Got Door Hinges?

RL Chilton

I'd like to find a good set of hinges for a stepdown, driver door only (top and bottom). I've got two sets of them and both are beyond what I think I should reasonably repair (more than half of the thickness of the hinge is gone). It's for a 2-door, but should be the same for all models, I believe.



Anybody got an extra they would part with? Small pitting or even 1/8" deep craters I can weld up and make like new, but a really clean set would be preferred.



Thanks for any help--

53jetman

Russell - Check your parts book buddy, two door hinges are a different part number and are considerably heaver in construction to handle the added weight of the bigger door.



Jerry

53jetman

RL Chilton

53jetman wrote:

Russell - Check your parts book buddy, two door hinges are a different part number and are considerably heaver in construction to handle the added weight of the bigger door.



Jerry

53jetman

Sorry, I didn't look it up, first. O.k., looks like Conv. and Hollywoods ('48-'54)use a different hinge than even the 2-door closed cars, so, I'm probably whistling Dixie, here. Still, if anyone reading this can help me out, please let me know. It would be greatly appreciated.

[Deleted User]

Russell- It's not that hard to make one. A friend of mine and me made half of a hinge for my 53 coupe after one of the passenger door hinges broke. This was about 15 years ago so my memory is a little fuzzy on the exact process, but it was something like this. This isn't the easiest thing to describe but hopefully you'll understand what I'm saying.



We started with a piece of ~1/2" thick stock. We cut it to the width and approximate length of the hinge. Next, we milled most of it down to ~1/4" thick except for a ~1/2" long portion at one end. Next we drilled (perpendicular to the milled surface) through the 1/2" thick portion for the hinge pin. Then we heated the metal and bent up the end for the hinge pin to form the "L" of the hinge. Finally, we milled a slot into the hinge pin end to accept the portion of the hinge on the door and drilled and countersunk the holes to secure it to the body. Some hand grinding rounded off the hinge pin portion. We turned down a new hinge pin and joined the good hinge half in the door to the new hinge half mounted to the body.



It looks fine and is completely functional. It'd probably be cost-prohibitive to pay a machine shop to do this, but if you've got any amateur machinist friends, it's something the two of you could pull off over the course of a few afternoons or nights.

RL Chilton

I had thought of this, although I don't yet have a milling machine. I'm not opposed to doing this, but for the convertible, I'd like to have an original hinge. Last resort, for me, and this particular car, would be to mill a new one.

Unknown

RL Chilton wrote:

I had thought of this, although I don't yet have a milling machine. I'm not opposed to doing this, but for the convertible, I'd like to have an original hinge. Last resort, for me, and this particular car, would be to mill a new one.

Russell

Sunday nites me and my Bestest Friend take time and go do something together. Usually we end up at the local Barnes and Noble Booksellers. Last Sun nite I grabbed a few of my favorite mags and sat down to enjoy a cup of coffee and a scan of the books. One was the Old Cars restoration guide... never saw that before. Lots of good hobbiest How To Do stuff in that issue. Either in that book or one of the new Rat rod mags was an article on hinge repair. Same type of hinges used in a Hudson. I remember thinking this would be good information for the Hudson restorer. Sorry to be vague, but this is exactly the type of information one needs to repair or renew a Hudson hinge.

Good Luck.... try the Falks in Nebraska. Contact information on my webstie.

RL Chilton

Thanks, Ken. I think I sent an e-mail to everyone I could think of, but forgot the Falkes'.



Ironic about the B & N. Vicki and I did the exact same thing this morning. I was perusing a book on paint and body work, though instead of my usual car rags.



Thanks for the tip.

[Deleted User]

Russell:

A friend of mine made a brougham hinge from a 4dr sedan hinge. I think he welded up the two holes furthest out and added metal to make it longer(for a brougham), then drilled new holes, I'm using it now. The location of holes are critical, mine are close but cant be tightened until all are started. It works. Good luck. Bob

russmaas

I have never noticed any difference in hinges from 2 or 4 doors and even convertibles. Have rebuilt hinges from 4 doors and put them on convertibles. They fit the exact same and bolt pattern is the exact same. Usually the 4 door hinges are in better shape and have less wear do to the weight difference. Can any one put the two together and see a difference? Part numbers aside, I have never seen a difference. So I doubt there is. Now the rear door hinges are completly different. But the fronts work w/o problems



russ

russmaas

russmaas wrote:

I have never noticed any difference in hinges from 2 or 4 doors and even convertibles. Have rebuilt hinges from 4 doors and put them on convertibles. They fit the exact same and bolt pattern is the exact same. Usually the 4 door hinges are in better shape and have less wear do to the weight difference. Can any one put the two together and see a difference? Part numbers aside, I have never seen a difference. So I doubt there is. Now the rear door hinges are completly different. But the fronts work w/o problems



russ

Also a quick note, the only differnece may be how the were twisted for clearence at the jams. But the physical make up of the hinges are the same. I put every thing together and used a sock buch up at the hinge when closing to raise or lower the back of the door. Then use a torch and heat up the hing about 2 inches form the pin and bend the hing forward or back for proper jam clearences.

RL Chilton

Thanks, Russ. I compared the hinges I took off of the 'vert this morning to the ones on my sedan, and I didn't see any difference, although If there was a difference, it must be in the "twist" as you mentioned. I've run into this before with the Master Parts Catalog. Sometimes I think if Hudson changed vendors, then a new part # got issued, although the newly supplied parts would be identical to the previous supplier's.