Need the correct crank handle/lug wrench.

jjbubaboy

Hey all Hudnuts again,

I dont have the correct crank handle/lug wrench for my 36T. I have the long shaft but this is what was in the trunk and its not what I think I need.

Does anyone have an extra correct one to sell/swap?

Thanks still,

Hudsonly,

T Jeff

Uncle Josh

I didn't know the shaft came in different lengths

jjbubaboy

Hey Josh,

I dont think it did. Its just a long reach from the front to the damper!

Thanks,

T Jeff

jjbubaboy

Hey all,

Any other leads for the correct crank handle?

Thanks,

T Jeff

[Deleted User]

Jeff, what size are the lug nuts?



Harry

jjbubaboy

Hey Harry,

they are "3/4.

Thanks,

T Jeff

[Deleted User]

T Jeff, I have a starter crank with 3/4 lug on one end that I bought for my Dodge Bros pickup, unfortunately the nuts on my Dodge are 5/8. I think the distance from the crank pins to the bend is 8". If I can find another wrench at the Pomona swap meet you can buy this one if you want to. Here is a picture.



Harry

jjbubaboy

Hey Harry,

Thanks, but that type wont work for my Terraplane. At least not for cranking anyway.

I think I found a Ford one that might work though.

Thanks again,

T Jeff

[Deleted User]

That's okay T Jeff, I may just cut off the 3/4 end and put a 5/8 lug on the crank. The crank part is correct for the DB.



Harry

Jon B

I'll offer you the same suggestion I offered Paul Schuster (who's looking for a '34 Hudson crank handle):



you might look around amongst dealers in used antique Ford parts. That is where I found my crank handle, many years ago. The Hudson and (late thirties, I assume) Ford designs are similar, but the Hudson socket (on the crank handle) which engages the extension rod, is smaller in diameter than the Ford's. (You can take a measurement of the opening in your bumper to determine the size that will fit). I happened onto a pile of crank handles at a flea market at Atlantic City, and the seller said that some of these were definitely NOT for Fords, so I looked at them. Sure enough, I found one whose "extension rod" socket would fit the crank hole in my bumper, and indeed, it fit perfectly. I probably paid a buck or so for it (25 years ago).

Jon B

For what it's worth, here is the crank I bought many years ago for my '37. I have no idea whether it's original, but it works perfectly, so I imagine that the original '37 (and probably other Hudson / Terraplane mid-thirties) cranks were similar to this. The key here, is to make sure that the socket which fits the extension rod, will fit through the hole in your bumper. I've also posted a drawing with the dimensions.



Sorry, can't seem to post the PDF with the dimensions here, so follow this link:

http://mysite.verizon.net/detailed1/STARTING%20CRANK.pdf

jjbubaboy

Hey Jon,

THANKS! Great drawing and pic! As luck would have it, I found one last week on ebay just like that! Got it for $5 plus $6 for shipping. (figures!)

Should do the job nicely.

Thanks for your response and time!

T Jeff

Jon B

Yup, I've started the engine. As long as the engine's in good shape and it's just the batt'ry that's run down, it just takes a 1/4 turn and off it goes. Much easier than jumping off another car's battery and of course, if you stall out in the country (as I did once) with no one around, it's a life-saver.

[Deleted User]

Jon, I used to start my dads old model A when I was just a kid. I was a skinny little guy and it took everything I had but I don't think it could have been too hard or I wouldn't have been able to do it. I think it just had to get past the top of the stroke. That was probably fifty years ago though so my memory isn't real clear about the process.



Harry

ESSX28-1

From an old US farmer I bought some Essex bits off some years ago:



David,

I am reminded about cranking the Essex:



I remember another adventure with the Essex Super Six...when the starter jammed and bend the armature, of course the car wouldn't start. But it could still be crankedby hand. Since I was a little boy, I didn't have much strength in my arms yet. My father warned me not to grab the crank handle with a full grip with my thumb around the crank. To do so, with advanced spark, when the engine fired before top dead center the crank would be spun backwards, counter clockwise and could break my thumb. He said to use a "slip" grip with the thumb on the same side as the rest of the hand. This was a little harder for me and without my thumb in place, my hand wasn't strong enough to hold the crank to spin it. I also found when the engine fired before top dead center it "kicked" the crank and it slipped from my grip like it was supposed to, but spun all the way around and hit the back of my arm near the elbow. I didn't like that...it really hurt. I found a better way...I engaged the crank and if necessary, rotated the engine slowly clockwise to place the crank handle in the one or two-o-clock position, then stood on the front bumper, held onto the hood ornament, and jumped on the crank to drive it to the six-o-clock position. The engine would usually start after about 3 tries. Sometimes it kicked hard enough to throw me up into the air. But I still had a good hold of the hood ornament for balance. Kind of an exciting way to get it running. But as usual, my parents got the bent armature fixed and I lost that excitement.



Dick