Studs in block

Jim Kilday

I'm going to have the engine in my '46 C8 Coupe rebuilt by Harkin Machine. I want to replace the studs in the block.



Is there a source for these?



Thanks,



Jim Kilday

Ol racer

I suggest checking with Dale Cooper @ 513 821 6200. If dont have measure old studs then go to a NAPA Store and order them. Dorman Web site will have other outlets.

hudsonsplasher1

Jim Kilday wrote:

I'm going to have the engine in my '46 C8 Coupe rebuilt by Harkin Machine. I want to replace the studs in the block.



Is there a source for these?



Thanks,



Jim Kilday

You can order them from McMaster-Carr also. That's where mine came from.

Gene.

oldhudsons

getting new ones & putting them in is the EASY part; getting them out without breaking off some is the hard part!

Jim Kilday

oldhudsons wrote:

getting new ones & putting them in is the EASY part; getting them out without breaking off some is the hard part!

I assume the correct way is to remove them with a handy-dandy Snap-On Stud Remover ala an earlier thread on the subject.



And, done by someone who knows what they are doing as I surely don't. Should they be heated first, soaked in the appropriate fluid, etc??



I should have asked this initially--should the studs be routinely replaced when doing a complete engine rebuild? Or, am I just asking for trouble if the old ones appear to be all right.



I appreciate the two sources given for new ones.



One last question--should the new studs be made of stainless steel??



Thanks

SamJ

Heating them some, not hot enough to burn off the oil (with a propane torch) and then applying a good penetrating oil should help. I have had success with the strangely named Mouse Milk. http://www.mousemilk.com/ Several applications, letting them stand overnight between applications may get the job done. As everybody knows, breaking one off is a huge pain. BTW, I just took a sample down to my local independent parts dealer and they fixed me right up. And you machine shop should have them, too. :cool:

oldhudsons

Yes, you would be best off to use a stud-remover that will grab it right at the block. I make up a "jungle juice" of Marvel's Mystery Oil & WD-40 for such operations, let it soak in a few days if it will.

On the H8 it probably isn't necessary unless, after using a machinist's "flat edge" (? - not sure if proper technical name for it even tho have one), the block isn't flat.

However the high torques needed to keep headgaskets from blowing on Hornets do tend to stretch the studs so should be replaced.

oldhudsons

I would think stainless would be expensive "overkill".

Also, I periodically got them at hot rod supply shops & auto. machine shops & they will carry the very highest quality studs even though you wouldn't need that on the low compression H8 (also quicker, probably less expensive, AND you can make sure the threads are right).

[Deleted User]

stainless "cold welds" and needs some sort of lubricant to stop some severe and sudden seizure in the block. if you really want overkill, go to ARP studs

[Deleted User]

Jim Kilday wrote:

I'm going to have the engine in my '46 C8 Coupe rebuilt by Harkin Machine. I want to replace the studs in the block.



Is there a source for these?



Thanks,



Jim Kilday

Jim, Any good auto parts house that carries the Dorman line of auto fasteners will have these.

nick s

oldhudsons wrote:

I would think stainless would be expensive "overkill".

The overkill will be purely cost.
Most likely the "steel" studs you find will be considerbly stronger than stainless. Typically studs are roughly equivalent to grade 5 bolts where stainless fasteners tend to be a little stronger grade 2.

RL Chilton

Jim-



I wouldn't recommend stainless for the studs or the nuts. Stainless has a very low tensile strength being so damn hard (their brittle) and won't stand up to the stresses required. Stick with hardened steel.

Unknown

nick s wrote:

The overkill will be purely cost.
Most likely the "steel" studs you find will be considerably stronger than stainless. Typically studs are roughly equivalent to grade 5 bolts where stainless fasteners tend to be a little stronger grade 2.

Totally Stainless out of PA says they carry grade 8 stainless bolts. Just an FYI thing on what they say.

RL Chilton

SRCraftsman2 wrote:

Totally Stainless out of PA says they carry grade 8 stainless bolts. Just an FYI thing on what they say.

They've told me the same as well. But, I still wouldn't use stainless where true strength is needed. Stainless is just too brittle and worsens (or weakens) with high temps.