Another Paint Question

Unknown

I did a search on paint systems here and still have a couple of questions before I decide what system to use. I know that Base Clear is a two stage urethane system, what is a single stage urethane? What are the pros and cons on the single stage. Is the single stage a two part system? Is the sheen level like laquer or the high gloss plastic look from a base clear?



Is a single stage difficult paint to apply? I am a novice in auto spraying but do have experience in airless and HVLP turbine equipment. The airless experience is in fine finish work not blasting paint on the exterior of buildings.



Also the clear that is used over an acrylic enamel, is it just a clear acrylic enamel or is it a urethane clear?

Unknown

Single stage urethane is a modern finish that does not require clear to be shot over it. It is much more durable and has a better shine to it than say a acrylic enamel or a lacquer. Yes, it is a two component system, three actually in most cases (paint, harderner, reducer). The pros are that you dont have to clear it (and that is a plus if you are beginner as clear is the hardest thing to get used to laying down, trust me) and it is easy to color sand and polish. I like it when shooting non-metallics in particular as I think you can really get a good, deep wet shine (as good as a two stage) and it looks more appropriate on a 40's or 50's car than a two stage. The down side is that a single stage does not hold up as well to the long term exposure of ultra violet rays and the elements as a two stage. That being said, on a Hudson or other collector car they are usually garaged so I dont see it being a big issue. I shoot with both systems and can tell you from experience that if you are just getting into painting, go with the single stage until you get used to laying down the paint and your new gun. Remember that surface preperation is 90% of getting a good finish, so take your time and dont rush. By the way, you CAN shoot clear over PPG's single stage urethanes if you so desire but from my experience the color and shine you get without it makes it a waste of time and money.

rambos_ride

SRCraftsman2 wrote:

I did a search on paint systems here and still have a couple of questions before I decide what system to use. I know that Base Clear is a two stage urethane system, what is a single stage urethane? What are the pros and cons on the single stage. Is the single stage a two part system? Is the sheen level like laquer or the high gloss plastic look from a base clear?



Is a single stage difficult paint to apply? I am a novice in auto spraying but do have experience in airless and HVLP turbine equipment. The airless experience is in fine finish work not blasting paint on the exterior of buildings.



Also the clear that is used over an acrylic enamel, is it just a clear acrylic enamel or is it a urethane clear?

Warning! Take a deep breath here.... this is a verbose post! :rolleyes:



Most early cars were painted with nitrocelluous lacquer (20 years ago it was still available but I don't know now...) So to clarify lacquer mentioned in my reply is acrylic lacquer.



I know everyone loves the new urethane paints but if you want a show quality paint job - lacquer paint is the only thing that works for me.



You'll hear all kinds of arguments that lacquer chips easily and doesn't hold up but I can tell you this from my experience - acrylic enamels and urethane paints do not wet sand and buff as flat as a lacquer paint job - Why? Buffing paint produces heat. The heat will actually moves the paint and leaves a small amount of orange peel - even when seemingly dry. Lacquer will shine up with the best of the urethanes (when polished) and it is much easier to shoot (fast dry less dust, less overspray, no isocyanates) - wet sanding is tougher (ie takes longer) (lacquer is safer to shoot than urethanes - see below)



My 1968 Chevelle was painted in 1981 with Deltron (urethane enamel) - 3 months later I sanded it down and painted it with lacquer and lacquer clear coat (go to my website and find the "My Backround" link and you can see pictures of the lacquer paint job http://www.49c8.com)



15 years later when I sold it (1/2 of that time stored outside without a cover) there was no lacquer checking or chipping and the shine was just as good as 15 years prior - the moral of the story? No matter what topcoat paint you use - it is only as good as what is underneath!!!!!



That being said - I'm shooting my 49 with urethane paint because of the color (Satin Black) and I have a booth to paint in. Painting acrylic enamels or urethanes is DANGEROUS AND REQUIRES A QUALITY RESPIRATOR AND VENTILATION! I cannot emphasize or underscore this fact enough! The isocyanates in the hardners will actually crystallize the bursa sacs in your lungs - this is irrepairable damage and some people have died from exposure to isocyanates - be extrememly careful!



As far as base coat clear coat or single stage (there are newer cars that require 3 and 4 stages) mostly it will depend on color (metallic or solid). Obviuously you cannot color sand and buff a metallic color without a clear coat. The clear coats not only provide more protection to the base color - it adds depth to the paint - this is the same solid or metallic.



If you clear coat any color make sure the color coat is as flat as can be - otherwise you will see the orange peel in the base coat even though you color sand and buff the clear.



There - that should get the discussion hopping!



Good luck and feel free to contact me anytime with questions - I painted cars for 10 years professionally and 25 years on the side - so I have pretty much done it all and seen it all in the last 35 years! :eek: