262 to 308 engine swap?

50ClubCoupe

Frank - that's a great looking setup.  I just picked up the unit that Ken mentioned, I'll see if I can rig something.  HF also had a pump/suction gun (http://www.harborfreight.com/oil-suction-gun-95468.html) that was built for emptying/filling differentials, transmissions, etc.  It looks like you just fill it and shoot the fluid in there….might be a good solution for priming as well as filling the clutch.  

One last Hudson newbie question for this thread….I'm going to head out and grab this motor over the weekend and I will need to remove it from the engine stand.  I'm bringing a cherry picker and I've modified an engine lifting plate (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard-Engine-Lift-Plate,29433.html) that should do the trick.  My question is regarding the mounting of the plate.  I see the Hudson puller is mounted using 2 head bolts and I've modified my plate so that it actually can use 4 head bolts….but….if I remove the head bolts to install the plate, won't that compromise my head gasket and open the possibility of head warpage?  I pulled a bunch of motors in my time but I've never used one that required the removal and attachment of the head bolts.  I'm used to either making a sling, attaching around manifolds, or using the factory intended lifting points.  The Model A uses a plate that utilizes the spark plug holes to mount but that engine is considerably lighter.

Ol racer

Short answer is NO Problem...
 I usually use only two head bolts diagonally near each opposite corner. If want to use 4 do the same. Afterward re torque your bolts. (Keep in mind after start-up need to re torque the head from the genter outward in a clockwise fashion but consult a manual for a schematic).

There have been occassion that I lifted the motor bolting a chain on opposite ends utilizing front & rear points. (Front Eng Plate Mnt hole & a rear Bell hsing 5/8" Bolt .

50ClubCoupe

Thanks for the reassurance! I just drilled the $12 Speedway plate and it looks like it should do the job. I also just tried the $15 HF oil gun and it actually puts out a good deal of pressure. I picked up a 10" grease gun hose while at HF and I clamped the hose to the gun tube and it should thread right into the oil sender hole. It feels like I'll get enough pressure to shoot some oil into the pump and prime the motor before I try to turn it over. It's definitely not as elegant as Frank's design but it should do in a pinch if shop air isn't available.

Geoff

To prime the pump I simply remove the oil pressure sender unit and squirt oil  in with an oil can.  This goes direct down the gallery into the pump and is plenty to  get it going. 

Geoff 

50ClubCoupe

After a 20 hour round trip I got the new motor back home this weekend.  It looks great on the outside and even better on the inside.  I got the build ticket to verify the work completed and I pulled the pan off to find a nicely preserved motor.  Plenty of lubrication still clinging to everything and the cylinder walls look like the were honed yesterday....I was very (happily) surprised. I did the motor swap yesterday and everything went according to plan....until I had the motor mounted in the car and was attempting to mount the tranny/clutch bell.  It turns out that my '50 narrow block 262 uses a 3/8" bolt in two mounting locations while the '51 wide block uses the 7/16" bolt.  So, I'll need to drill out the bell in order to get these bolts to fit.  All things considered it went very smoothly...probably the easiest swap I've ever done. Everything went right in and aligned very well. 

During removal of my old motor I found that the head/radiator and coolant lines were nearly completely plugged. I let the radiator drain for over 30 minutes and it still had a good bit of fluid in it when I pulled it from the car.  The drainage from the water pump was the same way.  I titled the engine forward and backward to remove the bulk of the fluid but it kept seeping the entire time....enough that I had to keep a pan under it.  So, I just ordered the Dodge van radiator (Advance Auto part # 433889) and the two Napa hoses (#8484 and #8349) so I'll be mounting the new rad in place of the old one.  I'm happy to have found the radiator issue before I connected it to my rebuilt motor, there's no telling what would have gotten into the water jacket.  I may add a filter/screen to the circuit just to keep things clean going forward. 

Thanks to everyone for the help and guidance on this swap.  I'll snap some pictures of the new motor (with Twin H!!) pretty soon once I get her all sorted out. 

Frankvintagefullflowcom

50,

Glad to hear that the rebuilt engine met your expectations. I don't often hear of happy endings.....of course, no one complains about those!

Frank