Turn Signal Unit Needed

[Deleted User]

I am in need of a turn signal unit that does not use the brake light switch.



I am going to install this unit with the Ez2Wire harness I am ordering. I will use the plugs that come with the harness kit to connect it.



It will need to have a Hazard/Flasher switch included.



I currently have a 7-wire turn signal unit if you know how it re-wire it to work with the simpler unit.

Unknown

please clarify a bit. If you are only useing one light on each side you must incorporate the brake light or it will not work. You must have 2 seperate lights on each side to work the brake and turn signal independantly. Bud

[Deleted User]

Sorry.....Yes, I have separate bulbs for turns signals front and back. I added an extra yoke, socket and bulb to the back end. The front already had the twin element sockets.



The Ez2Wire harness has the 4-wire turn signal wiring built-in. I just need a simple switch (like Truck-Lite 902 or 903) that will also have a hazard switch and work with 6-volt.

Unknown

OK, but if you are useing the 2 bulbs in the same tail light , useing 2 tail light bulbs will not give you a turn signal effect, one must be brighter than the other. I think I would have opted for installing just one dual element socket which it should have allready had to acomadate brake and tail light. If it only had a one wire socket someone changed it and it is wrong, and your wireing then would be correct according to the wire color scheme that came with the turn signal unit

Jon B

I'm not sure how much you know, so if you were already aware of this, forgive me!



Hudson made two types of "factory" switches: one designed for the single taillight lamp (brighter filament is for the brake and turnsignal) and one for the dual lamps (one lamp is dedicated only to turn signal). You apparently now have the one for the single taillight (7-wire). By contacting some of the normal Hudson parts vendors you should be able to find the other type. It will not, of course, have the emergency flasher. If you require authenticity you might be able to rig a separate flasher switch under the dash and still retain the "factory" turn signal switch on your steering column.

[Deleted User]

Thanks, guys for the quick responses.



The dealer added a 7-wire signal unit, using the brake light. Once I got the car, the switch on the column was bad and could not be repaired. So

I got a new switch.



I am the person who added the extra socket in the tail light housing for a separate turn signal/hazard unit. I still have dual element bulbs in the (brake/parking) socket.



I was going over the wiring harness directions and was trying to get around the brake light setup. On a bench test, the bulbs work together and there is a good amount of difference using the brake light and turn signal as different bulbs.



I like the simpler circuit setup for future trouble shooting.



But if it is not possible, OK. I go back to what was there before.

Jon B

I'm not acquainted with this "EZ Wire" harness, so I'm offering advice "blind", here!



If you have a true, separate "emergency flasher" switch, my feeling is that it actually separates the left and right circuits, so that each is turned on SEPARATELY when you pull the knob to start the flasher. If all four wires (left front and rear, right front and rear) were wired together, then even when the flasher was off, and you clicked the left turn signal, all four lights would flash! So the two circuits -- "left" and "right" --- must always be separate.



Let's disregard the four-way flasher and that extra socket you attached to the taillights, for the moment. You should be able to hook up and wire an original 7-wire Hudson turnsignal to the front and rear sockets (an operative turnsignal switch can be found, no doubt, on Ebay or by phoning a few of the normal Hudson vendors found in the WTN).



Okay, now you have turnsignals front and rear, but you want flashers as well.



I am assuming this emergency flasher you have is separate, perhaps under-dash mounted, and is not part of some sort of add-on NAPA or Pep Boys turn signal / flasher combo switch that you clamp to the steering column.



The emergency flasher switch SHOULD split the four wires (left front & rear; right front and rear) going to the lamps, into TWO circuits, turning both circuits on at the same time but independent of one another. (If it didn't do this, they'd end up wired together, which would result in all four lights coming on no matter which way you turned the turnsignal lever!) So it would stand to reason that you could run a separate wire from the turn signal terminal block (under the dash) to the flasher switch -- one wire from the two LEFT lamps (front and back), and one wire from the two RIGHT lamps.



The wiring harness doesn't matter at this point. The actual emergency flasher wires only travel a short distance under the dash, from turnsignal terminal block to the emergency flasher switch!



Now you have the original single bulb in the left and right side, functioning not only as a tail and stoplight, but as the left turnsignal AND emergency flasher!



What about that extra socket you just rigged up on each side? Well, you can opt to use that as well, and have even brighter stoplights, turn signals, and emergency flashers! Just wire the extra socket to the brakelight circuit of its mate. Now BOTH lights will go on when you hit the brakes / make a turn / pull the flasher switch!

[Deleted User]

The bad 7-wire unit I pulled had a Hazard switch in it. The new 7-wire unit I got does not (did not install it either - still on shelf).



But I do understand what your are saying above.



I am just trying to create a "modern" wired light inside the two bulb capable taillight assembly. I was looking at a "902" 4-wire but that does not get me the Hazard option.



I am still willing to go back to the OEM style if needed.



Let me get the harness actually in my posession and I'll come back to this. Short term I'll test with a three position switch.

Unknown

If you can't find the other type signal switch with the flasher your simplest set up is as Jon said. Going back to the original is by far the best choice. Then all you have to add is a hot wire with an on/off switch to another flasher and from there to your turn signals on each side front and rear. Bud

Jon B

No matter what you do, here are what turnsignal wires you will need (in your harness) . One wire from each, leading back to the column-mounted turnsignal switch (or it's terminal block located under the dash:



1. Left front signal light (separate from parking light wire)



2. Right front signal light (separate from parking light wire)



3. Left brakelight (this wire serves brake & signal function and there will be a separate harness or shielded wire leading back to the taillight already)



4. Right brakelight (see similar note for #3, above)



The following wires are so short they probably won't need to be part of any harness:



5. Wire from steering column switch to one post on flasher (other post of flasher is wired to your ignition lock).



6. Wire to indicator light on dash (this may come from your column switch OR may wire to the third post of the flasher itself)



7. Wire from column switch to stoplight switch terminal (other stoplight terminal goes to the battery). This MIGHT be included in your EZ Wire harness but chances are, not (since it's a one-size-fits-all).



That's seven wires, more or less.



To connect the flasher -- no matter what kind of emergency flasher switch you buy -- you will not have to have additional wires in your harness because you are only traveling maybe 2 feet maximum, from column switch to an emergency flash unit under the dash. Zero feet, if the emergency flasher button's in the after-market column switch.



Now, if you manage to glom onto an original Hudson "factory" column switch, complete, you will have a very neat unit that practically disappears (unlike the large, garish, chrome-laden aftermarket switches with wires taped to the steering column and universal clamps, which often are not even self-cancelling -- eeewww, I don't even want to think about them!). The Hudson switch has its own clamp that is part of the gearshift lever clamp (so it fits right in), it is small, it (often) has a classy plastic cover with the Hudson emblem, and it has a special wire trough that holds the wires to the steering column. At the bottom end of the trough is a cast piece which carries the wires up and under the dashboard and hides them. You will also have a self-canceler (I believe some sort of pin has to be inserted into the underside of the steering wheel for this). All very neat & tidy. But be sure to get the SEVEN-wire one if you intend to use the SINGLE lamp. Get the THREE wire version if you have a separate turnsignal-only socket in the taillight.

[Deleted User]

Jon B wrote:

Now, if you manage to glom onto an original Hudson "factory" column switch, complete, you will have a very neat unit that practically disappears (unlike the large, garish, chrome-laden aftermarket switches with wires taped to the steering column and universal clamps, which often are not even self-cancelling -- eeewww, I don't even want to think about them!). The Hudson switch has its own clamp that is part of the gearshift lever clamp (so it fits right in), it is small, it (often) has a classy plastic cover with the Hudson emblem, and it has a special wire trough that holds the wires to the steering column. At the bottom end of the trough is a cast piece which carries the wires up and under the dashboard and hides them. You will also have a self-canceler (I believe some sort of pin has to be inserted into the underside of the steering wheel for this). All very neat & tidy. But be sure to get the SEVEN-wire one if you intend to use the SINGLE lamp. Get the THREE wire version if you have a separate turnsignal-only socket in the taillight.

Thanks, Jon. I will look for a 3-wire unit for when I have the $$$ to get the reproduction wiring harness.