Remove 308 crankshaft studs with crank in engine...
Quick question...
Can the crankshaft studs be removed with the crank in the engine?
If I have to cut them for clearance that's fine, but I can't recall how much room there is between the crank flange and block. I'll need to remove them so I can drill-tap my crank when I'm ready for my TH400 adapter setup.
Comments
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Hi I take it we are discussing the six crank studs with the rear main bearing being in place- the studs normally attach either the Hydro plate or std flywheel. On my Hornet engine on a stand the clearance is inadequate for removal - too long w/o crank removal from block - can supply photo if you like. I plan std trans for it later. Gert
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Nuts, I figured as much. Thank you. If the threads are cut off will there be enough room? Looks like I'm cutting either way.
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Let me check - Gert
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Afraid not - on my 1952 Hornet on an engine stand - with crank in and rear main attached the clearance between end of block and bolt flange is 1/2 inch (.500). This is the clearance. Then the bolt flange itself is .200 and add the crank flange(holding cut-off of bolt after your cut-off) at 3/8 and total for bolt remains is .575 - too much. I expect the bolts are hardened so no drilling them out. How about if you remove lower half of rear main and would that give you enough room - rotating the crank to allow bolt removal - If I am clear and accurate. You hate to replace rear main seal but is that and oil pan gasket the down side? Gert
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Thanks Gert, I have an old crank I've been working with to attempt to figure this out with. The measurements really help, thank you for those. Looks like I'll need to cut the heads and threads off for my little adventure... good thing I'm handy with a cutoff wheel.
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