How do the wires run?

[Deleted User]

I'm purdy dumb when it comes to this stuff fellows, so please help out an old bridge carpenter.

The old coil in my '36 shot the wad--kapoot. The replacement coil has two terminals on the top (neg and pos). So which gos to the side of the dizzy and which goes to ignition.

My old stock coil had only one place for a wire on top--a big cable from the ign switch.



Thanks. Denverslim

[Deleted User]

OK, now I'm even dummer than I thought and replying to myself.

Even more confusion...

As I look closer, the old ignition switch seems to be an intregral piece with the coil...a cable runs from the switch (and doesn't at first glance seem removable) to the top of the coil (and doesn't look removable here either).



My new "replacable" coil just has two terminals--(+ or -).



With a test light I get a nice bright lite from the old coil terminal that goes to the side of the distributer, but nothing from the sparkplug--looking wire that comes out the bottom. Now I'm wondering if I really need this new fandangled coil at all. Yesterday I had no spark.



Help!

Park_W

OK Slim, let's see if the old coil's really kaput. Take the dist cap off so you can see the points, then, if needed, bump the engine around 'til the points are definitely open. Pull the center wire from the distributor cap. Be sure the original "coil to side of distributor" wire is connected. Disconnect the regular wire that comes from the ign switch to the screw under the coil "cap." Now run a jumper wire direct from the battery to the terminal that's under the cap on the coil (this is to ensure there's power to the coil ... you can use your test light to double-check that there's power there). Now, back to the center Hi-voltage wire you took from the dist cap, the upper end of which which should be connected into the bottom of the coil. Holding the distributoe end of that wire 1/4" from the engine block or other good ground, short across the points with a screwdriver. You'll probably see a little spark at the points when you do that. Then "unshort" the points, and you should get a good hot, blue spark from that hi-voltage wire. Try it a couple more times (shorting and unshorting across the points), and see if the spark is consistently looking good. If it's weak and more yellowish, you likely have a bad condenser. If there's no spark at all from the high-voltage wire, you've probably got a bad coil.

If the coil checks OK, use your test light to ensure you have power at the end of the wire coming to the coil from the ignition switch (with the key ON, of course). Being ready to swith the key off quickly if needed, flex the armored housing that encloses the coil wire while the test light is connected at the coil end. The igniton-to-coil wire may have a break in it, or it could be shorting against the inside of the armored covering. If it's shorting out, the armoring is going to get hot in a hurry. Switch the key off Pronto! Good luck

[Deleted User]

Park W, your my hero. Thanks man for the quick clear directions for the test.



Well, I got spark--Man do I have spark! I hit my head on the hood flap trying to back away from the spark! I still got the shakes an hour later!



But it's all good. And the 'plane purrs like a kitten.

Turns out the problem was that although I had tightened up the nut to that holds the wire to the side of the coil, it was only tightening up to the other nut which was LOOSE!

Somebody needs to hit me again on the side of the head. I wasn't gittin' a good connection on the primary. I liked to never figgured it out.

Thanks again Park W. I owe ya...denverslim

MikeWA

I believe Park is my "most published" member of this board. Whenever I see something that really looks useful for solving my future bewilderment with the Hudson, I highlight it and print it. Thank you, Park, for all of your postings!

Richard E.

Mike, I do the same thing with many of Park's postings. He also has been extremely helpful to me with the resto of my '36T. Good, clear instructions and advice. Thank you,Park!