Thanks/Timing Gear Question

Jim Kilday

This forum is priceless--a battalion of experts at one's beck and call. Thanks for all the information on the studs--I am leaning toward the ARPs.



Where might I find a metal timing gear to replace the fiber one? Like an idiot I passed on a couple that were on E-Bay a month or so ago.

RL Chilton

Jim-



Have you checked with Dale Cooper?

Jon B

I"m assuming you're speaking of the 3x5 engine. Be sure to get the mating steel crankshaft gear for your aluminum timing gear. As I recall, the timing gear itself has a "20" stamped on it, and possibly the mating steel crankshaft gear does too.

oldhudsons

Jim - the best way to go, if you can find one, is to replace both gears with a factory kit therefore you're assured of a proper mesh/mating of the gears.

These kits have become increasingly rare & like the complete clutch throwout bearing, I buy them when I see them on eBay.

[Deleted User]

Jim Kilday wrote:

This forum is priceless--a battalion of experts at one's beck and call. Thanks for all the information on the studs--I am leaning toward the ARPs.



Where might I find a metal timing gear to replace the fiber one? Like an idiot I passed on a couple that were on E-Bay a month or so ago.

Walt here. You can not change just one gear, has to be both as the aluminum gear has a different pitch. What year car are you talking about? !946 and 1947 212 engines and the 1946 to 1952 eights had aluminum gears. 1942 down 212 engines were fiber and to install the later gear requires a little work to the front motor plate. The complete story on how to install the aluminum gear is in my Tech book, volume one on page 29. It was in the WTN, 2000 JAN-FEB issue. This work must be done. Walt.

barrysweet52

The aluminium gear is 185968. The matching crank gear is 162165 and there is also 20 marked on the gear. Many people have had the fibre gears strip with camshafts hitting the crank, breaking the camshaft. Ive stripped motors that had deep gouge marks on the rod caps. Regards, Barry

Huddy42

The Aluminium Gear is 165907 the crank gear is 166310 which relaced the early 162165 gear which may have been the fibre gear., if you can find a matched set, the number for the two gears is 165908 (Matched set ) As Walt suggests if you change from fibre to Aluminium a couple of bolts behind the gear must be changed to counter sunk screws which requires a modification to the plate, THIS IS A MUST, other wise the heads of the bolts foul on the back of the Aluminium gear.



On a side note, when I bought my 1942 Hudson Brougham (14,093 original miles) the first thing I did was to check the timing gears, and what I found was, it had a 20 degree fibre gear, this gear was different to the normal fibre gears as it had spokes and not a solid centre like the old 14 1/2 deg fibre gear and was also stamped 20 degree. I still changed it to the Aluminuim camshaft gear, I wasn't sure if the centre of these gears came loose like the early ones, as the Aluminium are all one piece.

oldhudsons

as Walt & others have said you need to replace the bolts; IF you can find one of the factory kits I mentioned, they come with the bolts, instructions, etc. (think I still have one of the kits which I intend to keep for future use).

Jim Kilday

walt's garage-53 wrote:

Walt here. You can not change just one gear, has to be both as the aluminum gear has a different pitch. What year car are you talking about? !946 and 1947 212 engines and the 1946 to 1952 eights had aluminum gears. 1942 down 212 engines were fiber and to install the later gear requires a little work to the front motor plate. The complete story on how to install the aluminum gear is in my Tech book, volume one on page 29. It was in the WTN, 2000 JAN-FEB issue. This work must be done. Walt.

It's a 1946 8-cylinder. I haven't yet pulled the cover and I just assumed the large gear would be fiber.

PAULARGETYPE

Jim While Your In There Make Sure The Fiber Space Is In There Also, It Goes Between The Cam And The Block With Out It Trouble Is Soon To Come Your Way As It Lets The Cam Move Back And It Jams With The Oil Pump Gear And Binds Up This Is The Reason Most Fiber Gears Fail. You Do Not Have To Remove The Cam To Installthe Fiber Spacer You Just Cut The Spacer With A File And Do It On And Angle So You Can Screw It Back Behind The Cam Flange It Works I've Done It A Few Times Good Luck

Jon B

By the way, if you don't have the correct countersunk bolts but you do have access to a lathe, you can machine the web of the aluminum gear to make a clearance slot for the standard bolt heads. The late, great Kelly Hinegardner machined my aluminum gear back in the 1970's and it is still working fine.

Huddy42

Another avenue which I have used with success is to machine the head of the bolts and Loctite them in. i.e make the heads of the bolts thinner.

[Deleted User]

Jon B wrote:

By the way, if you don't have the correct countersunk bolts but you do have access to a lathe, you can machine the web of the aluminum gear to make a clearance slot for the standard bolt heads. The late, great Kelly Hinegardner machined my aluminum gear back in the 1970's and it is still working fine.

You have to machine the front motor plate to clear the base of the gear. Walt.