Hudson Disk Brake kits, once again available

faustmb

2/4/2014 See edits below for latest pricing****

I am pleased to announce that I am now taking orders for Hudson Disk brake kits. These are the kits that were designed and formerly provided by Richard Pridemore. This is the third and most recent generation of the design which uses new hubs and a gusseted MC bracket. At the moment I am offering the kit just as Richard had; I will provide the new parts along with instructions and a parts list for the common commercial parts. In the longer term I plan to offer the complete kit including all of the common commercial parts ready to bolt on.

I am also working on a high performance version that will use Wilwood components. I expect to have that together by summer.

Please email me at HETorphanautomill@gmail.com (drop the HET) with any questions or to place an order. I do accept Paypal at the same address.

Thanks,
Matt Faust

******* 2/4/2914. update, kit now includes all hardware. User supplies only calipers, rotors and pads for the wheel kit

Shipping is estimated at 8 weeks, pre-orders required with $200 deposit , paypal or check is fine

Wheel Kit, basic, 48-54 Hudson Stepdown models
(Note this kit will fit 37-47 Hudson but requires 1 inner stepdown Hudson bearing)
-new CNC machined hubs w/ new studs and lug nuts
-new Laser CNC caliper mount brackets, with grade 8 mounting hardware
-Wheel spacers (1/4") to use factory wheels, Laser CNC cut pair ( not required for 16" Hudson wheels or aftermarket wheels)
-new flex hoses with banjo bolts
-new grease caps
-not included (calipers, rotors, and pads) part numbers provided (Advance & NAPA)
-detailed installation instructions and parts list
$475 plus $22 for insured shipping (USPS) (-$30 if you don't need wheel spacers)

Master cylinder kit, basic, 48-54 Stepdown, LWB or SWB
-bolt in bracket for OE location
-mounting hardware, grade 8
-Master cylinder part number, modification instructions, assembly instructions
* must specify Manual or Auto transmission
$60

[Deleted User]

You list wheel spacers so you can use the factory wheels, what wheel fits if you dont use the spacer?
Roger

faustmb

***Edit ***
16" Hudson factory wheels do not require the additional spacers
***
On the early version of these kits (as well as Labuds), the procedure was to grind away on the cast part of the caliper until you got enough clearance. The guys who used these on "modified" cars did not need to do this since most aftermarket wheels have more clearance inside. Richards intent from day 1 was to use off the shelf parts with no mods, and these spacers helped him get a little closer.

To answer your original question, I believe some of the later Ford and Mopar wheels have a bit more clearance and may not require these spacers either.

Richard also only sold this as a single package, so guys who didn't need MC brackets or wheel spacers got them anyway. To try to keep the cost down, I broke these out as options. They are the least expensive parts of the setup, but if you don't need them...

On a side note, I believe the Wilwood version will work with stock wheels and no additional mods, but I have not confirmed that personally yet.

[Deleted User]

Matt,I did put 1 of the MC kits on a 52 Super Wasp.It was a couple years ago so I dont remember much other than the brake peddle arm comes out a bit different(passes through the subframe). Had to bust out the porta band and the mig,but it did work.

Hud Twin H Garage

faustmb

Thanks Hud, Richard wasn't sure of the changes needed for SWB. I'll be installing in my 50 Pacemaker soon, that ought to be the same or very similar at which point I can detail it out.

faustmb

Got the first order of new hubs this week. Excellent quality, right down to the reliefs to make bearing removal easy. I'm hoping to get these mounted this week.

Lee ODell

I am glad to see the disc brake kit back in production. I'll share some experiences and thoughts about the stud shoulder I see in the picture. This is not ment to be critical but something to be aware of when installing wheels with stud shoulders protruding past the hubs face.

I noticed in the photo alot of the untreaded part of the stud shoulders are protruding above the hub face. I have come across this many times on customer cars that came into my shop when bad studs had been replace with new studs and the stud shoulder protruded past the hub face. Original factory stud shoulders do not protrude past the hub face. The problem was that the end of the tappered nuts would bottom out and tighten against the tappered stud shoulders giving a false sense that the wheel was tight when in fact the wheel was not tight enough or not at all. Because of multiple tire changes and overtightening lug nuts or bolts the holes become larger so the nut or bolt taper will get closer to the hub face or stud shoulder which may cause the nut to bottom out. If the nut bottoms out on stud shoulder, the torque between wheel/hub will not be sufficiently tight. Without sufficient torque the wheel can move around which leads to larger holes and a junk wheel.

Of course with the use of the wheel spacer this should not be a problem with a good wheel. Could the hub face be made thicker to eliminate the need for spacers?

I hope this will be helpful.
Lee O'Dell

faustmb

Lee,

I knew I was asking for trouble posting the pics of the first parts:). The studs were immediately identified as as issue and replaced with a part with a shorter shoulder. I replaced the first set of studs and test fit everything tonight.



The new stud has plenty of clearance so that rotor sits completely flush on the hub face with additional clearance. The nut does not bottom out even if the wheel isn't installed.

One of the challenges with this project has been sourcing the small hardware items. Things were listed as "1/2-20 stud" and "banjo Bolt". In the case of the stud, there is literally a hundred to choose from with only the thread in common. Secondary criteria for me is that all parts have to span many model years. A one year or one model only part is asking for trouble down the road. I have lots of hours into searching for manufactures and specific part numbers so there is no guesswork involved, and part quality, availability and pricing are good.

I'm an engineer by trade, specifically in custom machine building. I work off of BOMs and don't like guesswork, which is why I have ordered and tested each part that is required for the kit.

I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,
Matt

faustmb

Here's a pic of the wheel kit (minus the wheel spacers), just supply calipers, rotors and pads from your local auto parts store.



Also, I did test with 16" Hudson wheels. Plenty of caliper clearance without additional spacers.

Matt

[Deleted User]

Oh I would think so ,should be more clearance than the 15" I would think,
Roger

rambos_ride

Hello, Tried to send you an email - did you receive?

faustmb

No I didn't. I will PM you. MATTorphanautomill@gmail.com drop the MATT

Thanks,
Matt

rambos_ride

Matt - got your email, about the same time I got news Rambo needs surgery.. I will get back to you and make an order..but it may be another month or so now until I'll have the cash.

faustmb

Here is a pic of an OE hub compared to my new ones. Note the beefed up flange to give a bit more strength for the press in studs and the deeper center to keep the rotors hub centric. Plus they're shiny



I'm working on my Master Cylinder bracket for the SWB cars. It is quite a bit different than the existing brackets, I'll post more info when I have it put together.

Matt

Kdancy

Nice!!

raidmagic

So these won't fit stock 15" wheels how far out do the spacers move the wheels? Will the stock MC work with these or do you need a new one?

faustmb

Stock Hudson wheels w/ stock calipers interfere due to the interior layer of steel where the inner and outer rims are riveted together. Without spacers, the track width matches OE width. The wheels spacers are 0.25" thick, so a total change of 1/2" which I'd say is not noticeable and has plenty of clearance to the fender wells. The convertible stepdowns left the factory with an extra 1/2" per side (wider rims) for a total of 1" additional width, all other things being equal. Someone here can probably clarify the wheel offset on these wider rims?

The master cylinder seems to be an item of debate. Labuds kit used the stock MC, but you have to "relieve " the internal check valve and add external residual valves. I know quite a few people that have the Factory MC with front disks and are happy with this. I had planned to try this to gain first hand experience, but when I pulled my NC it was nasty (full rebuild in 2005) so I scratched that plan. Richard has stated that he is dead against using the stock MC, favoring the dual chamber GM design. Brackets for the LWB cars are designed fir this and are bolt in. Either solution is workable, but both require residual valves.

I am installing a Wilwood single outlet with remote reservoir in my car now. The pros; all new parts, easy bolt in, small remote reservoir under the hood, still retains the full factory mechanical backup. I'm working through this in my spare time, but hope to have it worked out within the next few weeks. I'll post an update once its together.

Thanks,
Matt

[Deleted User]

I tried to email you about a Hudson jet kit but didn't get through, do you make a kit for jets? Let my know thank

faustmb

I think that the Jet spindles are completely different, so this kit will not fit.

Thanks,
Matt

faustmb

Sorry for the lack of updates on here regarding the kits, 2013 was a crazy year. I had 18 kits produced, and all of them are gone as of last month.

See the first post for the latest pricing etc. I've added some small things like new grease caps and slightly revised wheels spacers. I plan to order at least one more batch, but I'll need to accumulate about 6 orders first due to the cash outlay and relatively slow return. About 1/2 of those kits are using the dual MC as Richard designed, others are using firewall mounted units or are on pre-Stepdown cars. I've investigated a few ways to get the cost down, but it's limited with custom machining and low quantities. I've got information on cheaper parts from China, but I'm not interested in pursuing that option. I hope to have more ready for sale in 8-10 weeks, assuming there is continued interest.

Also, the MC bracket has been redesigned to work on SWB cars.

Let me know if you have any questions or comments.

Thanks,
Matt

super651

Matt, what brand and make of car would the calapers,rotors,and pads come from?
Thanks Rudy

joe53HH

Matt,
Is there a dual MC that accepts a remote fill that can be used your MC bracket?

Thanks,
Joe

Ol racer

FYI

These new thick machined 'Steel Hub's appear much stronger than the original thin 'Cast' Hudson Hub....I think these new hubs would hold a wide Mag Wheel just by the Studs regardless of the Center I.D.

(I really wish these Steel Hubs were available back when I was Circle Racing. With double plated Right Front wheel when corning on a rough Track the Hub would bust occassionally sending the wheel over the fence....I changed the RF Hub on a regular basis to be safe).

DavidC

Nice kit, and I wish it was around when I was in the market a while back. I instead bought the ABS Powerbrake, Inc kit which claims to fit stock wheels on a 12 in disk. I'll mock it up and see. Have my doubts now.
Dave C

[Deleted User]

I bought a kit back in Jan. Let me start of by saying Matt was great to work with and is there to help any way he can. I have a 42 super six that I put the kit on. I did have a problem installing the backing plate bolts supplied to short. Matt was not aware  that the sway bar attach to the lower bracket and sent me the replacement bolts. It took all of about a hour to install the kit. only mod needed was to cut out part of the caliper to allow the hose to fit correctly as stated in earlier post. I put a firewall mount MC on my car with a p-valve out of a 76 corvette cars weighs about the same and has 4 wheel disk brakes.

 

Terry B.

Michigan

Kdancy

Terry,
Any pictures?

jjbubaboy

Hey faustmb,

It says these will fit 37-47.

What about 36T?

Thanks,

Jeff

Hudsonkid

Matt,

These kits available again?

Let us know. The post seems old, just wanted to verify!

Best!
Rick

faustmb

Hey guys,   sorry for the delayed response to this thread.  I must have missed it in my rush to get ready for French Lick this summer.  I am still putting these kits together.  I've sold over 30 since I started this, with good feedback from everyone.  I'm still making minor tweaks to the parts and instructions,  and will be making a Master Cylinder kit for the 40-47 models next.  

I'm helping a friend install disk brakes in his Pacemaker sometime this winter, I'll get more good pics then. 

It's been a busy year, I wasn't online much from June to October... I think most of you know that this is purely a hobby for me, so I work it in around my day job, family of 5 kids, soccer practice, and my other projects.   I'm loving it but it keeps me running

If you don't see me on here, drop me an email or phone call. 

HETorphanautomill@gmail.com - drop the HET

Thanks, 

Matt 

DavidC

Nice kit Matt. I purchased a kit from ABS Power Brakes during the period when no Hudsonite was making them. It cost $650 but included everything at the wheels: hoses, seals, bearings, rotors, calipers, hubs, pads, brackets, bolts, etc. In other words, the kit provided everything from the hard lines forward. Later I splurged for an electric power brake system from the same company- very pricey, but nice. I only mention this because previously in my thread I mention a concern the calipers might not fit in 15 in wheels. This is not true- the wheels fit perfectly without additional spacers.
Altogether, to have brand-new front-disc rear-drum power brakes running thru stainless lines cost me nearly $2K in parts. My reservoir is a small bottle mounted on the firewall. Front components are 80s GM and plentiful. The rears are stock, so I will continue to deal with sourcing these parts, especially the shoes. All Hudson safety equipment, including the backup mechanical brakes, are intact. My only complaint is in regard to the MC bracket I purchased from a Hudsonite on the WTN. Its MC mounting face interferes with the parking brake cable, and will need to be cut to fit. I do not recall who I purchased it from, but Matt please make sure yours does not have this problem.

Kdancy

A couple of disc brake kits I have purchased for Studebakers wound up having mismatched calipers- master cylinders. Be sure you have the "fast uptake" MC if the calipers are "fast uptake" type. It took a lot of work trying to get them right before I figured out the problem.