Jacking Up The Hudson

drivergo2

WHATS THE BEST WAY TO LIFT UP A STEPDOWN AND BLOCK IT UP HIGHER OFF THE GROUND IT HAS TO STAY OUTSIDE ANOTHER WINTER. THANKS JOHN

[Deleted User]

Bad Hudson! Put it's nose in it's own mess and put newspaper down. In a few weeks, the Hudson can stay inside.... LOL

[Deleted User]

One way is to use a floor jack. Put the jack up under where the center point steering is and start raising it up . Put jack stands under the lower "A' s and then proceed to the rear of the car. Place the floor jack jacking pad under the center of the rear end and pick that up. Place jack stands under the rear axle and Presto the car is off the ground. Don't bother using the standard or optional origional jack . A hydraulic floor jack works best. If you are going to use blocks instead of stands then make sure they are decent and not cracked.

RL Chilton

Hudzilla wrote:

One way is to use a floor jack. Put the jack up under where the center point steering is and start raising it up . Put jack stands under the lower "A' s and then proceed to the rear of the car. Place the floor jack jacking pad under the center of the rear end and pick that up. Place jack stands under the rear axle and Presto the car is off the ground. Don't bother using the standard or optional origional jack . A hydraulic floor jack works best. If you are going to use blocks instead of stands then make sure they are decent and not cracked.

And if you plan on using cinder blocks, which I don't advise, at least put all the "holes" vertically and don't lay the cinder blocks on their "side"--extremely dangerous!!

MikeWA

I got a lesson in the integrity of the Hudson "monobloc" frame structure when I first jacked up my '52. Figured I would just jack one side up, block it, move to the other side, repeat, etc., til I had it where I wanted it (which was, high enough so I could slide my considerable girth under it, on a creeper). Did the front, no problem- put jack stands under it. Moved to the back, jacked it up about a half inch, and noticed the other side was coming up as well! Couldn't believe the frame structure was that stiff. Got to thinking about it, and when I did the front (with the rear still on the tires), the rear springs and tires compensated for lifting the sides unevenly- but when I went to the back, with jackstands now under the frame in front, it simply lifted the whole thing, even tho I was only jacking on one side. Since it was a 50 year old car, I didn't want to risk torqueing something out of shape, so let it down and jacked from under the middle of the real end. I now jack from the center on both ends, so as not to put a strain on anything.

Unknown

If the car will not be on pavement, make sure you use footings below the blocks to spread the load so they don't sink into the earth. Use the same approach if using a jack on an unpaved surface. Also, parking the car atop a heavy plastic vapor barrier would be a good idea if the car will be under cover. To keep the critters at bay, you might want to bundle some moth balls in paper towels and place them under the hood and in the tail pipe. A handful underneath the car would be good, too.

Ol racer

I use Moth Crystals available at KMart or Bed Bath & Beyond since they seem to have a longer lasting odor. I also pour Marvel Oil (or Stabil) in the gas tank and sometimes stall the motor by pouring little bit into the carb for the off season storage

[Deleted User]

Another thing, if you use cinder blocks, put a length of 2x6 equal to the length of each block, between the block and the car. This speads the load and keeps the lift safe at the same time. Used blocks for many years and have not had a problem using this method.

junkcarfann

I hope that when you mention cinder blocks you actually mean cement blocks. Cinder blocks were made years ago from cinders left over from burning coal, and cement, and have very little structural strength compared to cement blocks.