Best Practices - TwinH Rehab - Other...

rambos_ride

I tell you- I have this nice shop out there and haven't stepped foot inside to work on a car in 4 months :mad:

Work has been virtually non-stop since September 07, I think I am finally going to see some daylight after this weekend.

At least during that time I think I've finally amassed enough parts and materials to make a serious run at the getting the 50 Super going for this summer and I'm "borrowing" my buddies Snap-On glass bead cabinet this weekend ~ I've already warned him that once the blaster makes it into my shop he might need to sell it to me to get anything back for it

Q. What kind of tolerances are acceptable for the mating surfaces of the intake and exhaust to the block? I wasn't sure because of the design if it was a good idea to have them surfaced?

SuperDave

Dan,

Unless there has been some significant damge due to prying with a sharp instrument.. no need to surface. Hudson did a pretty good job of providing enough clamping force to keep the manifolds in contact with the block. At least that's been my experience. The last OH gasket set I got from Dale Cooper had two different gaskets and I used the thicker one..just to be sure. Now get out there and "git 'er done".

Dave w fl

rambos_ride

SuperDave wrote:

Dan,
Unless there has been some significant damge due to prying with a sharp instrument.. no need to surface. Hudson did a pretty good job of providing enough clamping force to keep the manifolds in contact with the block. At least that's been my experience. The last OH gasket set I got from Dale Cooper had two different gaskets and I used the thicker one..just to be sure. Now get out there and "git 'er done".
Dave w fl

Thanks Dave, not kidding on "git 'er done"

Might this finally be the year I actually drive a Hudson? :eek:

I've got all the stuff now, for the twinh rebuild ~ I got my Pridemore front disk brake kit just last week (the hubs look awesome btw), and I've got all the primer, sanding blocks, lead, and other materials to freshen up the body once the mechanicals are completed.

The only thing I haven't pulled the trigger on is the Automatic Transmission Adapter - once I get going on the mechanicals, I'll give the Supermatic a fair chance (maybe I just need to do some adjustments or something?) and check some things out before I commit to going with the automatic.

But if I do decide to go with the Automatic, I have a TH400 sitting on the floor of the shop with a fresh $2k rebuild.

Alas, the 50 Super won't have heat, air conditioning, or tunes - but I still can't wait to get it down the road under it's own power!

RL Chilton

rambos_ride wrote:

Alas, the 50 Super won't have heat, air conditioning, or tunes - but I still can't wait to get it down the road under it's own power!

Like I tell everyone . . . there's nothin' like it in the world!!

Richie

rambos_ride wrote:

Thanks Dave, not kidding on "git 'er done"



Might this finally be the year I actually drive a Hudson? :eek:



I've got all the stuff now, for the twinh rebuild ~ I got my Pridemore front disk brake kit just last week (the hubs look awesome btw), and I've got all the primer, sanding blocks, lead, and other materials to freshen up the body once the mechanicals are completed.



The only thing I haven't pulled the trigger on is the Automatic Transmission Adapter - once I get going on the mechanicals, I'll give the Supermatic a fair chance (maybe I just need to do some adjustments or something?) and check some things out before I commit to going with the automatic.



But if I do decide to go with the Automatic, I have a TH400 sitting on the floor of the shop with a fresh $2k rebuild.



Alas, the 50 Super won't have heat, air conditioning, or tunes - but I still can't wait to get it down the road under it's own power!

Dan, I installed one of Rick Pridemore's disc brake kits a few weeks ago and can tell you that it is a snap to install. One of the easiest improvements I have done. What a difference, I have several old cars with conventional brakes and will probably convert them in the near future. The conventional brakes on the 50 Pacemaker worked pretty good but I plan on driving it all over the states and wanted to be confident about stopping at highway speeds if necessary. The car stops on a dime, I'm very happy with the result. Richie.

rambos_ride

Richie wrote:

Dan, I installed one of Rick Pridemore's disc brake kits a few weeks ago and can tell you that it is a snap to install. One of the easiest improvements I have done. What a difference, I have several old cars with conventional brakes and will probably convert them in the near future. The conventional brakes on the 50 Pacemaker worked pretty good but I plan on driving it all over the states and wanted to be confident about stopping at highway speeds if necessary. The car stops on a dime, I'm very happy with the result. Richie.

Richie, thanks for the feeback on the Pridemore install and results. I too, want to drive (both cars) plenty of miles and wanted more reliable stopping power - plus the benefit of walking into a parts store to buy pads.

It does look to be a pretty straight forward installation - which kit did you get - ie. did you use your original Hudson wheels or a later model wheel made for a disc brake?

I got the kits with the caliper mounting plates that change the position of the caliper mount to work with a later model wheel - just curious which direction you went?

mars55

rambos_ride wrote:

plus the benefit of walking into a parts store to buy pads.

Just for completeness, you can walk into a parts store and buy brake shores for 1948-1954 Hudson stepdown.



NAPA in order of increasing cost.



LWB front: TS263 (Bonded), SS263 (Riveted), AE263R (Rayloc) and SD263R (Metallic)



LWB rear and SWB front and rear: TS55 (Bonded).



Raybestos in order of increasing cost.



LWB front: 263RP (Bonded), 263RR (Riveted) and 263PG (Riveted).



LWB rear and SWB front and rear: 55RP (Bonded), 55RR (Riveted) and 55PG (Riveted).

rambos_ride

mars55 wrote:

Just for completeness, you can walk into a parts store and buy brake shores for 1948-1954 Hudson stepdown.

NAPA in order of increasing cost.

LWB front: TS263 (Bonded), SS263 (Riveted), AE263R (Rayloc) and SD263R (Metallic)

LWB rear and SWB front and rear: TS55 (Bonded).

Raybestos in order of increasing cost.

LWB front: 263RP (Bonded), 263RR (Riveted) and 263PG (Riveted).

LWB rear and SWB front and rear: 55RP (Bonded), 55RR (Riveted) and 55PG (Riveted).

Of course we're not trying to say the brake shoes aren't available - but there is no one reproducing the drums and they can only be turned so much before a competent mechanic won't even put one on the lathe.

Then theres the huge matter of safety, if my rear drums are good and within tolerances I have no problem running drum brakes ~ but I won't run old drum brakes that are suspect to keep a car stock - especially on either of my cars - stopping is almost as important as starting - not a place to cut corners in my book.

Richie

rambos_ride wrote:

Richie, thanks for the feeback on the Pridemore install and results. I too, want to drive (both cars) plenty of miles and wanted more reliable stopping power - plus the benefit of walking into a parts store to buy pads.



It does look to be a pretty straight forward installation - which kit did you get - ie. did you use your original Hudson wheels or a later model wheel made for a disc brake?



I got the kits with the caliper mounting plates that change the position of the caliper mount to work with a later model wheel - just curious which direction you went?

Dan, I sent you a PM. Richie.

mars55

rambos_ride wrote:

Of course we're not trying to say the brake shoes aren't available - but there is no one reproducing the drums and they can only be turned so much before a competent mechanic won't even put one on the lathe.



Then theres the huge matter of safety, if my rear drums are good and within tolerances I have no problem running drum brakes ~ but I won't run old drum brakes that are suspect to keep a car stock - especially on either of my cars - stopping is almost as important as starting - not a place to cut corners in my book.

The reason I brought it up was that alot people read this forum and especially people new to Hudsons might think parts aren't avaliable for their Hudson and start panicing. I agree that you should not use worn out brake drums. The reason that brake drums are not being reproduce is that the supply of good orginal brake drums has been adequate. I suspect that Bill Albright has brake drums piled to roof. There are many reasons to install disk brakes, but parts avaliably isn't one them.