Project Creep Part 3, head, gasket, thermostat bypass, clutch....

Thanks for the reminders guys.
Here's what I did.

Thermostat I got. 180*



It had the little bleeder in it but I added an additional bleed hole.



And the bleed hole in the bypass.




Then I cleaned up some more parts and started bolting them on.
Manifold and TBI adapter.




Throttle body



How about a hub cap air cleaner?



Maybe a Hudson cap?

Hud,
Don't get too far ahead of me!!
The Twin H is already set up. Once I have this set up running and dialed in with the baseline tune then I will swap manifolds to the twin H and tweak the tune as required.

Turbo may be in my future as well but not until I build my 308.

The twin H can be setup with 2- 1bbl or 2- 2bbl throttle bodies.
Other than the final tuning and the throttle connection, which may be up to the installer to configure, the systems are done.

I don't have pics of the 2-2bbl set up yet. But given the manifold bore I don't know if the 2- 2bbl setup would be of much benefit?

All of the adapters for the 1 and 2bbl versions are back from the CNC shop and in stock.
You can reach me at sales at hamiltonfuelinjection dot com
or just call
36 zero 969 two 9 two 5
If I don't answer...the compressor is running!
I'm left coast

180* is pretty standard.
IIRC 170 is supposed to be about the lowest for an engine to be efficient.
You could run a cooler stat but if you try to go too cool then the computer will need to be adjusted or it will think your still warming up.
I'll look a little deeper into the Hudson specs.


I got the flywheel and clutch installed. I was really getting frustrated trying to find the torque specs for the flywheel.
So I finally just went with my IH 3/8" flywheel spec. Then I find a list in the clutch supplement and it said half of what I just torqued them to.....so more digging and I found a reference to the correct torque. What a roller coaster.

I went ahead and soaked the new disc in type F just cause I could.



Then wiped it off and installed it. Not real sure why the 3 corks are left out of all the new disc?



I also soaked the new throw out bearing leather seal in oil prior to install.

Once everything was torqued down I decided to drop it back in the car.
Not the most fun thing by your self and I scratch the new paint on the bottom of the pan....
But it's in.

I also added the O2 sensor to the header pipe while the engine was out.
Drill the hole



Weld in the bung



Screw in the O2 sensor.



Then dropped the engine in.




Back in it's home!

My initial thought was it was the same as they do in an automatic with the clutches and band drums by having holes that allow excess fluid a path to escape quicker for a better apply. Keeps the friction material from riding on the fluid as it is pressed together.

Then the more I thought about it then more I wondered if there was even any fluid on the clutch plate with no pressurized fluid or really hardly any fluid in the clutch.

6 oz in a clutch that size with centrifugal force slinging the fluid to the outside as it spins, how much fluid is really on the clutch plate with the engine running?

I know I should be "committed" for taking on another project with about 20 of them already in the yard!

Racer, thanks for the tip. I was planning something like that on my 308 build when using the ARP studs ad nuts.

I still need another Hudson hub cap to make my Hudson chrome air cleaner.

Thanks for the input guys.
If I can combine what everyone is saying, I should not use a seld etching primer over top of an etching acid product.

Not particular to epoxy primer.
The primer I have is the 2 part epoxy primer.

Taken from the product Kerry posted-- Picklex® 20 characteristics

Water based product (has little bit of phosphoric acid)
Environmentally safe, non-hazardous, non-toxic
Ready to use and should not be diluted

This makes it right in line with the metal prep I am using and what most of them are.
I only have a couple choices, 1. scrub with acid until I completely disolve all the rust out of the heavy pits in the metal or 2. media blast the entire metal surface.

Some other notes directly from the label.

2.Do not use self etching primer (primer which has acid in it for etching the metal surface), because it will react with Picklex® 20 coating and ruin the coating and fail the bonding. Ask the primer supplier whether the primer has acid in it (some primer has acid in it, but still is not called an “etching primer”).
3.Apply the filler on the primer instead of Picklex® 20 coating.
4.Picklex® 20 coating provides a very long term corrosion resistance, which along with a good primer & paint will provide much longer paint life than just applying the primer/paint over blasted surface.
5.After blasting, the oxidation/rusting forms immediately (called micro-rust). So apply Picklex® 20 on all metal surface (whether there is any visible rust or not) to prepare the surface rust/contamination free and keeps the surface from further rusting. This provides much better bonding with the primer and also provides a much longer paint life.
6.Try to use two part Epoxy Primer (which has no acid), because Epoxy primer provides a good corrosion resistance and along with Picklex® 20 coating, the paint life will be lot longer.


From past experience I can;'t just use some mirical product and paint right over the small rust in the pits. If done that way it's just a matter of time before the little paint worms start popping up.
What I have found is if you continually apply and scrub the panel with the metal prep without letting it dry, you can disolve the rust out of the pits. Then wash, wipe, dry with your preference. I try not to leave any residue behind.
If the metal prep is sprayed on and left to dry it will convert the rust to a black oxide. The problem with that is as you sand you can break thru the surface and are left with rust still remaining underneath.
And in time the rust worms come back to life and ruin your hard work.
I do have a small soda blaster but I'm not sure if that would be any better between residue left and how effective it is on the rust itself.
There's no fast easy way to do this unless I just stip it completely and have it dipped, but then I'm still left with the metal prep and priming choices.

I think I'm going to continue to sand and scrub with metal prep until all traces of rust are gone and then scrub the surface with brake cleaner or simply laquer thinner or acetone to remove all traces of the etch on the surface and then shoot my epoxy primer base on it. I might have to do na couple test panels first?

Thoughts?
I just don't want to do all the work and have rust pop back up from under the paint. I know we can't stop all of it especially those of use that drive then all the time, but I want to give it a fighting chance.