Jag IFS in my Hudson
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I guess I’m ready to make the radiator brackets.
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Looking good!!!
Which transmission you running behind that BBF?
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E4OD out of a 94 F350.
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How much did you have to lean the engine back to get clearance for the transmission to “roughly” fit in the tunnel? Specifically I am concerned about the UJoint spacing around the brace on my swap. Disregard the angle on the angle finder, the actual angle is closer to 3.5 down. I was using that position to verify something else
It’s a 5.3 TR6060 which I know is longer than the E4OD but it seems pretty high even leaned back. I’m concerned about what I’m going to have to do to get a drive shaft through the supports. Are you doing a two piece or single?
Heres a side view of mine. I know it’s normal for it to not fit under the removable piece but I want to make sure I’m not missing something before I move forward.
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I put the tail shaft of the transmission where it needed to be, then adjusted the engine up or down until the throttle body mounting pad on the intake was level at ride height. Then I modified my engine oil pan to fit. I did it this way, because I didn't want to raise the floor anywhere other than in the removable trans cover. This way I can still use the factory seats without modification.
I will be using a two piece driveshaft. I kept the one out of the F-350 that gave up it's transmission, so I will employ it's center driveline support, and have both halves of the driveshaft shortened to suit.
Also note, that the factory front seat hangs out over the rear edge of the transmission cover, so plan accordingly there.
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My daughter Ashley and I put a carburetor and distributor on the engine, and some temporary gauges, and fired up the engine last week. We ran it for a little over twenty minutes to break in the cam, then set the idle and timing. It was an exciting day for me. A couple of Hudson friends joined us for the fun as well.
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Congratulations on the engine fire and time with your daughter and friends. Thanks for sharing.
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Running brake lines now. The front uses a .700 bore master cylinder for the Jaguar four piston calipers. The rear brakes use a .625 bore master for the Ford Explorer single piston calipers.
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I’ve got a few things to do under the car, so it’s up on stands. In addition to a brake line to the rear, I need to run a pressure and return line for fuel, set the pinion angle and weld the spring perches, and put the gas tank in it. I need to look at my options for a fuel pump. (In tank, or external, mounted to frame) If I go with an internal pump, I will make an access panel in the trunk floor for ease of service in the future.
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FWIW I installed a Tanks Inc. TM15-UT with internal fuel pump --GPS Series High Flow Pump. 25 gallons capacity tank designed for fuel injection . Compete cost with new sending unit approx $700.
Had to narrow the '54's spare tire wheel well approx 2" to fit tank with enough space along both sides to run out 2.5" dual exhaust pipes (decided against eliminating the wheel well entirely, my tall narrow 45 mph spare fits like a glove).
Did cut three circular holes in trunk floor board for accessing fueling spout, fuel pump, and 12V sending unit.
Retained the Hudson's original 2 front mounting strap brackets and rear all-threads to strap tank in place (using longer stainless bands).
Currently popping the trunk lid open to fuel up. Longer term plan is to weld an extension pipe over and up to original the side fender fuel door. This extension pipe will be encased in a semi round sheet metal "hump" to protect and isolate from luggage. Note ---the fueling spout in picture below hugs driver side.
I can send pictures if helpful.
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I'm going to try and use my factory tank. It is in great condition. I'm planning on buying a PA-4 pump from Tanks and putting it in my 54 tank.
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