Stock Rims and Radial Tires

Unknown

This thread is not about the pro's and con's of mounting radials on stock rims, I have read the past posts and heard the stories and I will decide which way I want to go.

However I do have a question, Of those individuals who have had rim problems or those who have first hand knowledge of rim problems what tire pressure was being used at the time of failure.

Fred

32 lbs on my 48Comm. eight 4dr on my way to Aubourn last year @ 75mph. Rim showed indication of progressive failure with some corrosion.

Fred

Fred

radial tires. Sorry I forgot to include that.

Fred

[Deleted User]

SRCraftsman2 wrote:

This thread is not about the pro's and con's of mounting radials on stock rims, I have read the past posts and heard the stories and I will decide which way I want to go.

However I do have a question, Of those individuals who have had rim problems or those who have first hand knowledge of rim problems what tire pressure was being used at the time of failure.

Walt here; The only problems are those with rusted rims. My Hornet with original rims that came with car and now using Radials for 119,300 miles have had no problems. Tire shops cause the problems on all cars using the air gun to install wheels. Did you know that every manufacture has a set torque spec for tightening rims? Hudson rims are 65 foot pounds set in three (3) stages. Radial tires have tire pressure listed on the sides. Mine call for 44 pounds but I set them at 38lbs.

[Deleted User]

I ran radials on my 53 Hornet with stock wheels with no problems. The handling was so much better that I'd never consider going back to bias ply tires.



Note that the pressure printed on the side of a tire is the maximum allowed inflation pressure determined by the tire manufacturer, not the recommended pressure. The recommended tire pressure is set by the vehicle manufacturer.



Now since radial tires weren't available when Hudsons were being manufactured, you're kind of on your own here. No doubt Walt has put enough miles on his car to know that 38 PSI works well. Too much or too little pressure will show up as abnormal tire wear (too little- excess wear on outside edges, too much- excess wear in the center of the tread.)

harry54

I've been running 225 75 r 15 's on my 54 hornet sedan... 30,000 miles on them no problem.... running 28 psi... softer ride.... stock rims.. don'

t seem to be an issue...

Unknown

I run radials on my wasp and love the handling and ride. The only thing is they throw the hubcaps off periodically when I go around a corner at low speed. This means those rims are flexing and for this reason I'm thinking of switching to Chrysler rims on the front.

SuperDave

Jimalberta wrote:

I run radials on my wasp and love the handling and ride. The only thing is they throw the hubcaps off periodically when I go around a corner at low speed. This means those rims are flexing and for this reason I'm thinking of switching to Chrysler rims on the front.

Me Too. Mine flex enough to rub on the calipers. I thought Iwas the only one to notice the flexing. I am looking for a couple Mopar rims for mine.

Unknown

Jimalberta wrote:

I run radials on my wasp and love the handling and ride. The only thing is they throw the hubcaps off periodically when I go around a corner at low speed. This means those rims are flexing and for this reason I'm thinking of switching to Chrysler rims on the front.

SuperDave wrote:

Me Too. Mine flex enough to rub on the calipers. I thought Iwas the only one to notice the flexing. I am looking for a couple Mopar rims for mine.

What's the tire pressure in your tires?

hornet53

SuperDave wrote:

Me Too. Mine flex enough to rub on the calipers. I thought Iwas the only one to notice the flexing. I am looking for a couple Mopar rims for mine.

I have heard of guys having the wheel centers doubled up to solve the flexing problem. Not sure of the specifics. But it sounds like it would be stronger than the MOPAR (gasp!!!) wheels.

Unknown

hornet53 wrote:

I have heard of guys having the wheel centers doubled up to solve the flexing problem. Not sure of the specifics. But it sounds like it would be stronger than the MOPAR (gasp!!!) wheels.

Miller's Motors had a display of Hudson factory severe duty rims and looking at them closely that is what had been done. Later Hudson, 55 on, and Mopar rims have a lip bent at the center hole to reinforce this area.

[Deleted User]

SuperDave wrote:

Me Too. Mine flex enough to rub on the calipers. I thought Iwas the only one to notice the flexing. I am looking for a couple Mopar rims for mine.

Walt here. The reason for flexing is because the wheels have been over torqued. Once the lug hole is stretched, the wheel is now weakened at the center. That is why hub caps run off. Good idea, change those rims. I drive my Hudson at speeds up to 105, hit curves and no problems. 10 times across this country, ocean to ocean, and this year will be another one of those trips. Will stop at Pontiac, MI on the way home. See you all there.

[Deleted User]

harry54 wrote:

I've been running 225 75 r 15 's on my 54 hornet sedan... 30,000 miles on them no problem.... running 28 psi... softer ride.... stock rims.. don'

t seem to be an issue...

Do you drive them 500 miles a day at that pressure? I use 38 set when cold. My first set was COKERS, set at the tire recommended pressure and blew all 4 when I got to Florida. 2,250 miles. My radials now go 10,000 miles in each trip, 38 cold and lasted 90,000 miles. Follow tire recommended tire pressure, if maximum, drop off 5 lbs. Walt.

harry54

Walt,

At 38 psi , don't you get a much more harsh bouncy ride ? Doen't it beat up the front and rear suspension ?

7XPacemaker

walt's garage-53 wrote:

Walt here. The reason for flexing is because the wheels have been over torqued. Once the lug hole is stretched, the wheel is now weakened at the center. That is why hub caps run off. Good idea, change those rims. I drive my Hudson at speeds up to 105, hit curves and no problems. 10 times across this country, ocean to ocean, and this year will be another one of those trips. Will stop at Pontiac, MI on the way home. See you all there.

Walt,



If overtorquing of the wheel is the case for the hubcaps flying off, is there a minimum and a maximum diameter for the lug hole? With the taper of a factory lug, there must be a go or no go limit. How can you tell? This is an interesting topic. I am not doubting what you say, I just don't understand how an individual can tell if their rims have EVER been overtorqued. Do you have to wait until a hubcap passes you?

[Deleted User]

7XPacemaker wrote:

Walt,



If overtorquing of the wheel is the case for the hubcaps flying off, is there a minimum and a maximum diameter for the lug hole? With the taper of a factory lug, there must be a go or no go limit. How can you tell? This is an interesting topic. I am not doubting what you say, I just don't understand how an individual can tell if their rims have EVER been overtorqued. Do you have to wait until a hubcap passes you?

When you mount the rim on the drum, if you can move the rim left to right more than 10 to 15 thousands of an inch, your rims have been overtorqued. You will also notice that the taper is much larger and flared out. Hudson rims all take 65 foot lbs of torque in 3 steps. 40-55 and then 65 using a torque wrench that clicks when you reach it's setting. All todays cars have a torque setting that must be followed. My wife's P T CRUISER takes 78 foot pounds. Some Chevy SUV's take 125 foot lbs. Stay away from using an air gun to tighten rims. Walt.

Lee ODell

Right on Walt. I've seen some wheels where the holes are enlarge enough that the lug nuts actually bottom out on the brake drum instead of tightening the wheel. Another visible sign of overtightening is if the lug nut or lug bolt tapers are worn. No longer having a smooth and even taper. And for those that modify with custom aluminum wheels, use some anti seize compound on the lug nuts. Without it, the aluminum will stick to the lug nut and enlarge the hole when the nut is removed later. Something else I do on a questionable wheel is to put the lug nut against the wheel taper and check the back side of the hole. If the nut is near or sticking out past the backside of the hole replace the wheel. Especially with new custom wheels. Make careful inspection of the lug nuts that they match the hole correctly. All custom wheels do not all have the same type of holes. Some wheels are cast thicker than others. Some have a hole straight through and some have a taped hole. Therefore, some lug nuts have a taper and some are straight. The straight lug nuts come in different lenghts. If the lug nut is too long it will tighten against the drum and not tighten the wheel. Lee

Lee ODell

If the lug nuts are worn badly the should also be replaced. Lee

[Deleted User]

harry54 wrote:

Walt,

At 38 psi , don't you get a much more harsh bouncy ride ? Doen't it beat up the front and rear suspension ?

With radials, set at the correct pressure there in no such thing as a harsh ride. Radials are made to flex. But with low pressure they will ruin the side walls. Check on side wall and go 5 lbs less, that is with cold tires, for when they get hot you will be near the recommended pressure. Bias ply tires on Hudsons were set at 24 or 26. Not radials. Walt.