my flooding carburetor
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Last week I got the Pacemaker out for the season. It started and ran fine. I had put plenty of Sta-Bil in the gas as Walt said to do and once out, I added more gas and more Sta-Bil. Yesterday I went to get the car out and I found the carb was leaking all over in what was a flood of gas. I assume the float is sticking, but I couldn't tell for sure where it was leaking from. What can I do to fix this? Can I take the float chamber apart and unstick the valve? Is this an easy fix or does more need to be done to correct the problem? I don't understand how it could gum up like that with so much Sta-Bil in the gas.
Geoff Blake
Geoff Blake
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Comments
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First, I'd try giving the inlet over the needle and seat a good whack with the handle of a screwdriver, could simply be stuck. Might be sediment stuck in there. You can also pull the inlet screen plug and spray a little carb cleaner down into the needle and seat.0
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I DON'T THINK IT'S THE STA-BIL IN THE GAS BUT THE GAS IT SELF I HAD A PROBLIM WITH MY 34 SEADAN THE VALVE WAS NOT OPENING IT WAS STUCK SHUT AND NO MATTER WHAT I DID I COULD NOT GET IT UNSTUCK SO I TORE DOWN THE CARB GOT A NEW KIT WITH A NEW DAYTONA FLOAT VALVE IN THE KIT NOW EVERY THING WORKS FINE AFTER SOME TALK WITH RON AT DAYTONA CARB HE SAID THE RUBBER ON THE OLD FLOAT VALVE IS AFFECTED BY THE NEW GAS WE ARE USING . IF YOU NEED A KIT I HAVE THEM IN STOCK0
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Walt here, no mater which needle and set you use,if you shut your engine down and let the car rest longer than 7days, you will have varnish in the carb. This is bad for the needle and seat. To help this problem I recommend having a fuel filter before the fuel pump and one before the carb, must be the see through style, for when you see them turn dark brown, change them and have no carb problems. Walt0
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Walt, I did add a filter just before the carb as you suggested, as well as the one before the pump. Since I can only really get the car out on weekends, every seven days, then I guess I'm sunk.
GrimGreaser, I gather from what you have written that the screen is just in from the fitting where the line from the pump attaches. Is that correct?
Geoff Blake0 -
Interesting post
Coincidentally, yesterday while at a cruise a well restored 63 Chevy Impala arrived. As the car pulled into a spot the engine quit. Upon opening the hood a strong smell of gasoline permeated the area. Several of us immediately moved to help push this hapless owner's car to an isolated part of the parking lot. There it was deduced that the needle valve on the small barrels of the carburetor were stuck and fuel would flow out when ever pump pressure was applied.
This is the third instance of this type of failure I have noted in two weeks. The temperature was not hot and the cars in question had been driven 30 plus miles before the failure. In each case I have the pleasure of knowing each owner. Convinced that there was a common thread, I asked each to keep me in the loop as to the cause of their failure. What was it? In each of these cases, the carburetor needle was metal, the tip was NOT rubber and what each found was a coating of a white substance on the needle and some in the seat. After some discussion the substance was compared to the mineral deposits that remain when a pot full of hard water boils dry. We do not know what they are, but suspect that they are alcohol residue from the fuel additives.
At the cruise we popped to the top on the AFB and found ALL the needles had the same deposits. This carburetor was rebuilt just three weeks ago.
What will fix this? Maybe using ball check valves instead of needle and seats? I am not qualified to provide that answer. But, I do know something is now in the alcohol being used in automotive fuels that will adhere to the needles and seats of carburetor equipped auto engines.0 -
Quit using the Stabil. I never put it in my Hudsons. I just park them in the fall and fire them up with a squirt of gas in the carb in the spring. No problems in upper NYS.0
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If you have this issue I have used Yamaha carburetor cleaner with excellent results . No disassembly required to clean out residue from stale gas.
Roger0 -
I have been using TK-7 injector cleaner in my cars for years. No problems. My 84 Achieva gained 5 mpg after 6 months using it. We bought a 85 Tarus about 8 mo. ago. I was really upset when it only got 13 mpg. Now it is up to 23.5 mpg. TK-7 recommends 6 oz to 10 gal. I try to do that regularly. The Tarus is alot pepplier today then when we first got it. Try using injector cleaner and drive the car regularly. Or at lease run the engine regularly. It will like you for it. LOL. Oh, my Hornet has gained 3 mpg.
Lee O'Dell
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If you add SOME of the fuel stabilizers to unfresh gas , it will turn to jello...I know from experience...some mess!!!!! Like unk josh, I dont use anything, works for me.0
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This is a WA-1, but WGD's and WDO's have the same basic inlet layout - inlet screen and plug directly over the needle and seat.0
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Since we're talking carbs, I'll jump in here with a little different problem. Finally able to get the Hornet out for the season, started up right away and warmed up just fine. But, when I step on the gas the engine really hesitates before revving. Tried some Gumout in and around the carbs (Twin-H with 968-S carbs) but it didn't make any difference. Any recommendations? Thanks.
Tim in WI.0 -
The carbs need to be rebuilt. Accelerator pump leather is dried out? Walt.0
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Thank you, all, for your help and suggestions. GrimGreaser, that is a great picture you posted and tells me just what I need to know. I hope to get it running well this week with a bit of cleaner sprayed in to clean things.
Walt, I'm sorry to find you are going to be layed up for a couple months. But, you'll probably fool the doctors and be back at your chores before they know it.
Geoff Blake0 -
Read my previous post to fix your problem, Yamaha carb cleaner removes the gummy gas residue
Roger0 -
If you have not been following the story on today's gas! They are now starting to use 15 percent alcohol and not only our old cars are in trouble, but new cars as well. 2013 engines are set for this new gas but 2012 down can now have the same problem as us old Hudson owners. Sta-bil has a new product to use with this new gas and it works to kill the white stuff. And things will get worst as they keep fooling with the gas. I can let my car set for 2 months, turn on the electric pump, wait 15 seconds and start right up and drive away. Walt0
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I understand there are ways to keep from gumming up your system .but once it has happened I am just offering a product that will save you from rebuilding an otherwise good unit.
I don't care if you put a $70.00 kit in it or not just thought I'd save some guys trouble and money,
Roger0 -
Speaking of that "new and improved" E-15 gas.....my new 2013 Nissan Versa will NOT run on it. And back in '88-'89ish times, when we bought a new Dodge Dakota PU, we were told that E-10 gas voided the warranty 100%.0
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Just finished cleaning three lawn mower carbs . All were running last fall , and gas drained.
None ran right , two were flooding. Carb cleaner fixed all three , no parts.
There is a residue left from the dried up fuel, like corrosion.
I'm sure if you rebuild it with a new kit it will work , but may not need it if it was running ok where stored.0 -
Just my point.........
Roger0 -
I had a lot of luck with the Craig valves. Absolutely no flooding in my Twin H. Stabil is necessary if you only plan on occasional trips. I just bought some Stabil Green. Read last months Consumer Reports regarding Ethanol & a fuel stabilizer.0
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Interesting options. Thanks everyone for your input.
Tim in WI0 -
Lee,
I just spent some time reading up on TK-7 fuel additive it seems to be a really good product. With your endorsement in addition to all the reading I've done I am going to give it a try. Thanks for the information.
Marvin0 -
If you put a kit in your carb, and use the little clip that ties the float to the needle, some of them prevent the needle from going in the seat far enough. Can't use the clip and don't need it.0
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I went to the car today armed with carb cleaner. I took out the screen above the seat, sprayed the cleaner in there, put the screen back in and waited a couple minutes. I fired the car up and checked to see if there was a leak. After about fifteen seconds running, the flood started. I cleaned things and used some more cleaner, tapped on the housing, just in case, and tried to start it. Nothing happened. Quite a bit of cranking and not even a sputter. I'm suspecting an elecrical problem now, perhaps a bad coil. Will have to investigate.
Geoff Blake0 -
Today, to check my findings of yesterday, I put gas into the float chamber and tried starting the car. It fired up, though running roughly, but again the carb started leaking after a few seconds. I could see that the gas was dripping down from the throttle mechanism on the front side of the carb, but I'm sure it got there from higher up on the carb. While the engine was running, it ran very roughly as though it was being flooded. I guess the only solution is to get a kit and rebuild it or have it rebuilt. Does that Datona company do a good job?
Geoff Blake0 -
PAULLARGETYPE, how might I contact you to get one of those kits?
Geoff Blake0 -
Your float may have a hole or crack it it as well. You'll want to pull the top and check the whole works now. If you're careful, you can get everything apart without damaging the gaskets, if they're not bad you can put everything back together to test till you get a kit. I've repaired cracks in floats with JB Weld with good results.0
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There is only one type of cleaner that will clean that unit out. If you are serious about fixing it get a bottle of "Yamaha" carb cleaner .You can find it on Ebay easily . Mix and fill carb as instructed ,let sit for 20 min. or so and start motor.
This chemical eats varnish and fuel residue ,will not harm metal ,rubber ,cork ,plastic or anything else.
If the carb is otherwise good just clogged it will clear it without disassembly. You may need to back out the idle jets and crank engine with coil wire out to get cleaner in them. This may mean a second dose but have done this on so many units I wouldn't be able to tell you a number.
Spraying some typical cleaner in the inlet of the unit will accomplish little down where the issue lies,
Roger0 -
Tallent R, I looked that up on Ebay, found the cleaner dip which mixes with water. Is that what you are referring to? If so, is the water not a problem to pour into the carburetor? I can see using that to clean the parts if the carb is apart, but wonder about putting it into the carb while it is in the car.
Geoff Blake0 -
No,it mixes 50% with gas0
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