Transmission help

Unknown

Guy;

I heed a little help, again, I am trying to pull an automatic transmission off of a Jet engine. I expected the torque converter to stay on the engine mounted to a flex plate/flywheel, but when I took the bellhousing bolts out the thing slid back abot a quarter inch and stoped. No more movement, and it looks like the starter ring is mounted to the tourque converter and it is moving with the tranmission.

I did't plan to be working on anything this new so I don't have any books to cover this car.

Any advice would be of great help.

Tom Richter

SuperDave

The Hudson Hydro does not have a torque converter like a more modern car. You will have to remove all the bolts that hold the taurus cover on to the flywheel. There are a bunch of them!! Then the two will seperate. In effect, you will be taking the "torque converter" apart. Make sure you have a drain pan under there! The transmission will drop right out. You will need a new gasket when you are ready to put it back together.

Good luck, daveW Fl

Unknown

The engine is frozen solid. no way I can turn it over. Is there any other way to get the transmission off or will I have to try to tear the whole thing down with the transmission on the block?

richter

Unknown

mines frozen too

drop the center steering and you can get the oil pan out
pull the head off if you haven't already and clean the bores the best
you can with sandpaper and then soak them. then pull the timing cover on the front of the engine and remove the timing chain thus disconnecting the crankshaft from the camshaft and valve train, then unscrew your rod caps without mixing them up the order or the direction of each one the nuts are 9/16. after that you MIGHT be able to get the pistons out depending how stuck they are and how hard you whack on the rods

i was working on mine yesterday and got pistons 3 and 4 out but
number 2 is free just not coming out yet

good luck

Unknown

The moter is out, hanging on the engine hoist. I will put it on the cart and get the head off then pick it back up to get the pan off. I guess I can always bust the pistons out as a last resort, but I will try your method first. Thanks for the advice.

richter

Unknown

TL

You might try taking the timing cover and crank pully of and remove the timing chain off the cam gear. If you have stuck valves the engine will ture over as well compounding the issue.

Fred

Unknown

Hudson54; I followed your advice ALMOST to the letter. Took off all the stuff on the outside of the engine, dropped the pan(carefully, no spilled oil) drained the transmission(thought that would be a nice touch), took off the timing chain and popped out all the pistons. Most of them came out pretty easy, only a couple that needed more than a few pretty good whacks to get out. Took off all of the bolts on the torque converter, and slid a pan under it, wigeled it a bit -no oil- so I went around to the other side of the engine and gave it a kick. The transmission came loose, and all the oil on the converter went all over the floor befor I could get the pan under it. Well the transmission is setting on the cart and the engine is on a cart and my wife helped me clean up the mess. All the tools are cleaned up and I am done for the day. My wife made me throw out my clothes, I tried to get her to run them through the parts washer since she won't put them in the washer but she won't touch stuff in my workshop.

The cyclenders look pretty good, I will knjow more after I hone them.

Did the factory pistons have cross-hatching on them or was that a after market piston, almost looks like they were knurled.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

Any one want to swap a three speed setup for an auto trans?

richter

SuperDave

I told ya to put a pan underneath it! LOL. I just went through the floor cleanup myself. Pulled my 262 Super Six and the transmission. did a pretty good job of catching everything except the Hudsonite from the clutch. and the transmission grease that came out of the solenoid hole on the oD. Forgot all about it. At least it's in MY garage detached from the house. I even have my own washing machine. Joan won't let me put my dirty cloths in hers..

Actually, the pistons could be knurled. That was an easy way to save a few bucks back in the day. Time to call Dale Cooper.

Unknown

Sorry about the mixup, I was pretty punchy, overheated tired and dirty. But, Thank you for your help.

Now I have to get the block over to the mechinest for a good dip and valve job. Then its time to try to put it back together. But I will need to get a shop manuel for a Jet, I just love to collect books.

Thanks again

Tom Richter

Unknown

The pistons have been knurled. The club store sells a Jet shop manuel. If it were my engine I would check the cylinder bore for wear. May need to go oversize with new pistons and rings. I like my Jet Liner with hydro.

Unknown

It will probably need a rebore, but I am a little tight for money so I am hoping to get by with a hone and new rings, if it needs new pistons then I guess I will just have to pay for it. The engine is a twin h jet with auto, but I hate auto trans so I will try to swap out the trans for a three speed. I was planning to put this engine in my terraplane but it may not fit. Then I will just have to find a Jet two door.

tom richter

[Deleted User]

T.L.Richter wrote:

I was planning to put this engine in my terraplane but it may not fit.

tom richter

What year terraplane do you have? I'm in the process of putting a Twin-H 202 in my '39 112. The 37 & 38's Terra's have a longer front end than the 112's. You might be able to install it without modifying the firewall but you will have to modify the engine mounting plate.



If you are interested, I can send you some pics of what I have done to this point.



Kevin C.

Ol racer

Guys,

The Jet engine in the Terraplane is a great Idea and should fit well. The Jet is pressure oil fed and probably lighter.

I put a Hornet in my '37 but it was a real tight fit. I had to trim the front X then shove the radiator out into the grille shell.

Unknown

I'm looking to put the Jet engine in a 35 T coach. I'll chop up the engine befor I go messing with the firewall or frame. I hope to put it back to stock or near stock some day.

Hudsy Wudsy

T. L., it's academic at this point, but did you use a ridge reamer on the top of the cylinder walls before removing the pistons?

russmaas

A future easier fix to get the transmission out with a frozen motor is to take sledge hammer to the bell housing to expose the bolts. Bell housings are a dime a dozen out there. Anybody need the ten I have on a shelf:-) Tip given to me by the great Gus Souza!!

Geoff

Hey, we are talking about JET bell housings here. Not too many of those laying around.

Unknown

I used sand paper and penetrating oil on the cyclenders befor I knocked the pistons out. Looks like a lot of carbon build up but not a lot of cyclender wear.

If some one has manual transmission parts for a Jet, like bellhousing,flyweel,pressure plate and transmission let me know what you want for them.

I realize I tend to do things the hard way or the far way around, but I have motives. The more extra parts I have the easier it is to talk my wife into more cars.

tom

Hudsy Wudsy

Hudsons have such hard blocks that they don't often have much of a ridge at the top of the cylinder wall unless they've seen a lot of miles. But the thing with any ridge is that if a piston rings jams against it, even momentarily, while being driven out from the bottom it can press down hard enough on the piston's ring land (the thin part of the piston that lies between the piston rings) and crack that relatively delicate part of the piston. A cracked ring land makes the piston unusable again. I don't mean to sound like I'm lecturing you, it's just that what I'm describing here can happen. I'm sure that most of the time (unless the rings are frozen hard to the piston) the rings will simply jump past the ridge as the piston passes out of the cylinder. The ridge has to be removed eventually anyway in order for the new rings to not run into it when the engine is fired up for the first time. The reason for this is that the old rings have flexed a small amount with every stroke over time causing the top edge of the top ring to wear a little bit round. New rings that you might install will have a fresh square edge on the top and may contact that ridge at the top of the cylinder wall with enough force to crack a ring land beneath it. I'd suggest that if you do choose to reuse your old pistons (a perfectly fine thing to do), you give the ring lands a good inspection to be sure there aren't any cracks.