Removing Hydromatic from a stuck 308

faustmb

I purchased a complete 308 from a fellow forum member here that has a Hydromatic installed. The engine is frozen solid, it apparently had a lot of moisture as the upper cylinder walls and piston tops are badly oxidized. I have it soaking but don't expect it to free up. Can the trans be removed without completely stripping the engine? The manual I have doesn't cover Hydromatics...



Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.



Matt

[Deleted User]

Matt,



The nuts for the flywheel to crankshaft studs are inside the torus (torque converter). You need to remove the 30 torus bolts to seperate two torus halves:



http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10244&highlight=torus

Unknown

Faustmb,

Its not an easy thing if the engine won't turn over because you have to rotate the flywheel to get at all those bolts. Spend some time trying to loosen the engine up if possible, take the head off and soak the pistons with diesel fuel or something like that. I use a product called sea foam, its the best penetrating/loosening agent I've ever used. Its available at NAPA.

I had the same problem getting a transmission off of a 308 that was stuck and it was the valve guides that were frozen on it....I ended up removing the timing chain and then the engine would turn over.

Good luck.

Unknown

Also make sure you drain the torus before you loosen those bolts or you'll have tranny fluid all over the floor. Again you might have to rotate the flywheel/torus assy to get at the drain plug thats in the torus.

faustmb

I have the cylinders loaded with Marvel Mystery Oil right now - it's what I had on hand. I't's been soaking for well over a week, I haven't tried to turn it over yet. I guess I'll try to knock on the piston tops with a wood block to try to free them up a little as well. I've soaked the valves and guides ad much as possible too.



Thanks for the info...



Matt

[Deleted User]

faustmb wrote:

I purchased a complete 308 from a fellow forum member here that has a Hydromatic installed. The engine is frozen solid, it apparently had a lot of moisture as the upper cylinder walls and piston tops are badly oxidized. I have it soaking but don't expect it to free up. Can the trans be removed without completely stripping the engine? The manual I have doesn't cover Hydromatics...



Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.



Matt

I ran into the same problem awhile back Matt, and solved it by prying the bellhousing far enough away from the motor to clear the two alignment pins that keep everything straight when you bolt the two components together.



Then it was just a matter of rotating the whole transmission, and removing the 40 or so torus bolts as I went through the bottom inspection cover opening.



Baffled me big time for a bit, but once I found a solution, everything went fine, and the trans had no ill effects when reconnected after an engine rebuild. Of course the engine and trans were out on the shop floor when I did this. Also take Jim's advice and drain that torus as soon as you see the drain plug, 'cause it makes a huuuge mess if you don't have a pan under it to catch the oil.



silverone

[Deleted User]

I used this method recently also. The transmission wouldn't come back far enough to allow it to turn past the dowels. If this happens, just slide it back enough to get a hacksaw blade between the bellhousing and block and cut the dowels in half. They are soft and easy to cut. Then you can spin the transmission around to remove the bolts.

Bill

PAULARGETYPE

I Would Drop The Pan Remove The Main Bearing Bolts And Loosen And Or Remove The Rod Bearing Bolts Now The Crankshaft And The Trans Will Come Free Of The Engine Block Remember To Mark All The Main Caps And All The Rod Caps So You Can Put The Back On When You Get The Crankshaft Out Now You Can Get At All The Bolts In The Flywheel

Hudsonly

Paulargetype

Unknown

I pulled the crank shaft out of the engine with the trans on it, looked like the easiest way to me , I had soaked the stuck pistion for six months never could get it to turn.

Clutchguy

I usually just go ahead and bust the pistons out. Then turn the engine over as required. Sometimes the pistons aren't stuck,it's the valves. The engine is usually why I'm taking the trans off and I get that job out of the way.

faustmb

silverone wrote:

I ran into the same problem awhile back Matt, and solved it by prying the bellhousing far enough away from the motor to clear the two alignment pins that keep everything straight when you bolt the two components together.



Then it was just a matter of rotating the whole transmission, and removing the 40 or so torus bolts as I went through the bottom inspection cover opening.



Baffled me big time for a bit, but once I found a solution, everything went fine, and the trans had no ill effects when reconnected after an engine rebuild. Of course the engine and trans were out on the shop floor when I did this. Also take Jim's advice and drain that torus as soon as you see the drain plug, 'cause it makes a huuuge mess if you don't have a pan under it to catch the oil.



silverone

I was wondering if this was possible, but hadn't tried it yet. I think this will be my next step if the motor doesn't free up. Clutch guys recommendation is also good. I know these pistons are shot as they are just about corroded through. I think the block itself may be salvagable.



Thanks everybody,



Matt

russmaas

The easy way . Take sledge hammer to the bellhousing and you have full access to the 32 bolts. Bell housings are a dime a dozen out there. Have probably 6 on a shelf unmarried.



russ

[Deleted User]

Don't count on freeing up those pistons in a short time. I soaked the pistons on a super six that sat outside for years without the head on. I kept hitting the tops ; about once a week trying to free them up.[ I did this for almost ayear while I was building a garage] Kroll oil, penetrating oil,were in the holes all the time. I wanted to save the block. Cracked between the valve seats. Repairable, I don't know. If the piston is at the top of the stroke, your not really getting anywhere. Concentrate on the ones that are partially down the bore. I finally got it but it was a pain.

Unknown

Well I did it with the hot wrench, engine was supported by hoist,trans by floor jack with ratch strap. I removed the bolts that I could get from the bottom, removed bell bolts, cut bell housing about 2 inches from eng/trans mating surface. Then pry out torched off segment, easy access to the 30 bolts that mate torus cover to flywheel. Gave engine away, used hydro core for parts. Lou Cote

Unknown

I tore a 55 apart a while back. Pulled he timing chain. Main bearing and rod caps. Bolts out of bell housing pried back and lifted crank shaft and bell housing with transmission out Then a 12 lb sledge hammer and 3x3x8 block of hard wood beat the pistons out.