Question on POR 15 type rust protectant / paint
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I'm looking to paint my undercarriage black / under car with a POR 15 type rust paint (similar job as in undercoating). I know POR15 is expensive and there are a number of less expensive similar products on the market. Anyone recommend any of these substitutes? Niels
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Niels, I used Paint Over Rust 15 on the floor pans of my Ranchero and was happy with the results. That stuff really adds strength to the sheet metal. Dont get any on your skin or you will wear it for weeks. Get the special thinner avalible if you want to spray it from a gun. I brushed it on and a quart did the complete inside floor pan. I think I paid about $35.00 for a quart four years ago.0
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Follow the prep procedures to get the desired protection. POR 15 is very tuff. Ditto, do not get it on your hands or any part of your body or hair. Wear old cloths you do not mind throwing away. You will not get the paint off them. Also, it oxidizes. If you want to keep a shiny surface then cover it with their top coat. I did the underside of my 34 chevy and used the cheapest brust I could buy and on smooth surfaces the paint flowed out to a very smooth shiny surface. However, over time it would oxidize without the top coat. Lee0
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nhp1127 wrote:I'm looking to paint my undercarriage black / under car with a POR 15 type rust paint (similar job as in undercoating). I know POR15 is expensive and there are a number of less expensive similar products on the market. Anyone recommend any of these substitutes? Niels
Neil:
Do you have moderate to severe rust on the undercarriage and you plan on driving through a lot of rain, snow, slush and salt? If so then spend the money for POR 15, Eastwoods rust encapsilator or Bill Hirsch's Miricle paint. If you only have surface rust being a California car and are just going to be driving the car in mostly fair weather and only being caught in the occasional rain strom then check out Coronardo Paint products. I have used their semi-gloss Rust Skat on products for years. The sheen is close to lacquer and holds up very well. The last gallon I bought was around $35.00. I can't buy it in PA anymore because of VOC regs and you may only be able to buy it in quarts and have it shipped in.
Another product you can look into is Hammerrite. The original developers sold it to Rustoleom and now it is owned by another company. I have used their flat black as a base primer with good results.0 -
Put unused portion in a smaller cotainer and put some cling wrap from the kitchen under the lid covering the threads, it will keep longer and the lid wont lock on the jar. IF YOU SPRAY DON'T BREATH THIS STUFF, USE A TOP NOTCH RESPIRAYtER , THOSE LITTLE MASKS WON'T PROTECT YOU0
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37 Terraplane#2 wrote:Put unused portion in a smaller cotainer and put some cling wrap from the kitchen under the lid covering the threads, it will keep longer and the lid wont lock on the jar. IF YOU SPRAY DON'T BREATH THIS STUFF, USE A TOP NOTCH RESPIRAYtER , THOSE LITTLE MASKS WON'T PROTECT YOU
Storing opened cans of POR 15 is difficult. Here's a hint a dealer for POR products gave me on storage, and it works! If you are not going to use the entire contents of the can, dont open the lid. Use an ice pick or awl to make two opposite holes in the edge of the top which are just large enough to start no. 12-14 sheet metal screws. Use them to access paint. To close, reinsert screw(s) and turn upside down for a moment to seal.
You can mix by rolling can, or swirling it, but don't shake. Takes a while to mix it, but again it works. I've saved contents for over a year using this method. BTW humidity causes POR 15 to set, so use on fairly low humidity days.
Haven't had any oxidation in four years where used on underside. UV seems to be the problem.
Walt-LA0 -
I used Valspar Tractor & Implement paint, low gloss black 4431-19. I had my frame sandblasted and primed and painted it. It sat outside in the elements all winter[I live in buffalo,NY] so you can imagine what abuse it took. It still looks like I just brushed it on. Its fade and chip resistant. One gallon will cover the frame and anything else on the vehicle with plenty left over. 29.99 a gallon at Tractor Supply. Great stuff Jim0
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I have used POR 15 many times and it is a good product, but it really needs top coated or it goes flat. I have been using Rust Bullet, mostly because they advertise with us and wanted to see how it performed. Rust Bullet is much like POR 15 but with UV protector and it does not seem to fade. However, I painted my rusty wheel barrel about 15 years ago without doing more than a quick wire brush job on it, painted with POR 15 and the rust has never shown its face again....a little faded, but rock solid. Eastwood sells a product too, that is equal to. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them.0
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Yes, POR-15 works great. I've used it on several projects over the last 10 years w/ no reoccuring rust what so ever. I just did my floor boards on the Hudson over the winter w/ POR. However, like mentioned above, don't get any on your hands (or clothing) because nothing removes it. Wear rubber gloves.0
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DaveFury wrote:Yes, POR-15 works great. I've used it on several projects over the last 10 years w/ no reoccuring rust what so ever. I just did my floor boards on the Hudson over the winter w/ POR. However, like mentioned above, don't get any on your hands (or clothing) because nothing removes it. Wear rubber gloves.
Before it sets you can clean it up with laquer thinner. After- good luck! Ace hardware has disposable neoprene gloves a $.29/pr here. Can use several times. Walt-LA0 -
Approx how much should I count on using to do the undercarriage of my 52 Hornet? One Gallon?0
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a couple of years ago auto restorer magazine did a side by side test of por-15 and eastwood products and went with eastwood's products. regards, tom0
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tigermoth wrote:a couple of years ago auto restorer magazine did a side by side test of por-15 and eastwood products and went with eastwood's products. regards, tom
Excellent point Tom!
For those that don't subscribe to Auto Restorer, they have NO ADVERTISEMENTS in their magazine.
Kevin C.0 -
nhp1127 wrote:Approx how much should I count on using to do the undercarriage of my 52 Hornet? One Gallon?
Niels,
I purchased and almost used 4 quarts of POR-15 @ $44.95 each, still have a little left for my '62 Buick Skylark project. After removal of 57 years old undercoating, road tar, finally sandblasting, I brushed without any thinner and put two coats on car's undercarriage; probably overkill, but also did the same for entire interior compartment. Also for interior I used seam sealer and then sprayed with Green Lizard Skin Spray & Sound Control, really looks great...I learned the hard way about getting on your skin, hair and clothes and wish I would have asked your same questions before using what I feel is a great product; no I don't own any stock in this or any other company discussed...My car is painted and I'll start posting progress pictures again.
Good Luck,
Ray0 -
I prefer Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator products because...
1. You can thin for spraying up to 20% with a good grade lacquer thinner like DTL16 instead of having to buy the POR15 reducer.
2. Eastwoods includes UV inhibitors - meaning you don't need to topcoat. POR15 will not hold up to direct sunlight because of this without a topcoat.
What I HATE is the absolute ridiculous price increases both products have taken in the last year...it's making me start to re-think my processes.
When I started some 29 years ago we used laquer primers and paint, rust was taken care of using sandblasting then using PPG DX579 followed by DX520 metal prep products and then primered.
When I run out of the products I have now I may just go back to this system...the epoxy paints and primers are just too expensive IMHO ...plus I've never really liked the Mil thickness buildup of the modern high-build primers and paints as they tend to obscure the bodylines.0 -
Anybody know if after curing does Por-15 offgas? I have used this on two cars and its as tough as boots and I wore gloves paint suit and fresh air fed respirator as this stuff is pretty toxic. I did not use it anywhere on the interior of the car as I did not know what the offgassing rate was on this product. Looking at the OSHA pages on this product was scary enough. My latest projects my 54 sedan and Hollywood I am using the Eastwood product.0
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Save your money. I used gloss black Rust-Oleum on the frame of a Chevy and it lasted more than 26 years. I've just re-restored the car and used the same thing.0
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super-six wrote:Save your money. I used gloss black Rust-Oleum on the frame of a Chevy and it lasted more than 26 years. I've just re-restored the car and used the same thing.
After reading last three comments from experienced builder's and realize how much I paid to date, I agree and never thought cost of exclusively using PPG paint, primer, sealer, thinner's-POR-15, 3M and Green Lizard skin(http://www.lizardskin.com/) materials would be so expensive, however after starting with overpriced supplies, I will bite the bullet until restoration is completed. Like everything else in life, some times overindulgence isn't in one's best interest, also may not be as good as competitive products offered?
Ray0 -
One of the sponsors of this site, Rust Bullet makes a great product. I used it on a Studebaker floor pan installation and it worked great! I would highly recommend it for what you are doing and here is a review that you can check out. Also it was nice to support a sponsor!
http://www.coloradok5.com/rustbulletreview.shtml0 -
I'm all for saving money but time is important also. If I'm correct, the Por 15 can be painted directly over the rusty surface. With the Rust-Oleum I'm sure I would have to sandblast everything, right? I'm just thinking I coulg get the Rust-Oleum cheap but have to buy sand,tips,electricity for the compressor and then spend all day or 2 blasting. After all that just buying Por 15 or Rust Bullet would be equal the price. I've been reading everything about this because I'm to the point of needing to buy one or the other real soon.0
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It's interesting reading all of the different results people have had with the different brands of products on this thread. It just goes to show you should use 'what works best for you'. For what my opinion is worth (I know, not much!):
Maybe it's because I live in a fairly high humidity area (north slope, deep shade, regular rain/snow), but after using all of the above mentioned products on anything from truck and trailer frames to rusty truck restorations to my beloved '49 Hudson undercarriage, the only one that I'll spend my money on is POR-15. Rustoleum doesn't last a year for me before it's showing it's age. Eastwood is great for special tools, etc. but I won't buy any more of their paint products. I've had to return most of them as defects, and the ones I used I wasn't impressed with. POR-15 is an entirely different animal, for reasons stated above (removal after setting up, masks, gloves, etc.), but if applied per instruction (wire brush, degrease, etch before painting) you won't find a tougher paint. I've rebent sheet metal brackets that were painted with this stuff, and it doesn't even crack!
That's not to say POR-15 is for everyone, because it takes more time and money to do the same thing as the others. I've just found out that for me, since I really only want to do it once, and I'm usually in no rush to get it done, it suits my purposes the best.0 -
If moisture and oxygen are sealed from the metal, you have a pretty good chance of keeping rust from coming back. POR-15, because it goes on thick seals pretty well. Plus, the recommended preparation gives a good bond.
On the other hand, what I have been doing for underbody and frame recoating is to scrape as much rust off as I can, saturate with Oshpho (phosphic acid), let dry a couple days, paint with black latex, then spray with rubberized undercoat. This is a bit of a shortcut, but this car won't be out in the weather anymore, it's kind of in an automotive retirement home.0 -
I am waiting for a sample of the rust bullet product but in the mean time, I got some aerosol cans of Eastwoods black rust encapsulator. I sprayed the inside of the trunk and the inside floor panels- stuff goes on just like regular spray paint and covers really well. Dries to the touch in less than an hour.0
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I have spots of surface rust on the rocker panels of my Pacemaker and want to paint over them with something that will last. I gather that POR-15 needs to be on bare metal or rust, but not on existing paint. Am I correct? From what I've read above, I think Rustoleum will be good enough for the job. Any comments?
middletom0 -
You can buy a 16 oz spay can of Eastwoods rust encapsulator for about $19.00 on e-bay. It would be best to prep the area down to bare metal and then spray it on. I think directly over existing paint is a second best option. Eastwoods certainly is better but more expensive than rustoleum but I guess it depends on how permanent a job you want to do. I would be surprised if you can spray rustoleum directly over rust and expect lasting protection.0
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Heres my 2 cents. I use Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, under all the molding clips on the body that I took off, to get to a paint job.. I have used it everyplace there is rust. I clean first with a wire brush, or if a small part, Oxy, water, spray with air, and then spray black or Silver Encapsulator. You will never see rust on that part again. don't need to wear a mask, not expensive, and cheap. Took all the trim off the back of the car just above the bumper.
Rust city. Cleaned with wire brush, cleaned up with denatured alcohol, and sprayed. Wished I could post a pic. That $19.00 can goes a long way. I have a new can. When I get the chance to have the underside sand blasted I'll use the new can. No salt down here, just sand maybe twice a year. (And don't think about moving down here).....Really it's pretty darn good stuff.0 -
then here's my three cents... pass on the paint products and all work YOU have to do. I brought my 41 pickup frame to the local powdercoater dripping with grease/oil/dirt. he blasted, applied two powder rust killer epoxies, then two coats of the toughest high tech black powdercoat made, all for $400.00!! and no dirt under the fingernails!!(plenty of that on other parts). in research, this is far superior to any paint product!! won't rust as a daily driver in minnesota!!0
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bellbigdawg wrote:then here's my three cents... pass on the paint products and all work YOU have to do. I brought my 41 pickup frame to the local powdercoater dripping with grease/oil/dirt. he blasted, applied two powder rust killer epoxies, then two coats of the toughest high tech black powdercoat made, all for $400.00!! and no dirt under the fingernails!!(plenty of that on other parts). in research, this is far superior to any paint product!! won't rust as a daily driver in minnesota!!
Nice!
There are just some jobs it's better to pay for!
Now - Does he have an oven big enough to powder coat the underside of a stepdown?
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bellbigdawg wrote:then here's my three cents... pass on the paint products and all work YOU have to do. I brought my 41 pickup frame to the local powdercoater dripping with grease/oil/dirt. he blasted, applied two powder rust killer epoxies, then two coats of the toughest high tech black powdercoat made, all for $400.00!! and no dirt under the fingernails!!(plenty of that on other parts). in research, this is far superior to any paint product!! won't rust as a daily driver in minnesota!!
You are absolutely correct but you are comparing apples and oranges. You are talking frame off, we are talking simply jacking up the car and spraying on a long lasting rust protectant.0 -
bellbigdawg wrote:then here's my three cents... pass on the paint products and all work YOU have to do. I brought my 41 pickup frame to the local powdercoater dripping with grease/oil/dirt. he blasted, applied two powder rust killer epoxies, then two coats of the toughest high tech black powdercoat made, all for $400.00!! and no dirt under the fingernails!!(plenty of that on other parts). in research, this is far superior to any paint product!! won't rust as a daily driver in minnesota!!
Where did you go for that deal? I live in minnesota and need blasting work done on my frame and eventually powder coated! That sounds like a heck of a deal, my dad was quoted $1000 just to strip the metal of rust. Kyle0 -
rambos_ride wrote:Nice!
There are just some jobs it's better to pay for!
Now - Does he have an oven big enough to powder coat the underside of a stepdown?
he sure does!! most of these places do big industrial items like shelving racks, outdoor play equipment, etc.0
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