trim removal

[Deleted User]

ok...maybe a dumb question but how does one go about removing the body trim of a 53 hudson superwasp cp. All the trim is there and in great shape and I would like to keep it that way. Prep the car for a total restore. I tried a univer tool but like I said...don't want to force it and bend it all too crap. Also how do you remove the window trim around the back window. Any info would greatly be appre. Thanks. Ron

Unknown

It would be much easier for me to explain if you call me (210)584-5856.



First though do not use the putty knife method or universal tool method by itself. The best way is to fashion a stick about 18 to 24 inches long with a very long tapered point on one end and use it in conjunction WITH your putty knife

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it's best to call me on the subject.

russmaas

If your are doing a total resto. Then take the fenders and quarters off and grind down the screws on the back. Then take putty knife and hammer and put the putty knife between the screws and retainer and hit the screw down. Once the screws are out the retainer and stainless will fall off in one piece. Then take you cut off wheel and carefully grind the back of the retainer in half all the way across the entire piece. Becareful not to get into the stainless. The retainer will basically pull out and your stainless has no waves and the stainless will retain the natural curve it is supposed to have.



Then go back and weld up the holes on the sheet metal. They no longer will be used. Use KGAPS stainless retainers and space 6 to 8 inches in between.



Most of the screws on the door can be grounded down also. Just have patience.



Russ

Unknown

It's best to keep and use the original retainers if at all possible, the repop retainers are slightly wider than the originals and create distortion at each place on the stainless where it comes in contact with the retainers.



The stick and knife method will work perfectly with no damage to the trim.

Unknown

Also if you are going to do what ruussmuss has sugested you'll not have any of your original screws to use for reinstallation. Many people will try to install the trim with improper (pan head) screws and damage the trim when going back on.



No disrespect intended russmuss, I've just found a new method that works amazingly well

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seriously

russmaas

No disrespect back at you, but you must have not worked on a car with a rusted retainer. Also kgap retianers fit very well. Just put a complete set on last week for mid and lower door body panels. no distortion seen. they popped on like butter

Unknown

They could have changed a bit from the earlier runs possibly.



Oh trust me I've worked with some of the rustiest retainers you could imagine. What happens is the stick if shaped properly will take the trim off almost and in some case all by itself.



The retainers will always need reshaping afterward but the trim even gets repaired some in the process.



I've de trimmed and reinstalled trim on at least twenty or more step-downs and that includes from the very rust free to the ones with horrible rust issues.



The stick just lifts that trim off a rusty retainer lickity-split.



sorry for misspelling your name too

[Deleted User]

Yup agree with Russ. Never reused the side retainers yet. I use new screws and new retainers. Not going to all that trouble and put the rusted old stuff back on. Even if it has been media blasted it will see be shot. In fact in all the cars I have done never found side retainers that weren't shot to crap. Having the complete trim length retainer trapped water. Best to do as Russ says and space them. Easy to get the correct stainless steel screws.



And there is no rocket science to getting trim off. Make sure you spray a lot of release agent along the trim. Do it for a day or two before you take it off. Use a Richards paint scraper and the plastic trim removal kit you can get from any auto store. And move SLOWLY along trim. Just removed all the trim off a 54 sedan and a 54 Hollywood didn't damage or nick any of it. Took me two days taking my sweet time.

Unknown

Well to each is own I guess but I've used poor15 on many side trims and re-used them with no trouble at all.



I can de-trim an entire Hudson in four or five hours with no damage using the stick.



Guess it's your car, your call

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and

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your choice

duncan

Hi all I took our retainer strips to have them cadium plated look like new

Ray

duncan

:DHi again I am looking for an original retainer strip for the drivers side front fender. Are the front fenders on a hornet the same length as a hornet special. Hhanks Ray

[Deleted User]

I know its not rocket science but I was told that the trim was glued on or the trim thats finishes up the sides of the back window....wasn't sure if those used retainer clips or are fastened from the inside. Like I said...I'm new to hudsons and this car is in too good of shape to mess something up. I fig I would just ask those who have been into hudsons.

[Deleted User]

Should be no glue on the side trim of the rear window there will be screws though. Only place I have seen glue is some like to silicone the trim that sits on top of the rubber seal. But now that I think of it I have seen some side trim where guys have run a bead of silicon down the side to protect it from water. Did not come that way from the factory though. Since you are going for total install you can cut the rear window seal to make sure the trim separates safetly.



You should with visual inspection be able to tell if the trim has been glued. You can never have enough rust release I use liquid wrench seems to work really nice I use the plastic tube that comes with it and run it down the sides for a couple of days to free up. Got the complete stainless off two cars without a scratch. Took my time because I got plenty of that and not so much replacement stainless.



Here is a link from Ken Cates site about removing trim its pretty good.



http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/PDFFiles/Removing%20Hudson%20Trim.pdf

Hudson Grandpa

WOW if I could put pics on here I could give you a blow by blow pic view of how I did mine on the Hornet cpe, gettin ready for a paint job. #1 every car and trim is different. Some you can save if your good at it, and some you cannot. I went by the Bill A method. Plenty of WD-40 to melt some of the rust, and then plastic trim removal parts I got from Harbor Freight, along with the wooden idea of Ricks. Once you do one trim, thats your education on the next one. All my trim is off. I have saved all but the rear right and rear left. Clips that is.. To far gone with rust. Plent of WD-40 on the rear window trim. You will be surprised at how resilient stainless trim is. I was...Use a rubber mallet and pry carefully. Once it starts to loosen up you will see where you have to go to pry the next part loose.

On the rear window you take the clip off the middle, and then start with the back end first. Get it loose a little and then start with the front and work to the back. You will then see what you have to do to get the rest of it off. Getting it back on just entails putting Liquid Wrench Lubricating Oil on the inside of the stainless, and all stainless for that matter, and it will snap back on no sweat. Done it once gotta do it again. The rear window has no trim. Just a lip. Clean up the clips you think you can use, with rust remover, and then I spray them with Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood. Sand all the ends of the clips so that they are smooth that accept the stainless. All new screws, do not use 55 yr old screws.

On my car #8 X 3/8 or 1/2. I lke the 1/2's. Dellis Hudson says to use a plastic washer behind the clip to ease the stainless going back on the clip. Start removing the side stainless trim at the squared off end. Not where it comes to a point. You can bang on the trim bottom up while you are prying with the rubber mallet. You'll be surprised how much stainless banging with a mallet it will take.



You wanna come and help be put it all back on I'd be glad to have ya.

[Deleted User]

Remember when you put it on to wax the edge of the retainer it eases the stainless to snap into place.