Epoxy garage floor paint

Park_W
Park_W Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Anyone have experience with a good garage floor treatment that has withstood rolling engine hoists and steel wheeled creepers on it?

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  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I don't have personal experience, but am interested in your findings. We're planning on coating our new shop with U-Coat-IT. Have heard very good things about this product. Let me know what you find out.



    Russell
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Park W wrote:
    Anyone have experience with a good garage floor treatment that has withstood rolling engine hoists and steel wheeled creepers on it?
    I have done a couple of these floors professionally using both PPG and Sherwin Williams products. I also would not be afraid to use Coronado's industrial line.

    The key is the same as painting anything else, prep is 75% and material and application is 25%.

    I do not feel a wash with muratic acid is sufficient, I had a failure once with it even though the specs said it could be used. The floor had a decorative faux finish applied with PPG epoxy, It hurt the pocket book to have the floor stripped and then re-done.

    If the floor had a concrete curing agent applied, it must be removed, most agents are silicon based. The best way to prep a floor is to use a shot blaster, sometimes called a Blast Trac. If you are doing a residential size floor you will probably have to rent a machine yourself. The last contractor I hired to shot blast a floor for me wanted $1000.00 just to unload his machine, a 7200 SF floor cost $1600.00 and that was 10 years ago.

    I have seen U-Coat-it advertised, Rustoleum has a two part product also for the DIY home owner. These are probably ok for parking your car as I believe they guarantee against hot tire pick-up.

    Another thing about these products is that they must be fully cured before use. Most products require 7 days, I did my garage in August and it took 14 days with the high humidity. I have run dollies on it but not engine lifts, I do have a spare engine on blocks with steel wheels that has been moved across the floor a couple of times with no adverse affect. I used PPG's 98 line epoxy.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I used DuPont Aqua-Pon. It is a 2 part mix 50/50 in various colors. Roll a couple of coats on clean cured concrete. I will use it again.



    Have a nice day

    Steve
  • TwinH
    TwinH Senior Contributor
    Mine is from www.precisionepoxy.com , been down over 10 years now and

    I abuse it every chance I get. Still looks good. Before you make the jump

    though I reccomend a side trip over to www.garagejournal.com and

    click on the board at the top,takes you to their forum and a whole section

    on flooring. Lots of info. :)
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    When I built my shop, I did pretty extensive research on this (no kidding). I learned the hard way that outdoor deck paint or some you see advertised in Hemmings that come in kits just dont cut it. When it was all said and done, I went with a two part epoxy floor paint from Sherwin Williams. You can get it from any Sherwin Williams store or find out who carries it by going to their site. Comes in Gray and other colors, I went with gray. I holds up to ANYTHING. Nothing destroys it, including brake fluid, laquer thinner, or even globs of aircraft paint remover (i found this out when I spilled a bunch). It aint cheap, but I put it down more than five years ago and when I sweep and mop the floor, it still shines like the day I put it down. Speaking of putting it down, like someone said above, it is critical that the floor be pressure washed etc before putting it down. Most mfgs recommoend using and acid etch, which I did, but I wonder if it really was necessary. Anyway, that is what I used. It is the same stuff used by many dealerships for their service areas and many aircraft hangers. Hot tires, even on a large passenger plane, will not lift this stuff. The only weakness I have found is that when I weld and get tons of hot welding spatter on it, it does leave a brown burn mark, but does not penetrate he finish. My solution to that is using a welding blanket, or just leave cool marks. It is a shop after all. If you look at my site you can see the floor...
  • rambos_ride
    rambos_ride Senior Contributor
    Dennis in NY wrote:
    .... The only weakness I have found is that when I weld and get tons of hot welding spatter on it, it does leave a brown burn mark, but does not penetrate he finish. My solution to that is using a welding blanket, or just leave cool marks. It is a shop after all. If you look at my site you can see the floor...
    I just shot beer out my nose! 35+ years in and outta shops and have never heard of anyone using a welding blanket to protect their shop floor - though I understand why you would want to! LOL!:D

    Really - I have always thought of these floor coverings as "nice to have" but also have wondered how they would hold up in a working shop environment (lot's of welding, grinding, steel wheels, dropping tools, etc...) as opposed to a hobbyist or weekend warrior using it in their garage?
  • TwinH
    TwinH Senior Contributor
    Geez Dan, I throw a blanket down too except when I get in a hurry. :rolleyes:

    I probably mop it 2-3 times a year but there is nothing that I won't do

    because of the floor finish,Actually I think its the best part of my shop.

    $$ well spent.



    [IMG][/img]goldieinpieces-motormounts071.jpg





    BTW, its pretty dirty in this pic,still I don't need a creeper to slide under

    anything.
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