removing wiper motor

[Deleted User]

Well, the coupe is back out on the road, and I'm busy ironing out the kinks, and picking away at the details that I never seemed to get around to until now.



One of the first things I've gotta do is get the wipers working again, but evry time I look at those cables, and pullys, etc., I get a little "spooked" about starting to undo everything, and letting them loose to hang wherever while I try to bench fix the motor. I guess I'm worried I'll never get everything back in adjustment again, once I slack them off.



Maybe I'll discover this job is really pretty simple once I get started, but any advice would be appreciated.



Is a '54 wiper motor identical to a '53 motor? Maybe I'll yank one off one of my '54's and fiddle around with it before I tackle the one on the coupe.



Also, --- if a wiper motor "leaks" vacuum somehow, will this affect carb adjustment or idle speed, etc. ( sort of like having a hole in the hose?)

Unknown

Look at it this way, the people who built our cars lived in the stone age compared to now. If they could install and service wiper motors, so can you.



The parts manual shows the wiper motor to be the same for 53 and 54.



Yes, a vacuum leak anywhere will impact engine operation.

Unknown

you might try this, had it work once, take the hose loose under the hood and get the open end higer than the wiper motor, might have to attach another slightly bigger hose and pour some brake fluid in it, turn your air down real low , just enough to get the fluid to go to the wiper, just give it short shots so you don't blow it all out the other end, and blow it in to the wiper, work it back and forth by hand to spread it around. Mines worked good for about a yr now and still goin after doing this. Did it with the switch in both on and off position and blades at both ends of travel. Poke a rag up around the motor because it will come out the exaust, Bud

[Deleted User]

37 Terraplane#2 wrote:

you might try this, had it work once, take the hose loose under the hood and get the open end higer than the wiper motor, might have to attach another slightly bigger hose and pour some brake fluid in it, turn your air down real low , just enough to get the fluid to go to the wiper, just give it short shots so you don't blow it all out the other end, and blow it in to the wiper, work it back and forth by hand to spread it around. Mines worked good for about a yr now and still goin after doing this. Did it with the switch in both on and off position and blades at both ends of travel. Poke a rag up around the motor because it will come out the exaust, Bud

I think one of the Hudson guru's is was talking to, or maybe it was on this forum where someone mentioned something about using Marvel Mystery Oil when working on wiper motors. Can't remember exactly, ( it was years ago).



Is there some leather gasket in there or something, or just the standard gasket stuff like you'd find in a carb or other engine part?

Unknown

yes there is a paddle i'll call it in it that has leather all around the sides of it, also a little flap type valve that needs some oiling up .marvel would be fine,anythig that will soften the leather, give it time to soak it up some before you expect it to have effect Bud

nick s

Don't worry they are self adjusting.

pulling it apart isn't a problem. On the pulley assemblies you need to pull the stack of spring leaves back out of the sawteeth then rotate the pulley assembly to slack the cables. once slack insert an awl through the approx 3/16" holes that now line up. in the movable portion into the mounting bracket to trap it in the slack position. when new, these had a small pin that you removed once everything was in place. the cables just slip in a slot on the arms of the motor. once you get it all back together, you rotate the assembly to take pressure off the awl and remove it. the torsion springs will pull the cables to the right tension.

[Deleted User]

nick s wrote:

Don't worry they are self adjusting.



pulling it apart isn't a problem. On the pulley assemblies you need to pull the stack of spring leaves back out of the sawteeth then rotate the pulley assembly to slack the cables. once slack insert an awl through the approx 3/16" holes that now line up. in the movable portion into the mounting bracket to trap it in the slack position. when new, these had a small pin that you removed once everything was in place. the cables just slip in a slot on the arms of the motor. once you get it all back together, you rotate the assembly to take pressure off the awl and remove it. the torsion springs will pull the cables to the right tension.

Now that sounds like a fix even I can handle Nick !! Thanks for the tips --- I shall proceed without fear !!



silverone.

SuperDave

As I recall, the fluid recommended was neats foot oil. It is good for leather. I have some here.. come and get it.. LOL

[Deleted User]

SuperDave wrote:

As I recall, the fluid recommended was neats foot oil. It is good for leather. I have some here.. come and get it.. LOL

Well, I can probably get some a bit closer than that Dave, but I appreciate the comment !!



I'll get some and try that first, before the wrenches come out. Putting petroleum based oil in there kind of worries me, if there's leather in there.

[Deleted User]

I filled my flapper with lubriplate light grease, it had old grease in it that was just about petrified, it works fine now. Make sure if you use neats foot oil you use pure neats foot oil and not the improved version as it isn't the same and will rot some leathers.



Harry