Adjusting a Hand-i-shifter

Unknown

I am seeking assistance in correcting a shifter jam problem with the hand-i-shifter in my 1953 Wasp.

History:

About three years ago the clutch in my car was changed. At the same time the transmission was removed resealed and replaced. Along with the clutch change, the transmission mount, clutch throw out arm rubber bushings, flywheel pilot bearing, and bushings in the clutch cross shaft and the bushings in the linkage ends were replaced. The clutch linkage arm from the frame to the bell housing was also reparied to correct centering. All the adjustments for linkage arms and shifter were made using the Hudson mechanical procedures manual. Nothing appeared to out of tolerance and adjusted per instructions.

Every since the clutch was changed the hand-i-shifter will miss shift and jam. Usually when shifting from 1st to 2nd. At this time the shifter mechanically locks between gear selection points. The only way to clear the jam is to lift the hood and mechanically pull or push as needed on the transmission shift levers at their connections on the hand-i-shifter. Jamming does not occur on every shift, but has become more frequent.

Thinking the hand-i-shifter was at fault, I removed it and replaced it with another assembly which was identical to the one removed. Before installing, the replacement it was inspected and I did not see any wear. I reassembled and installed the replacement in the car. Once again all adjustments were completed per the Hudson mechanical procedures. The out come was no improvement in shifting and the same jam shift problem as before.

Note: The hand-i-shifter is aligned to the steering tube and anchored by the clamp in accordance with the manual. The linkage mounting does not move about the tube when making shifts.

I believe the double lever transmission to be mechanically ok but now having replaced the shifter I am back to wondering what part(s) are at the root of the problem.

- Have any of you had this problem?
- Does anyone know of a fix for this problem?

Gets pretty risky to drive anywhere when the shifter likes to lock up! :mad:

Any assistance is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Clutchguy

Ken,it sounds like the lock-out barrel from 1-R to 2-3 is trying/is jamming. Proper adjustment of the shift rods are needed and then if no help,try to duplicate the jam by manually putting slight pressure on one gate while trying to shift to the other gate. That sounds confusing but you will be able to determine if it is the shifter lock inside the trans. These do wear out and cause shifter lock up. Also,Make sure everything is lubed and oiled well.The shifter bushings also need to be in good condition. When you replace the trans mount,the linkage will change. Also,when you resealed the trans-primarily,when you installed new seals on the shift shafts,how did you install them?. With the shifter arms removed from the trans,do they move very freely?,no binding or hard to rotate the shift levers. If it worked perfect before,and now it doesn't?? it is very doubtful it is the clutch,the cross shaft,the throw-out bearing or any of the clutch linkage. If those items all work with it sitting still and are adjusted right??,prob.not any of the concern. Somethings are hard to diagnose online?/. Well,hope this helps

[Deleted User]

Ken, had the same problem with some late 70's chevy trucks we bought new for the water company I worked for. Eventually chevies fix was to make the trucks floor shifters. The linkage on the column just had a problem that never could be fixed by the dealer. I know this is different as the Hudson shifted for years before it started jamming but I think Clutchguy is on the right track. Have someone watch the levers as you move the lever and eventually you will see the binding that is causing the problem. I think you will find an adjustment that is just barely out so it works sometimes but others are just enough out to cause the jamming. Good luck with this, I'm sure you will get it straightened out.



Harry

[Deleted User]

Heart Of Texas wrote:

I am seeking assistance in correcting a shifter jam problem with the hand-i-shifter in my 1953 Wasp.

History:

About three years ago the clutch in my car was changed. At the same time the transmission was removed resealed and replaced. Along with the clutch change, the transmission mount, clutch throw out arm rubber bushings, flywheel pilot bearing, and bushings in the clutch cross shaft and the bushings in the linkage ends were replaced. The clutch linkage arm from the frame to the bell housing was also reparied to correct centering. All the adjustments for linkage arms and shifter were made using the Hudson mechanical procedures manual. Nothing appeared to out of tolerance and adjusted per instructions.

Every since the clutch was changed the hand-i-shifter will miss shift and jam. Usually when shifting from 1st to 2nd. At this time the shifter mechanically locks between gear selection points. The only way to clear the jam is to lift the hood and mechanically pull or push as needed on the transmission shift levers at their connections on the hand-i-shifter. Jamming does not occur on every shift, but has become more frequent.

Thinking the hand-i-shifter was at fault, I removed it and replaced it with another assembly which was identical to the one removed. Before installing, the replacement it was inspected and I did not see any wear. I reassembled and installed the replacement in the car. Once again all adjustments were completed per the Hudson mechanical procedures. The out come was no improvement in shifting and the same jam shift problem as before.

Note: The hand-i-shifter is aligned to the steering tube and anchored by the clamp in accordance with the manual. The linkage mounting does not move about the tube when making shifts.

I believe the double lever transmission to be mechanically ok but now having replaced the shifter I am back to wondering what part(s) are at the root of the problem.

- Have any of you had this problem?
- Does anyone know of a fix for this problem?

Gets pretty risky to drive anywhere when the shifter likes to lock up! :mad:

Any assistance is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

To start with, your problem is at the bottom of the steering tube. Reverse and Low lever is not lined up with the 2nd and 3rd lever. First make sure your shift tube is straight top to bottom. You have to loosen the clamp at the bottom to align. There is a spring at the bottom that holds them together that has to be adjusted. Unhook one shift rod going to the trans. Now install a 1/4 inch rod or a phillip screw driver through both holes in the lever, this aligns both levers. Now adjust the lever you removed to align with no play so as pin slides through. If you have the Hudson manual 1948 to 1952, go to page 8-28 and reread the adjustment procedures. Walt.

Geoff

Ken, my Jet has tha same problem, and it is due to wear in the pin and slots of the shifters at the bottom of the column. I fitted a ne wpin when I rebuilt the car 20 years ago, but did not build up the wear in the slots, and as the pin wore a bit, the problem has recurred. I live with it, due to the fact I have too much to do on other peoples' cars than have time to fix my own! How I prevent it happening is to llod my hand under the gear stick and exert an upward pressure as I move it out of low gear. This ensures a clean disengagement of the lever, and prevents the pin from dropping into the worn slot. One of these days I'll get around to fixing it.

Geoff.

Clutchguy

Something that needs to be mentioned in this situation and can be used in other sinario's dealing with other parts of your cars. When you replace a part with another AND IT DOES NOT REPAIR/FIX THE PROBLEM,Don't assume the problem is something else! Always diagnose the problem. I have proven this to myself over the years. I have proven it to many,many others also,including my Dad!! Just because it does the same thing as it did before-whatever it is-doesn't mean it isn't the problem. I here alot of times about how good the presure plate looks inside after I cleaned it all out?/,and it runs in oil and once cleaned out-only means that it is cleaned out and shiny,does not mean that it is set up correctly or is not worn out. Diagnose,restore and/or rebuild.

Unknown

Thank you to all who have provided input. I am off to the garage to retrieve the removed shifter assembly to do a through inspection. The outcome of that will provide needed insight. In turn I will also inspect and adjust as advised. Yes, I have the mechanical proceedures manuals. Those adjustments are burned into my brain. But, it will not hurt one bit to reinspect, and add the inspections advised here. Clutch guy, I did not check the transmission for hard shifting, but will. I know the detents are working. It never occured to me that the shift movements might be too tight. Also the comments about how the shifter should operated ...pins and clearances did not fall on deaf ears. Thanks again. Will post a summary of what I find when I complete these tasks.

[Deleted User]

Ken, The remedy that helped my 76 chevy pu was to swap the nylon bushings on the linkage where it went into the shift forks at the bottom of the steering column with bronze bushings.
Bob

Unknown

Thanks for the tip BJ. I have new rubber bushed with steel inserts for each of the linkage arms. I also purchased new Rubber inserts for the other end of the shift linkage. With all the good support I am getting here.. I am bound to find and fix this Gremlin.