covers ?

3. Is it possible that a valve spring collapsed ?

4. Can I replace the lifter and spring without removing the head ?

Ol racer

Harry,

I would pull the RF wheel & inner panel then remove the valve covers to inspect the source of noise. You can use mirror and a pc of heater hose to diagnose... It could be anything from a tappet out of adjustment to a failed part. Your question answers are...

#1 Yes but depending on root cause

#2 It would be easier

#3 unlikely

#4 No

Geoff

harry54 wrote:

I have what seems to be a bad lifter noise in my 54 hornet. What would be the procedure to fix this ?

1. Is it possible to fix without taking out the engine ?

2. Do I need to remove the manifold and inner fender to get at valve covers ?

3. Is it possible that a valve spring collapsed ?

4. Can I replace the lifter and spring without removing the head ?

1. Yes

2. No

3. Very doubtful

4. No.

You probably only need to adjust the tappet.

Clutchguy

Depends on the root cause says it all.Did this problem progressively get worst or did it all the sudden start making a noise?.How many miles has it been since you started noticing this noise?.Does the engine miss out.Does the noise get more pronounced as the engine warms up?Does the engine still have a mechanical fuel pump on it?.You might take the fan belt off,use a stethoscope,start the engine,listen to this noise.You will only be able to run the engine with no belt a very short time but it may help to isolate the noise.

harry54

The noise gets more pronounced as the engine warms up.

It is one of the front two cylinders.

When you take the plug wire off while it's running, noise stays the same.

Reminded me of my old family 67 chevy 327 that had a bad lifter and rocker. type noise.

Noise is rythmic with engine speed.

Noise showed up after 30,000 miles.( 100 miles ago).



Engine History

1. already 40 over .

2. #6 piston has been changed out because of cylinder slap.

3. valves were out of adjustment 30,000 miles ago. When I got it, I had them all adjusted. Prior to adjustment, back two cylinders were running 60 and 80 psi . Post adjustment , they were 100psi across the board.

4.Valves were already ground a few times from the looks of them.

5. Post engine adjustments, Car ran fairly strong except for idle. Idle has alway been a little rough.

Ol racer

FYI

If have a Stethescope good if not, take aprx 3ft length of heater hose and place one end against your ear and the other against the motor moving it around the engine while idling should pin-point the noise. (Watch the fan & belt)

Geoff

Going from what you describe, it sounds like a sticking exhaust valve. A loose tappet will be constant, and tend to quieten as the engine warms up. Could be a build up of varnish or ash on the stem, causing it to stick in the guide, hence the noise, as it closes fairly slow, it is still coming down when the lifter is on the way up.

Geoff.

Unknown

harry54 wrote:

I have what seems to be a bad lifter noise in my 54 hornet. What would be the procedure to fix this ?

1. Is it possible to fix without taking out the engine ?

2. Do I need to remove the manifold and inner fender to get at valve covers ?

3. Is it possible that a valve spring collapsed ?

4. Can I replace the lifter and spring without removing the head ?

If you have a broken spring you may be able to replace it without removeing the head by using compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valve closed and using a spring compressor. You can buy a spark plug fitting that you can put a hose on.



You have to remove the cam to replace the lifters. I believe you might be able to do this in the car without removing the head if you can secure all 12 lifters and take the oil pan off. Doesn't sound like it would be fun.

Ol racer

fyi

If you trace the problem to a lifter you can pull the cam out in the car by holding the Lifters up with the 'Spring Clamp' type of household clothes pins. I have done it several times.

[Deleted User]

You also have to remove the radiator.

Unknown

51hornetA wrote:

You also have to remove the radiator.

And while thats all a lot to do to replace a lifter, it's still better than pulling the engine.

Ol racer

I agree ....

Geoff

You can however, replace a valve spring without removing the head on all Essex, Terraplane, Hudson 8, and 6's up to 1947. Procedure is to hold the spring up with a lifter and remove the retainer and washer. Loosen the tappet clamp nut and remove the tappet screw. Remove the valve spring lifter, and getting in between the coils of the spring, lever the valve up with a screwdriver until it jams up against the cylinder head, and you can then "unwind" the spring from around the stem and down past the lifter. Usually you would only want to do this if the spring was broken of course. YOu then similarly wind the new spring up around the valve stem, and lever the valve back down, then re-instalal the washer and retainer by using the valve spring compressor.

Geoff.

Unknown

Ken U-Tx wrote:

hudsondad wrote: »

If you have a broken spring you may be able to replace it without removeing the head by using compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valve closed and using a spring compressor. You can buy a spark plug fitting that you can put a hose on.



The above procedure works in overhead valve pushrod type engines, but not in flatheads, as the valve stem would trap the spring in the valve chamber. Head has to come off, and valve pulled up so it doesn't keep spring from being pulled out of valve chamber on side of block.

I've never done this on a hudson with the head on, but once you released the retainer, by taking the air pressure off, you could push the valve upward until it touches the head. Would that be enough clearance to remove the spring? I would think you'd have about an inch of clearance between the bottom of the valve and the top of the lifter with the lifter down and adjustment lowered. ???