1933 Terraplane 8 followed me home

Ric West IN

Matt, The original flywheel on my T-8 was unusable. After much searching I tried the one
used through 54 without the drive lugs. To use this I fit the 10 inch pressure plate used through 1940. Because this flywheel has more teeth than the original, I used the starter from
the 1949. Don't remember which end plate I used. This was 30+ years ago.

Ric

StillOutThere

Though I don't have it in front of me to verify, I'd be almost positive those are carbon deposits from the hot oil on the dipper tray rather than black paint. Should come off with solvent and rubbing or hot tanking. Same type deposit found inside the valve covers. No, they wouldn't have painted the dipper tray - no way.

faustmb

StillOutThere - that makes sense. It's been 7 months or so since I saw it, I cleaned it pretty quickly to get it to Randy. I cleaned it with solvent as well as a few rounds of purple power, what you see is what's left. The inside of the valve covers came very clean with the same treatment.

I messed with the trans tonight a little. I ended up with 5 transmissions for this project...I think the one in the right in this picture is correct. Unfortunately it is very worn. Can someone confirm the "lever type" on the right is correct? The later ones have a paddle type linkage similar to the stepdown type but with rollers instead of pads.



I have a NOS 10" 6 spline clutch disk that looks great, and a pressure plate that needs reconditioning.

I also think I'm missing some linkage from the clutch peddle to this lever.

Ric West IN

Hi Matt, The bell housing on the left is what has been in my T-8s . Maybe Pete can verify.
The trans for 32-33 Terraplanes is not as durable as the later ones. Bronze bushings were replaced by bearings in 34-35's. 36 and up had different flange for mounting the drive shaft.
The babbit bearing on the inside of input shaft is usually worn badly leading to jumping out of gear in second. Don't know who can re do this. I was lucky and found a new one.

"Ric"

oldhudsons

I think the one on the right is the correct one. Shift lever on the left one definitely would not work & the bell housing doesn't look correct either.

33kc1989

Very nice thread faustmb always looking at what your working on

faustmb

I managed to finish the starter assembly today. Hooked it to a 6v battery and it runs smooth as could be. I'll paint the bendix tonight and install it by the weekend.

The internals were great, so it was basically a clean / paint / lube job.

faustmb

Apparently this car also suffered a shark attack ;



This is actually what was done to the trans tunnel to install a ch##y drivetrain. Lucky for me, I picked up another floor pan when I gave up some of my spares to another guy building a 33. Good car-ma... Between the two, I should be able to make a solid and correct one. I figure a floor pan is a good place to practice welding



Next I need to further investigate what other surprises might be waiting from the former drivetrain swap.

Terraplane33

Lever type on the right picture is the same than mine.
Those sharks must have been starving from hunger to attack such an old lady...

[Deleted User]

Photo Gallery - 1933-1934 ? Mystery Rimless Bullet Headlamps (L&R)
Sept 1933, Date stamped inside the 'can'. These are extremely unique in that they do not have a removable bezel. The bezel is rolled into the rim where the Corcoran-Brown 'Tri-Beam' right & left lenses ride. They use GE Mazda lamps for power. I have been trying to find out what they vehicle they fit to for 50 years. They may fit an HET vehicle, or not. Got an idea as to what they go to?

faustmb

Got to looking at the frame a little better tonight



A lot of cutting was done to make room. It should look like this ;

Anyone know where a donor frame might be? 34-35 may be compatible...these parts are just riveted on, so I could bolt on replacements.

bob ward

faustmb, I've not studied a 33 chassis, but the assembly sequence of of the 35 chassis was such that you won't be able to replace either the centre tunnel or the entire X-piece without spreading the chassis rails.

If you were to remove the rear-most chassis cross members you may get enough spring in the side rails so you can get the new tunnel or X-piece in place.

The other suggestion is to cut each of the 4 arms of the hacked X-piece and weld in a good piece. Its a major undertaking whichever way you tackle it.

faustmb

I'm on the hunt for the missing frame pieces, and will fab something temporary if needed. I disassembled the generator last night. I'm not so lucky as I was with the starter. There is evidence of poorly done repairs to internal wiring. Luckily it came apart pretty easily.

Also there is a " Norma 203" roller bearing that needs to be replaced. The one in it is pretty well shot. A quick search looks like a 6203 may work? I'll throw calipers on it tomorrow.

Any advice on other things to check? This is the first generator I've pulled apart.

bob ward

Had a good look at my 35 frame today. I believe it would be possible to refit the X-piece to the chassis pretty much in one piece IF you were to cut short and later re-weld one of the rear arms of the X-piece

faustmb

Tim- It is filthy which concerns me as well. I'll keep going with it a bit more a take it to a pro if needed. It looks like a 6203 bearing will work.

Bob- I was thinking the same thing. It looks to have an hour glass kind of shape so I can see how it would be trapped. Given the circumstances I could perform some minor mods to work around that.

faustmb

Needless to say, the roof is very dried out. It had some small tears, but as soon as the wind hit it the roof shredded quickly. I've started removing the original alminum strip. It had been sealed with what looks like roofing tar at some point. I've got it 1/2 stripped, I plan to finish stripping it over the next few weeks after I catch up on some mechanicals.



This alumium strip looks very similar to the oiginal. Doing some research on the HAMB it looks like this may be the way to go. I'd like to hear from anyone else what they have used with good (or bad) success.

http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-ford-mercury-top-deck-moulding-aluminum-70quot-ford-40-705019/camid/F30/cp/JS0R3CHL1076463/

More often than not I see these roofs redone and they don't look quite right. Most of them sit well above the steel, but the "originals" seemed closer to flush. I'd like to get it as close to original cosmetically as possible.

faustmb

The Dillinger Terraplane looks to be pretty well done.

Terraplane33

As you said, they often do not look right... Mine has been redone as well, it looks like a kind of windshield sealing has been used. I would like to see how this fits to the roof, could you make some pictures once you remove it ?

Terraplane33

In regards to the generator, you will need to check the insulation of the wiring, it should look more shiny (cupper colour with varnish), on the picture it looks burned (?) :-S

faustmb

Sorry, I wasn't thinking when I posted last night. The original retaining strip that secures the roof is steel, not aluminum. It almost looks galvanized. The profile looks similar to what Macs sells for 33-34 Ford.

In this picture the foreground has the strip removed, further back the steel strip is in place. (Note tack holes in the foreground)



I'm quite sure this roof was original, with the addition of only roofing tar. There were 4 pcs of the steel used to cover the perimeter of the roof, with seams in the center of the windshield, center of the rear window, and near the front of each door.

You can see how the top of this steel strip was about flush.


Based on what I've seen so far, it looks like I will install in this order;

-layer of batting (muslin lining?)
-layer of padding
-final exterior layer
-"top deck trim strip"
-upholstery tacks
-rubber seal into groove of stripping

Originally there was only 2 layers, the outer coated paper type stuff and the inner layer. It is only secured with tacks around the perimeter through the center of the steel strip. The area that the tacks go into is a dense tarlike material, I need to investigate that more.

In the foreground, all of the layers are removes to show the profile of the body and a closer view of the steel profile.

essexcoupe3131

I used the ford profile, the curve was just about perfect for the roof radius on my 31
the beater mitered and welded all 4 corners
when we set it in we used black urethane, that was 6 years ago no leaks and yes it does go in the rain
Mike

faustmb

Thanks Mike. I had read about someone else who mitered and welded it. It looks like a very close match, $19 per 70" strip seems reasonable too.

The aluminum strip measures 0.75" wide, 0.177" high vs my original measures 0.77"w x 0.170"

Sounds like a winner to me.

kamzack

Juliano's has a vinyl roof and install kit. Assisted on an install and turned out very well. Check their website.
Kim

faustmb

I've seen the Juliano's kit and it seems very popular, but when finished it sits well above the roof. His tutorial pre-stretches the material over a jig as well.

That video is great Tim. No signs of chicken wire in the Terraplane, but apparently that was the standard.

terraplane8

I like the job done on the Dillinger roof, that looks good although it is hard to see whether it is sitting near to flush with the metal roof itself.

Unknown

I still have the original top on my '33, although tattered badly.The hidden antenna wire is now visible!

faustmb

5433HET, you beat me to that. I think people would find that antenae wire interesting, I did. I guess chickenwire was standard in this period, at least for Ford. This car had a factory radio, I wonder if every car got the antenae wire woven through the roof? It was an expensive option, so you would think few cars were sold with radios. I'll post a pic once all the fabric is removed.

StillOutThere

Only the '33 Terraplane Deluxe came with the Majestic 66 radio as standard equipment. There were Deluxe versions of both the 6 cyl and 8 cyl on the 113" wheelbase. So by paying extra for the deluxe equipment, the buyer had covered Hudson's extra expense for the radio and wiring into the roof insert of the closed coupes and sedans. Non-Deluxe buyers could still purchase the radio to be installed at the dealer but then the antenna would be installed as a two post vertical mounting on the left cowl. Purchasers of Deluxe convertible coupes and roadsters necessarily had the antenna on the cowl.

bent metal

Awesome video.

Unknown

My '33 is a model KU Special Six, and as far as I can tell, no radio was ever installed....so, I wonder why I have that hidden antenna?...If I do install a factory radio in the future, where is this antenna terminated?