Need Help! - Rear Body to Quarter Panel - Reference Picture

rambos_ride

Finally getting close on the frame patches :mad: ...this is an older picture



Next thing is to shore up the rust on the rear quarter panel mounts to roll pan.



Can anyone help provide me a close up picture(s) of good sheet metal of this area of their Stepdown with the quarter removed? Specifically from the outside? The area I need the most is the lower quarter mounting flange to the rear roll pan. Mine is completely rusted out on both sides and I really need a picture to fabricate the replacement pieces correctly.

rambos_ride

rambos_ride wrote:

Finally getting close on the frame patches :mad: ...this is an older picture



Next thing is to shore up the rust on the rear quarter panel mounts to roll pan.



Can anyone help provide me a close up picture(s) of good sheet metal of this area of their Stepdown with the quarter removed? Specifically from the outside? The area I need the most is the lower quarter mounting flange to the rear roll pan. Mine is completely rusted out on both sides and I really need a picture to fabricate the replacement pieces correctly.

Anyone listening...hello...



Come on... someone has to have a solid car with the quarter panels off that could take a picture for me PLEASE! :eek:

Unknown

I will take some for you later this morning.

Unknown

Greetings from Colorado!



I am following all of your posts as you repair the rear areas of the frame/sheetmetal. I am working on a 1951 Hornet that sat for 33 years and was subject to periods of water. I have not dissasembled anything as of yet, but have been "investigating". I know that I will have to replace the trunk floor and a lot of the surrounding sheet metal. I finally got the trunk open on the '52 parts car and the floor is solid, so the '51 gets a "new" floor and and a vertical spare tire well.



Othe areas for rust repair include the rocker panels and floor boards. I know that any thoughts that anyone would care to post with their experiences would be greatly appreciated and photos would be MOST welcome!



George T.

rambos_ride

Dennis in NY wrote:

I will take some for you later this morning.

Sweet! I really appreciate it - I hadn't remembered the fact you were going to paint your quarters seperate from the car and then install them again.



I know its not an area of the car that is seen by anyone - unless they are looking - but I am trying my best to make it look like it hasn't been repaired. Like spending a couple of extra hours with the Dremel grinder poked through the outer frame rail holes to smooth the welds on both sides of the patch.



I'll probably be long gone when this Hudson ever gets torn down to this level again and I want some future Hudsonite to think "wow this guy did good work!"

rambos_ride

George T. wrote:

Greetings from Colorado!



I am following all of your posts as you repair the rear areas of the frame/sheetmetal. I am working on a 1951 Hornet that sat for 33 years and was subject to periods of water. I have not dissasembled anything as of yet, but have been "investigating". I know that I will have to replace the trunk floor and a lot of the surrounding sheet metal. I finally got the trunk open on the '52 parts car and the floor is solid, so the '51 gets a "new" floor and and a vertical spare tire well.



Othe areas for rust repair include the rocker panels and floor boards. I know that any thoughts that anyone would care to post with their experiences would be greatly appreciated and photos would be MOST welcome!



George T.

I've got the basic rear frame patches done - they will need a little more attention once its primed just to smooth off some of the grinding marks - but the corners are solid again and now I can move on.



I think the biggest piece of advice I could give anyone doing work on a rusty car is fix the worst of what you can see - but don't get too carried away because unless you chemical dip the body-tub there is no way to get all the rust out. Simply because once rust starts from the inside (inside the frame rail pockets for instance) or in between a pinch-weld (two sheets welded together with spot welds) you can only STAY ON TOP OF IT BUT NEVER GET RID OF IT!



I think the best you can do is to make the fixes - and enjoy the car - but don't get too bummed if you keep the car and 3-5 years down the road you see some rust areas popping back up. Normally these will show up adjacent to the areas repaired before. Typically this is because the area of repair is a tad thinner in thickness due to the rust and when the welds are ground out - it can thin the edges of original metal on the patch.



I'm hoping some of these newer primer materials that are rust-inhibitive/rust-encapsulating will hold up better over time and help reduce some of the "rust-rework" down the road. FYI: The area of black primer on the wheelhouse in the picture here is Eastwood Rust Inhibitive Black Satin Primer (search the posts for Eastwood or POR15 for more info) from a spray can. Believe it or not the area was only scotch-brite scuffed (to remove loose dirt) and then sprayed with the Eastwood primer out of a poof-can.







The reason I inlcuded the picture? Since then I have taken my 3500lb Landa Gas Powered Pressure Washer to that area at point blank range - and it held! I'm reasonably certain it will perform better when the metal is cleaned more appropriately after sandblasting.



I guess in a nutshell what I'm trying to say is if you keep your car some rust will eventually start showing again, then when it does you just fix it, paint it and keep on driving!



Front floor boards are available from Ken Amman and the rocker panels are available through Greenline? You can search the forum to get the information - I don't have it at my finger tips!



Good Luck - Next week I'll be posting more pictures of the remaining rust fixes on my website....

Unknown

Not sure if this is what you are looking for, but here you go. Send me a private message with your email and I can send anything else you want (give me details as to exactly what you want a picture of) directly to you. Pardon my overspray.

Unknown

I just found a few more from back when I was doing the sheet metal work. Maybe these help? I shold note that the trunk floor is spot welded directly to the top of the rail you are patching. It is not rolled or bend on the end, it is just flat. Once welded and primed, I used some good seam sealer to finish it off.

rambos_ride

Perfecto! That's exactly what I was hoping for.



It almost made me cry yours looks sooooo much better than mine - and that is before you started making fixes!!



Thanks Dennis - I owe you one

Unknown

I rebuilt 51 Pacemaker club coupe a few years ago. Removed every piece of body and frame that was held on or together with bolts. Sent all the parts to Redi Strip in Jackson, MS. They drilled a small hole in the top and a hole in top of each wheel well so it would sink in the vat. When I got it back it was clean as a new galvanized bucket. Some rust holes in fenders and rockers and floors that did not show before. A couple in the outside wheel surround that was very easy to patch. Painted the complete under side with ROR15 and used a old air spray kerosene wash gun to spray the inside of frame work through every hole. Sprayed ever piece of bare metal with etching primer. Inside and out. Took a while and cost a bundle. Maybe the owner will post a picture.

rambos_ride

Billy K.TN. wrote:

I rebuilt 51 Pacemaker club coupe a few years ago. Removed every piece of body and frame that was held on or together with bolts. Sent all the parts to Redi Strip in Jackson, MS. They drilled a small hole in the top and a hole in top of each wheel well so it would sink in the vat. When I got it back it was clean as a new galvanized bucket. Some rust holes in fenders and rockers and floors that did not show before. A couple in the outside wheel surround that was very easy to patch. Painted the complete under side with ROR15 and used a old air spray kerosene wash gun to spray the inside of frame work through every hole. Sprayed ever piece of bare metal with etching primer. Inside and out. Took a while and cost a bundle. Maybe the owner will post a picture.

That's a good example of doing it right!



We unfortunate folks in the Seattle area don't have a facility close by to do this type of work (acid dip) - most likely due to the granola-eating-aging-hippy-Fremont types that have made it almost impossible to fart without someone complaining you messed up the environment.

Unknown

Rambos:



I see Dennis sent you the photos your were looking for. I am going to try and post what I have, this is original metal no patching.

rambos_ride

SRCraftsman2 wrote:

Rambos:



I see Dennis sent you the photos your were looking for. I am going to try and post what I have, this is original metal no patching.

Thanks - between what Dennis posted and yours - I'm armed and dangerous - I'll have her looking like new in no time!

rambos_ride

rambos_ride wrote:

Thanks - between what Dennis posted and yours - I'm armed and dangerous - I'll have her looking like new in no time!

Getting close to the 1 year anniversary - of buying the Hudson :eek:



Thanks to Dennis-NY and SRCraftsman2 - I got the rear patches close tonight.



They still need some holes drilled for the quarter mount and of course some final weld cleanup but now I just need to tackle a few more rust holes in the rear roll pan...







So other than front floor boards (ordering some repros from Ken Amman) and what ever small rust areas creep up when stipped - I think I can finally say - major fabrication is DONE!



Now the 49 is far...far...far from being complete - but a milestone I'm going to step on - even if prematurely!



Thanks again for the help guys!

Unknown

HAVE 30 RUST FREE CALIF PARTS CARS, IF i CAN HELP LET ME KNOW YOUR NEEDS. BILL ALBRIGHTS VINTAGE COACH, 16593 ARROW BL, FONTANA, CA 92335 PH 909 823 9168

SuperDave

Bill I tried to send you a private message. Your mail box is full. No emails either..?I Need some parts and hate telephones Cuz my hearing is crap.

Dave W. Fl