Seal - Pinion Oil - Leak!

[Deleted User]

It would seem that after sitting for years the pinion oil seal is no longer functioning as it should. I now have a small leak after driving around a little. It is large enough to get it fixed ASAP.



Group & Illust. No. B5-9, Plate 4, Group 9.064, Part 300959-Leather or

Group & Illust. No. B5-9, Plate 4, Group 9.064, Part 303843-Leather & Felt.



I will not know which one I have until I disassemble.



Is it feasilble to replace this by only disconnecting the drive shaft at the joint and taking off the carrier & cap assembly?



By feasible I mean without the special tool listed in the Mechanical Procedure Manual. Is there a "meodern" version of this tool or a good shade-tree alternative?



Are there any cross-over seals that will fit?

Ol racer

I dont have a '50 style rear anymore to check but most pinion seals can be replaced as you described without special tools. (Try not to touch the bearing).

Regarding crossover, if someone doesnt supply a current Number try NAPA or Advance Auto, or your local 'Bearing Store in the Yellow pages, then lubricate & tap in square.

mars55

I found two seals for 1948 to 1952 (early). National 450087 or C/R NAPA 17720. This seal is 3.066 x 1.750 x 0.4850 The other seal is C/R NAPA 17035 and it is 3.066 x 1.680 x 0.3750

[Deleted User]

Ol racer wrote:

I dont have a '50 style rear anymore to check but most pinion seals can be replaced as you described without special tools. (Try not to touch the bearing).

Regarding crossover, if someone doesnt supply a current Number try NAPA or Advance Auto, or your local 'Bearing Store in the Yellow pages, then lubricate & tap in square.

OK. Now to figure out how to pull it.



mars55 wrote:

I found two seals for 1948 to 1952 (early). National 450087 or C/R NAPA 17720. This seal is 3.066 x 1.750 x 0.4850 The other seal is C/R NAPA 17035 and it is 3.066 x 1.680 x 0.3750

Great info to have. My cross-over list has been updated. I will still check with Dale, Doug and others when I am ready to purchase.

SuperDave

A removal method I have used in the past..after the yoke is removed..is:

Drill two small holes in the metal part of the seal oposite of each other. Being crefull to not penetrate any further than the shell of the seal. Grind the tip off of two sheetmetal screws and start them in the holes. Carefully alternate between each other and tighten the screws. The seal should push it's self out smoothly. Make sure you gringd the tips off or you may cause internal damage.

[Deleted User]

SuperDave wrote:

A removal method I have used in the past..after the yoke is removed..is:

Drill two small holes in the metal part of the seal oposite of each other. Being carefull to not penetrate any further than the shell of the seal. Grind the tip off of two sheetmetal screws and start them in the holes. Carefully alternate between each other and tighten the screws. The seal should push it's self out smoothly. Make sure you gringd the tips off or you may cause internal damage.

Thank you SuperDave.

Park_W

P500, you don't need to remove the diff. assembly, just the nut and u-joint yoke. It is a bit of a bear to get the seal out. Somethimes you just have to start nipping away at it with wire cutters, or drive a screwdriver into it and pry it out. When you reassemble, be sure to tighten the u-joint yoke nut to the recommended torque (roughly speaking, "a bunch"). Otherwise the pinion shaft bearings will be running loose.

[Deleted User]

Park W wrote:

P500, you don't need to remove the diff. assembly, just the nut and u-joint yoke. It is a bit of a bear to get the seal out. Somethimes you just have to start nipping away at it with wire cutters, or drive a screwdriver into it and pry it out. When you reassemble, be sure to tighten the u-joint yoke nut to the recommended torque (roughly speaking, "a bunch"). Otherwise the pinion shaft bearings will be running loose.

Thank you, Park. I figured since the MPM said I could do it while on the car, I would get good information from everyone here on how to go about it.



I now ahve two ways to get the old seal out.



Right now the car is at the brake shop (I must order shoes). I am getting new lines installed, the wheel and master cyclinders rebuilt. I know I could have learned how do do this myself, but brakes are important and felt I needed to pay for the professional, warrantied work (parts anyway).

Unknown

I got tired of replaceing wheel and driveshaft seals in my semis and started useng some stuff called TRI-SEAL {long story how I found it } in all gear boxes. The last two trucks racked up a million miles each with NO seal replacemnts. Had my local parts house stock it for me and every independant and shade tree mech around here now uses it . Now I can't say how it'll work in a car that just sits and sits some more, it'll soften and dry up a dried but not worn out seal, but it takes some miles for it to work. Bud

[Deleted User]

37 Terraplane#2 wrote:

I got tired of replaceing wheel and driveshaft seals in my semis and started useng some stuff called TRI-SEAL {long story how I found it } in all gear boxes.

How would one use this product based on the leak I have?

Unknown

You just put it in what ever gear box { in your case the diff } and leave it there. It will take some driveing for it to work,how much depends on how dry the seal is. I want to add this,I have never tried it on something that has sat for 10-20 yrs.or one where a dryed out seal has been run till it wore out, keep it soft and it'll last a LOOONG time there may be a point where nothing but replacement works. I keep it in the diff-tranny-power steering as preventive maintanance, you put it in and leave it there , and it has done a relly good job for me. Bud