Front disc brakes on your hudson for less than $125

Chic

I did a front disc conversion on my 36 deluxe 8 for under $125 using NEW parts about 6 months ago and they are working great! If anybody is interested contact me and I will tell you what I used and how easy it was to do!   Chic  gcechini@msn.com

airbrushguy

Would this work for a newer Stepdown Hudson '48-'51?

Chic

I dont see why not.....

PAULARGETYPE

PLEASE CONTACT ME I WOULD LIKE TO INSTALL DISC BRAKES ON MY 39 PLEASE DROP THE HET FROM MY EMAIL ADDRESS HETHUDSON1957@AOL.COM AND THANK YOU 

terraplane8

I am wondering why people wish to put disc brakes on these cars. as the original brakes on mine work tyre squealingly well even from high speeds. Is it because of brake fade, worn out drums, or something else?

46HudsonPU

Sent you a PM with my email address...

lostmind

Why not just post the info here? Seems to be plenty of interest

PAULARGETYPE

THE REASON I'M CHANGING TO DISC BRAKES IS MY CAR IS A CUSTOM CAR  BUILT IN THE 50'S IT IS NOT AN ORIGINAL CAR IT WILL HAVE A HORNET ENGINE AND IT WILL NEED MORE BRAKING POWER 

JasonNC

terraplane8 said:

I am wondering why people wish to put disc brakes on these cars. as the original brakes on mine work tyre squealingly well even from high speeds. Is it because of brake fade, worn out drums, or something else?

I switched to disc brakes because my drum brakes overheated on me coming down a mountain one day.  it was all I could do to keep from killing myself and my passengers that day.  I went down that same mountain after installing the disc brakes and had no problem at all.  If I could figure out a way to put disc brakes on my Kaiser I would have them installed on it also.   

Comm6

Send me the info also... I have a 47 I want to do them on thanks. Wscruzin@gmail.com 

allan

I think a lot of people here would really be interested and would benefit from the solution.  Please post it or give us a link to the information.

Thanks in advance,

Allan

keithfullmeryahoocom

allan said:

"I think a lot of people here would really be interested and would benefit from the solution.  Please post it or give us a link to the information."

Thanks in advance,

Allan

Ditto.  

russmaas

This "Chic" is full of BS

Chic

Sorry everybody, I had a family emergency and had to leave town for a couple days! I will share how I did it in a couple days when I return,   Chic

Chic

Sorry guys for taking so long to get back but I have had a hell of a two weeks! Anyway here is a list of the parts I used to convert to disc brakes on my 36 Deluxe 8 and now I am in the middle of converting my 1939 "112" with the same parts. Here is what I used....

97 Grand Marquis front rotors (these fit the 36 and 39 front hubs perfectly)  Rock Auto $20 each

78-88 Gm Metric calipers (look up 86 buick regal)  Checker Auto/ORileys auto parts $18 each

Brake pads for calipers $7  Rock Auto again

One pair flat weld on caliper mounts for 78 to 88 GM metric calipers from Speedway Motors part #916-41009 $10 each

10-2inch grade 8 full thread bolts to use for lug studs ( sorry…cant remember how much)

and here is what I did....

First I removed the front hubs and drums and removed all the shoes, springs and brake cylinders off the backing plates but leave the backing plates on the car for the time being. Next I ground off the rivets that held the front drums to the hubs. After removing the drums I ground the rest of the rivets off the face of the hub so the rotors will fit flush over hub. Now thread the bolts in from the back of the hub with locktite and tighten all the way down making lug studs on the front, Now remount the hubs back on the spindles and slide the rotors on them and put a couple of lugnuts on backwards finger tight to hold the rotors on the hub. Next mount the calipers with pads to the caliper mount brackets and slide the calipers over the rotors with the mount to the rear/up against the backing plate (obviously make sure you are putting the correct caliper on the correct side with the bleeder mounted in the "up" position. The original GM position for the calipers was at the rear side of the spindle but I mounted the calipers on my application on the front side of the spindle at the 3oclock on the passenger and 9 oclock on the drivers side. Mounting them on the rear caused interference with steering. So doing this I basically mounted the "left" caliper on the right side and the "right" caliper on the left). I set the caliper/pads/mount in position on the rotor checking for clearance on the rotor for free rotating movement and secure the mount to the backing plate with vice grips.(you may need to put a spacer or shim between the mount and backing plate for proper fit) Check for free movement of steering and that there is no interference from springs or anything else. now unbolt the calipers and pads from the mounts and remove the rotor and hub from the spindles leaving the caliper mounts still clamped to the backing plates. tack weld the caliper mount to the backing plate to hold it in place and remove the backing plate from the spindle.  Now you can properly weld the mount to the backing plate. Trim the excess backing plate away turning your old backing plate into your new caliper mount. I hope this makes sense. The conversion I made to the 36 has been rolling for almost a year and has given me zero problems

50C8DAN

Sounds interesting.  What brake hoses did you use?  Also please post some pics if possible that helps put everything in perspective.

SuperDave

Any changes to the Master Cylinder? or did I miss that?

Chic

I never took pictures of my first conversion but Im right in the middle of my 112 conversion and have been taking pic of the entire process. Will figure out how to post some when Im done. I had some brake lines made up at the local "Hoseman" ( a business here in socal that makes hydraulic lines and hoses) Just told them what fittings and lengths and they whipped some up. The GM calipers take a banjo type end on them and I also ordered the banjo bolts from Rock auto when I got the other stuff....just a buck or two each and come with compression washers. The stock brake hoses for the calipers (Regal, cutlass, Monte Carlo ect were all too short to work for me) As for master cyl, I put a set of swing pedals in my 36 out  of a 59 ford pickup ( it was built to be a ratrod/jalape so originality didnt matter to me but I fashioned a bracket on my 39 to mount a 76 ford granada master cyl (Reman from ORiley auto for $20 part # 10-1602 to the original location/pedal assy That master comes up in the book for a pwr brake application but it is the same damn cyl as the manual one that costs almost twice as much because it has a pedal rod with it that I never used.) A friend of mine used a stock master Cyl on his brake conv but the discs use more volume of fluid than drums and as the brake pads wore he was always having to check the fluid with the small reservoir. I also really like the safety factor of a more modern dual master. Make sure you use the larger fluid reservoir side of the cyl for your discs and smaller to the drums.  Also you will need to get some residual pressure valves (10lb for the front, 2lb for the rear $15 each at Speedway and an adjustable proportioning valve also from Speedway for as little as $35)

airbrushguy

Chic, if you send me the pics, I will post them for you.
Thanks for sharing.

Chic

Also, If you want to put on rear disc brakes along with the fronts you can use the very same rotors, calipers and caliper mount! I used a Lincoln Versailles master cyl  and my 36 will damn near throw you through the windshield when you really mash down on them!! This swap does not give you an emergency brake however.....

Chic

Airbrushguy, I will let you know when I have my pics all together and will email them to you!  Thanks!!  Chic

RichardD

Extremely difficult to post photos here, mostly impossible. You need to use a photo site and then post the link to the photos. An excellent site is Picasa.

>>>>>  https://picasaweb.google.com

46HudsonPU

RichardD said:

Extremely difficult to post photos here, mostly impossible. You need to use a photo site and then post the link to the photos. An excellent site is Picasa.

>>>>>  https://picasaweb.google.com

Here is a link to the thread on posting pictures.  No more said here, as it is detracting from the discussion. Please go to the link, read and follow the picture posting instructions there.

http://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/165387/attach-a-file-is-back-easy-way-to-post-pictures#latest

chopperchuck

Subscribed......

bob ward

From above.....

"Now you can properly weld the mount to the backing plate. Trim the excess backing plate away turning your old backing plate into your new caliper mount."

Guys, I know we are normally fairly polite about things on here but I have to be blunt. This is dead dodgy, there is no other way of saying it. The component selection is fine, no problems there. 

But....

Home welding on brake components????

Mounting a brake caliper off 1/8" thick steel???? There is a reason why car makers - the guys who love to save a cent per component where they can - use expensive and substantial forged brackets for caliper mounts rather then cheap 1/8" steel pressings.

Let the fun begin.

RichardD

Believe the stepdown brackets that the calipers mount to that I have are 3/8" tk; but they don't weld to the backing plate. Edited after I looked at this again !!

So, everything is not doom for me~~~~

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Weld-On-1978-88-GM-Flat-Mount-Caliper-Bracket,21280.html?OriginalQuery=91641009

50C8DAN

For brake hoses you might try the full size Chevy hoses ('58 - '66) Napa (United) part #32070.  These are longer than any of the more recent disk brake hoses used on FWD cars.  I have these on a disk brake kit on my Studebaker and they work really well, the stock hoses were way too short.

Ol racer

FYI
Actually those old backing plates are thick & strong and after a Year with no trouble is encouraging. Perhaps just trim backing plate for Venting and not trim them all off.

Chic

Hey all. I reread what I wrote (i was in a hurry when I wrote it) an Ol racer is correct. It should have said to trim away whatever may have been in the way or interfering. All the backing plates have to do is keep the caliper in place from spinning around when you hit the brakes.....the very same thing that they did when shoes were attached to them!! I suppose you could take the backing plates off and use them as a pattern to fashion something out of 1/4 inch or even 3/8" plate but with the way mine have been working and holding up I personally do not see the need. In reading through old forums for years, there is ALWAYS a handfull of people who seem to like to blow holes through other peoples theories or ideas without EVER trying them out themselves first to see if they might actually work or offering any ideas that they THINK might improve something.....just criticisms! Its good to see that THOSE people are alive and well and to them I say PLEASE FEEL FREE TO EAT YELLOW SNOW!!!

cardoclassics

I would like to thank you Chic, for taking the time to share your talent on the brake conversion. I took a copy in case I should ever  would like to do it. But most importantly, it's the time you took to help others, if they so choose to learn something new & innovative to develope and improve on if they can. That's the spirit the whole industry has been built on, starting with guys like Leland,olds, ford & the like. So have a very Merry Christmas. Ron Cardoza.

Ol racer

FYI
I echo what Ron Cardoza said about Chic sharing his conversion Information for others to follow if so chose....Chic did all the experimenting then tested for a long period before sharing.
I hope other Members will share their Hudson updates as well........