what colour front suspension frame rails

[Deleted User]

From previous threads I've learned that the underside of stepdowns came out of the factory with a primer finish, and my car is no exception. I've found a really, really nice tough as nails primer finish where I've scraped off some of the undercoat.



I've also learned that the steering box, pitman arm, etc. was apparently left unfinished, but I'm concerned about rust if I leave these items "raw", so maybe I'll cheat and clearcoat them with satin finish or some such. Also the hood hinges and support arms, I'm told were raw unfinished steel, so same situation there. (was there any type of rust protection used on the unfinished parts --- oil maybe?)



So now I need to know what was done with the frame rails, crossmember, suspension, ( springs, sway bar, A-arms, etc.) Were they just painted black, and the frame rails painted black right back to the ends under the body if they were?



What about the firewall? Same colour as body ? How far under if so, before going to primer finish? Upper edge of front floor pans painted body colour in engine compartment? Underside of front floor pans primer?



What about underside of hood? Paint? Body colour?



Where can I get the same as stock insulation for underside of hood? How about same as stock firewall cardboard panels under dash?



Just full of questions today !



silverone.

RL Chilton

Silverone-



Sent you an e-mail.

Unknown

I vote for the entire chassis being black.



As far as the firewall, I've seen a few 54's (maybe end of the run) that had red oxide primer firewalls. However, they should be body color.



As far as I know, the underside of the hood should be body color.



The closest you can come to matching hood insulation would be to buy a generic square shaped piece of material and glue it on. I've yet to do that since I cringe at the thought of using glue. Cardboard stock could probably be purchased from a Lincoln parts vendor (name escapes me) that make reproduction trunk kits. The material would probably be approriate for use on the package shelf as well.

37 CTS

May I suggest that you visit a body shop supply house and obtain some Hi Temp adhisive spray to use to hold the insulation in place. Spray both hood and insulation and when tacky join then.

It is highly reccomended to insulate the hood to protect the paint from engine heat and well as noise reduction.

Unknown

I have it, just don't want to use it.

[Deleted User]

Took a good look at the front clip on a couple of my stepdowns and could find no evidence of paint or even primer anywhere ! All had that nice rusty patina from stem to stern. Just surface rust, mind you, nothing structural or scary.



I guess they came off the factory floor without paint, but this just won't do for a resto that should last thirty years or so. Looks like I'll maybe have to clearcoat them too, if I can get that in "satin" finish, because I don't want them to look like plastic when they're done. Same goes for the paint,

---

I've seen a lot of cars "overdone with multi layers of paint, then multi layers of paint mixed with clear, then multi layers of clear, and the finish, while admitedly spectacular --- looks like the car was dipped in plastic !! Great for rods, resto rods, mods, etc, but way overboard for a hudson in my opinion.



I doubt hudsons on the showroom floor looked like they were made of plastic, and probably had a bit of "orange peel" surface in the paint too. No, I don't plan to do my convert in "orange peel", but I do want the car to look like its made of good 'ol US steel.



My hood hinges, and support arms on the coupe were done in clear powder coat, and they came out kind of a grey color, but they too, look like they were dipped in plastic, so here I go again.



Maybe I'll do them in galvanized, but that'd probably be too shiny !!



Sometimes, (on rare occasions) I can even out-fussy myself !!



silverone

Unknown

silverone wrote:

Took a good look at the front clip on a couple of my stepdowns and could find no evidence of paint or even primer anywhere ! All had that nice rusty patina from stem to stern. Just surface rust, mind you, nothing structural or scary.

I guess they came off the factory floor without paint, but this just won't do for a resto that should last thirty years or so. Looks like I'll maybe have to clearcoat them too, if I can get that in "satin" finish, because I don't want them to look like plastic when they're done. Same goes for the paint,

---

I've seen a lot of cars "overdone with multi layers of paint, then multi layers of paint mixed with clear, then multi layers of clear, and the finish, while admitedly spectacular --- looks like the car was dipped in plastic !! Great for rods, resto rods, mods, etc, but way overboard for a hudson in my opinion.


I doubt hudsons on the showroom floor looked like they were made of plastic, and probably had a bit of "orange peel" surface in the paint too. No, I don't plan to do my convert in "orange peel", but I do want the car to look like its made of good 'ol US steel.

My hood hinges, and support arms on the coupe were done in clear powder coat, and they came out kind of a grey color, but they too, look like they were dipped in plastic, so here I go again.

Maybe I'll do them in galvanized, but that'd probably be too shiny !!

Sometimes, (on rare occasions) I can even out-fussy myself !!

silverone

There is a clear satin coat made and it comes in spray cans. You could also use just one coat of clear lacquer. POR 15 makes a special paint that supposed to imitate unfinished steel, but I think it is too gray. I used a clear satin lacquer I had in a spray bomb. I do not how well it is going to hold up.

If you want to take the time, those pieces polish up real well. They did not do that at the factory, but think of all the BLING.