Engine stand attachment for 308 Hudson

Courtesy Man
Courtesy Man Expert Adviser
edited November 2012 in HUDSON
How about some discussion about engine stands - types and recommendations for the Hudson stepdown 6 or 8 cyl.
Also bolts to attach engine to stand rotation plate - size and length and where to attach to engine for some rotational balance. And finally does flywheel (on std trans clutch) or flex plate need to be removed and the rear engine support plate; I imagine they do. Gert Kristiansen

Comments

  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    I would also like to know this, since I am going to be removing my L6 engine from my 49' C6 Sedan in about a month.

    Also to add, I would like to know exactly how I can attach an engine crane (cherry picker) to the L6 to pull it out of the car.
  • schillaz
    schillaz Expert Adviser
    I use one from Summit Racing its a nice heavy duty one. 130 bucks.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-918010/media/images
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Remove the cylinder head and with a chain bolted to the second center bolt hole from the front, then bolt the second center bolt hole at the rear. Remove water pump, distributor, generator, starter, oil filter if you have one, disconnect exhaust pipe, remove hood, radiator and metal around radiator, shift linkage, but if you have overdrive, remove the grille. Work very carefully and you will have no problems. Walt.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I have found it easier to remove the front floor panel so you can disconnect all the wiring and u joints from inside the car without jacking the car up . with 2 people, one inside and 1 outside running the hoist you dont have to remove the grill even with overdrive. I have never pulled the head ,water pump, just the fan, and pulled the motor with generator, distributor,etc still attached. You will have to loosen the front seat frame and tip it back.
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    schillaz- I have found a similar one back home I am going to buy later on in December.

    Larry - In my case I am going to be a full frame off restoration so I am going to be doing something close to what Walt said, less a few parts I am missing. I also need to pull the block complete so I can check its condition and overhaul it if need be. Also I do not know how it happened but my inside fender wells are torn to shreds, so i have to either find replacements or fabricate my own.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    When you have it out dont try to put it on one of those common three wheel stands. Its too much for them weight and length wise.
    Roger
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Here are some samles of good ideas ,dont recall who made them but tis is the type of support you need,
    Roger
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    Roger - Thank you soo much! now where can I get one of those?
  • 54SuperWasp
    54SuperWasp Expert Adviser
    @commodorecollector. I would want one like the orange one cause you can adjust it. What I will do, I will ask a good welder man in my area. Will put bigger wheels cause my floor is a little bit rough...Michel
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    @54SuperWasp
    I know MIG welding, so all I would need is a copy of the plans and I could fabricate one myself.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hi
    I got a simple/cheap engine stand (probably made in china) with an extra crossbar welded into place, worked out fine for me.
    No flywheel can be in place, remember these are long and heavy engines so take care.

    Last picture shows an engine stand I made out of a wooden pallet to test run the engine before putting it back.
    The main reason for running it before installation was to see that everything is working and a good/easy way to do the initial valve adjustment on a hot engine.

    / Andreas
  • TwinH
    TwinH Senior Contributor
    My current favorite stand is this chiwanese folding deal with a geared head. Has no problem
    handling the heavy Hud and the geared head makes rotation a breeze, centered approx 3" above
    the crankshaft centerline. No problem handling the plate and flywheel too. Just a matter of
    moving the washer stack from behind the bolt head to the engine side(taking the alignment dowels into account). No sag at all noted with this stand,the deck stays level. The folding deal
    frees up precious space in the shop too when not in use. The splayed folding legs also make a
    nice surface for a drip pan to lay on.

    image

    image



  • GrimGreaser
    GrimGreaser Senior Contributor
    edited November 2012
    So TwinH... What have you done to that oil pump? Full flow filtering?

    I don't trust any engine stand but the one my dad made. 3x3x1/4wall Sq. Tube, head is an inch thick and cut 'by hand'. Heh, the head was sized to fit in his lunch box so he could sneak it out of where he worked. He didn't know if the latch would hold.
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    The orange one in Tallent's post above is mine. Bought two inexpensive ones from Northern Tool or similar, and got some "next size larger" square tubing to join the two.
  • Browniepetersen
    Browniepetersen Senior Contributor
    On my stepdowns I like to take off everything in front of the firewall, the doors and rear fenders and trunk. That way I can inspect, repair, brush and paint everything. It takes a bit more time but I feel much better when I am driving it down the street. I also install the engine and tranny before I start putting any of the sheet metal back on. Call me old fastioned but I think that is the way these stepdowns should be done? I'll be starting my first 54 in a few weeks, excited to see what I run into with it.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    If I recall carrectly all the ones I posted were originaly posted here and were homemade. Due to the weight you are dealing with (around 1000 lbs for the 8cyl ).
    Roger
  • brumac
    brumac Expert Adviser
    Twin H, Regarding your full flow oil system, is the blue block just under and forward of the oil pump an oil distribution block? What is it's purpose other than for mounting a sender unit? Bruce
  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    I have been looking around a bit more at stands available on the market, and have narrowed it down to two. Which one would you recommend for holding a L6 Hudson Engine?

    http://www.kmstools.com/magnum-1500lb-folding-engine-stand-4367
    Or
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-918010/overview/
  • TwinH
    TwinH Senior Contributor
    Of those two I like the Summit one better. To me the splayed legs will provide more torsional rigidity,plus the straps from the post to the back of the legs is a nice redundant feature. Also you'll be much happier with the Summit deals all swiveling casters compared with the other that seems to have smaller wheels(harder to move) and stationary back wheels. To those who asked about my full flow oil filter setup I'll do a separate thread on that as soon as I get it fired up on the test stand.
  • schillaz
    schillaz Expert Adviser
    how about this one? it looks the same as the summit one but cheaper. Order this one up for your early Xmas gift...hahah

    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/80042/10002/-1

  • commodorecollector
    commodorecollector Senior Contributor
    Is there any difference besides the paint between the one from Jegs and one from Summit?
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