Floor Pan Sealer

[Deleted User]

OK, I am getting my tranny and clutch out to get the clutch repaired.



I noticed my floor pans had a layer of surface rust under the padding.



Wire brush via angle grinder cleans it up nicely.



Would putting a coat of fiberglass resein by a decent product to use to help seal them?



And when I put it back together, what gue do you recommend at the tranny cover seam?



And what underlayment padding is good to use?

russmaas

POR 15 or equivalent would be perfect for this. Dont use w/o latex gloves! For the trans cover, I would use flexible seam sealer

Russ

bent metal

russmaas wrote:

POR 15 or equivalent would be perfect for this. Dont use w/o latex gloves! For the trans cover, I would use flexible seam sealer

Russ

I agree. ...If you have any holes you could also use "Kitty Hair". It's easier to work with than fiberglass, IMO. But if you have any holes bigger then a pencil, or if the panel is real thin I would consider welding in something.

mdwhit

bent metal wrote:

I agree. ...If you have any holes you could also use "Kitty Hair". It's easier to work with than fiberglass, IMO. But if you have any holes bigger then a pencil, or if the panel is real thin I would consider welding in something.

Hey Bent Metal, what is "Kitty Hair"? Also, when you say bigger than a pencil, I take it that you mean the diameter of the wood, right (not the lead)? I have a rusted floor board hole about a 1/4 inch in dia. and was thinking of just plugging it with seam sealer. The metal around it is not weak. Just thinking out loud...but also wondering what your comments might be.

50C8DAN

I used the stuff advertised on this site, Rust Bullet. Worked great!



http://www.rustbullet.com:80/Products/Automotive/Automotive.htm

37 CTS

Additional tip on Por 15 and similar products. put a piece of saran wrap on the can before putting the lid on. It may not come off if you don't.

Also keep cool or in summer refrigerate to keep product fresh.

Wear throw away clothes and latex gloves. Use old paint brushes.

Some sources have it avaible in clear.

Great stuff!!

coverton

I agree on POR 15 and Kitty Hair, both are fairly easy to use,but if possible cut or grind out all rust.My favorite fix for a floor pan is to take a cutoff wheel to the bad area and remove it.Then make a cardboard pattern, cut out some flat stock,use a bead roller for the stress groves and then bead the new metal-usually 18ga stock - into/under the cut out area. The next trick I like is "Fosor" it is made by Lord Chemical of cary, NC and will stick metal forever. simple clamp with paint sticks to keep the clamp from sticking helps but it wont let go and looks just like the original. Much easier than welding and i have done both in class-the fosor makes a neater bead and does not require a tenth of the time.You will have a"new" floor with out buying a reproduction.Plus you did it yourself. Fosor is avaliable at most auto paint mixing stores

bent metal

mdwhit wrote:

Hey Bent Metal, what is "Kitty Hair"? Also, when you say bigger than a pencil, I take it that you mean the diameter of the wood, right (not the lead)? I have a rusted floor board hole about a 1/4 inch in dia. and was thinking of just plugging it with seam sealer. The metal around it is not weak. Just thinking out loud...but also wondering what your comments might be.

Kitty Hair is basically a bond-o with pieces of fiberglass shredded into it. And yes I meant the diameter of the pencil. You can put some tape on the underside to keep the kitty hair from just falling through and apply to the top side. It sands smooth just like bond-o. I would sand blast first, you can use one of those small sand blasters that are self contained and reuse it's own sand. After that you can evaluate the situation. If the holes look bigger or the panel gets flimsy after the sand blasting, you should probably get more serious about the repair and consider welding in a patch or a whole new floor. ....That's my two cents.:)

mdwhit

bent metal wrote:

Kitty Hair is basically a bond-o with pieces of fiberglass shredded into it. And yes I meant the diameter of the pencil. You can put some tape on the underside to keep the kitty hair from just falling through and apply to the top side. It sands smooth just like bond-o. I would sand blast first, you can use one of those small sand blasters that are self contained and reuse it's own sand. After that you can evaluate the situation. If the holes look bigger or the panel gets flimsy after the sand blasting, you should probably get more serious about the repair and consider welding in a patch or a whole new floor. ....That's my two cents.:)

Thanks, Bent Metal. I going to try using it.

Unknown

For underlay, you have several choices; the silver backed sound and heat stuff you get in a roll, or go to your friendly carpet store and get some of their better grade of carpet padding-not the foam type. Lou Cote

[Deleted User]

For those interested in more information about the "Fusor" metal adhesive mentioned in Coverton's post, here is a link to the product page and some repair techniques using it. The adhesive has some real usefulness when welding is difficult/impractical.

http://www.lord.com/Home/ProductsServices/Adhesives/FusorAutomotiveAftermarketProducts/Products/MetalAdhesives/tabid/3400/Default.aspx



Tom