Replacing Motor Mounts

TOM-WA-

I want to rplace my worn front Motor Mounts in my 1954 Wasp, but I have encountered a problem...



In order to raise the Engine I thought that I could simply place a Jack under it between the pulley and the Oil pan......No Can do....



There is No room under a Wasp to place a Jack this far forward under the engine...Front suspension blocks the path....The Only place to put a Jack would be much farther back directly under the Oil pan and I don't know if

this would be able to lift the front of the block high enough to remove and replace the front motor mounts..





Anyone have experience with this particular procedure??





THANKS

dwardo99

We did this on our Wasp about 5 years ago. I don't remember how we did it but it must be possible. Since we did it in the driveway we must have jacked the engine up somehow. Maybe someone else can weigh in on this. BTW I have at least one Hudson oil pan that looks like somebody used a jack on it so be careful.

Unknown

Don't jack on the pan, it may collapse. I've done it three ways...



1. Using a 2X12 which was curved to fit the front pulley, the jack can be used if the board is on edge.

2. Using two 2X6s cut to fit the pan rails and then screwed to a cross brace under the pan, you can jack on the back. It's much more difficult as the weight doesn't balance right though.

3. Coming in from the front with a "cherry picker" from above under the hood. If you put the beam over the radiator, you should be able to lift approx 3" without trouble.



Hope this helps.

Jon B

Could you borrow a portable engine lift from someone (or rent it) and simply attach to the cyl. head studs?

rambos_ride

Hey Tom



I would use an engine lift (cherry picker type) - this is the best way for the least amount of damage to happen I'd pull the hood off too if it looks even close - only 4 bolts



There is nothing worse than creating more problems than one is trying to fix..

Unknown

Tom:



I need to remove oil pan on my 52' 8 this winter. According to the mechanical manual you drop the front suspension by 5 inches by replacing the existing bolts with ones that are 6 inches long, with threads that are 1 inch long. There is a tool number for these special bolts. If you want I can try and scan the pages and e-mail them.

Unknown

Tom

When I recently changed the mounts on my Wasp. I used my ... Cherry Picker ... engine hoist. I first removed the mounting bolts (two per mount) and the nut on each motor mount. The using the CP ... put it under the hood in a manner that allowed me to connect a chain with hook between the engine mount on one side and the CP hook. Two pumps on the CP hoist and the engine was off the mount ... insert mount add bolts lower the hoist repeat on opposite side. When you get to the trans mount... I offer the following.... I have ramps which I drove the car front tires upon. Then I removed the two mounting bolts and the through bolt to the transmission from the existing mount. Once this was done I maneuvered my floor jack under the transmission case. Using a small piece of plywood to insulate the jack from the transmission I raised the jack enough to free the mount. I put new mount into place. Install the transmission through bolt first then insert the bolts into the mount and lower, guiding the mounting bolts into place. Tighten bolts remove jack and drive off stands....DONE.

Good Luck, Tom

Club Coupe

Tom, if you elect to go the engine hoist (cherry picker) route and do not own one, Pep Boys had a 2 ton on sale in today's newspaper for $119.95. I'm sure that's more than a rental charge, but if you need one again, you have it ready to go.

bobbydamit

2"thick x4"high x8"long piece of wood, standing 4" to upright on top of the jack plate/foot, fits right under the vibration damper/front crankshaft pulley. Cuttting a 1" dip in the board with your band saw can help. Lift gently, just enough to clear the center mount bolt of each, and remove old mounts. Never get you fingers in between the mount and the engine leg. Drop in the new ones and start center nut and both frame bolts before lowering engine. It's good to remove the battery and cradle too for the road side one.

Rear mounts, lift the tranny on a stick, never the engine oil pan. Watch those pinkys.