Cracked Block Repair?

[Deleted User]

Hi folks:



I'm a long-time owner (since ~1985) of a 53 HHCC. It's been sitting for about 10 years now but it looks like I may have the time to devote to working on it in the near future. Oh yea, I watched "Cars" Wednesday night and "Driving Miss Daisy" last night so my Hudson inspiration level is back up! At any rate, my Hornet will need quite a bit of TLC to make driveable and presentable again.



My main dilemma: my otherwise-excellent block (0.060 over, 7X block reliefs, 1/2" head bolts, cleaned up ports) has two cracks between exhaust valves and cylinders. I actually put ~10,000 miles on the car like this with no significant problems (evidently ceramic block seal works as advertised). OTOH, if I'm going into the engine again I want to make it 100% right.



What's the group's opinion on repairing cracked blocks? Welding? Interlocking tapered plugs? Scrap it, find a new block and start over?



Opinions would be appreciated.



Hudsonly,

Hugh Odom

Summerville, SC

53 HHCC

esfoder

My Father is a automotive machinest and he has put in 100s of sleves over the years without a problem,but never in a Hudson. I can't see why it would be any different. I know the flathead ford guys do it all the time.Just my 2 cents worth.



Good luck

[Deleted User]

If I were in your situation, I would call George Place at Place Auto Parts, & Repair in Delphos, OH. George is very well known in this part of the country from his days racing Hudson powered sprint cars all through the 40's & 50's on legendary tracks here in Ohio, like Eldora, Allentown, and Landeck. If you are interested in tricks to hop-up Hudson engines, from the splasher 6 & 8 through the 7X,he has a wealth of real knowledge that one would do well to tap into. He used to buy some Hudson parts from my Granddad's Hudson Dealership in Leipsic, OH, so my family has known him a long time. I have seen his work first hand at repairing, and welding up broken, or cracked blocks, and heads that no other machine shop would touch. Either because they didn't want to be bothered, or more than likely hadn't a clue how to go about it successfully. He is 86 years young, but don't be fooled, he can still work guys 1/2 to 3/4 his age into the ground!! He is a very amazing man in that two summers ago he was driving a sport modified race truck at a dirt circle track near Waynesfield, Ohio! If you call, allow plenty of time for the conversation, because George LOVES to talk HUDSON!! (419)-695-1816 Let him know I suggested you give him a call.

Clutchguy

Hugh's_Hornet wrote:

Hi folks:



I'm a long-time owner (since ~1985) of a 53 HHCC. It's been sitting for about 10 years now but it looks like I may have the time to devote to working on it in the near future. Oh yea, I watched "Cars" Wednesday night and "Driving Miss Daisy" last night so my Hudson inspiration level is back up! At any rate, my Hornet will need quite a bit of TLC to make driveable and presentable again.



My main dilemma: my otherwise-excellent block (0.060 over, 7X block reliefs, 1/2" head bolts, cleaned up ports) has two cracks between exhaust valves and cylinders. I actually put ~10,000 miles on the car like this with no significant problems (evidently ceramic block seal works as advertised). OTOH, if I'm going into the engine again I want to make it 100% right.



What's the group's opinion on repairing cracked blocks? Welding? Interlocking tapered plugs? Scrap it, find a new block and start over?



Opinions would be appreciated.



Hudsonly,

Hugh Odom

Summerville, SC

53 HHCC

Sleeves and seats,when done properly are just fine!!! I have also seen-we are talking Hudson-a lap compound grind on a cracked seats go for more than 35K??-go figure-Hudson all the way!:D

SuperDave

I have a narrow block 49 262 that had an exhaust seat crack back in 1972. Still running fine with nothing more than peening the crack and regrinding the valve seat. However, the crack did not extend into the cylinder wall. A recent rebore to .040 and a valve job showed that the repair is still doing well. There are two sleeves now, but not in that cylinder! It must be that high nickle content block. An experienced automotive machinest is priceless.

[Deleted User]

I had my exhaust manifold welded with a powdered filler, did a great job, cool down was over twenty-four hours in wrapped in insulation and in a hot stove that was slowly brought down to room temp. The filler was applied with a torch with a special applicator, when finished you could not see the weld.



Harry