52 Hornet Restoration Project

[Deleted User]

You are so right Dan. Should have noted that.

[Deleted User]

I just purchased four new Mustang take off's wheels & tires, (215/65R/16) just wondering if any memember has expereince or helpful idea for changing center cap from Ford logo to either Hudson or Hornet script?



Thanks, and Merry Christmas to you and all of your familes,



Ray

Unknown

update:

most of the patch panels are in.

fatman front end is on and smoothed.

frame holes are filled and smoothed.

front floor and lower fire wall is cut out and in the process of being fabbed for install.

undercoating is sprayed on inner rear quarter panel joints.

engine is together and ready for first install (to locate motor mounts)

once the mounts are located then tranny crossmember can be located.

front cross member has been cut and the fab stage has begun for the hump.

front floors have been leveled.

[Deleted User]

Sounds cool! I'd like to see some pics of that flooring when you get a chance as well as the tranny hump.

[Deleted User]

Don't understand why I am experiencing difficulties posting message on street rods, therefore I am posting here and hope moderator will assist with correction, problem being after I sign in with user name and password, even after I recieve welcome message I am immediately redirected back to start up sign in page requesting user name and password?



P.S. I've check with Ted and was informed all my data is corect, therefore I am trying again with same below message.





Although my car isn't ready for interior, logistically I want to get a leg up and instead of installing Cadillac CTS leather seat already purchased on eBay I changed my mind and decided to reupholster the originals that came with my car. I stripped old ones down to metal frame, threw away all old cotton, burlap etc. Then l'll bring to bead blaster to remove ligth surface rust, and rebuild solid firm platform by tightening up springs, add new burlap, using firm foam rubber shape seats and back's. Already purchased striped material and ordered contrasting naugahyde.



Does any member have and want to sell front/rear intrior plastic door handles for '52 coupe, also curved piece of stainless in center of door panel, if not I have some ideas of what to use however any suggestions may be helpful?



Thanks,



Ray

[Deleted User]

As per Ted J. Welch curtsey request from ClassicCar.com Forum I am posting test message with pictures to see if software posting problem has been resolved...Following is just for TEST purpose's along with my '62 Buick Skylark project restoration.



Ray

Ducor Kid

Ray

I know it's been a few months ago that you posted pics of Mustang takeoffs.

How do they look fitted up? I saw them and thought they looked great.



Larry

[Deleted User]

Ducor Kid wrote:

Ray

I know it's been a few months ago that you posted pics of Mustang takeoffs.

How do they look fitted up? I saw them and thought they looked great.



Larry

Hi Larry,



Sorry, I wish I could give you answer I'm experiencing some difficulties; to be honest with you I haven't seen my car or any pictures in over two months.



Ray

Ducor Kid

Ray wrote:

Hi Larry,



Sorry, I wish I could give you answer I'm experiencing some difficulties; to be honest with you I haven't seen my car or any pictures in over two months.



Ray

I understand I've been slow to work on mine. 100+ degree days do that to you.



Larry

[Deleted User]

Ducor Kid wrote:

Ray

I know it's been a few months ago that you posted pics of Mustang takeoffs.

How do they look fitted up? I saw them and thought they looked great.



Larry

Hi Larry,



Just in case your still interested see pictures with Mustang takeoffs.



Ray

faustmb

I think thoses wheels fit the car well. I wouldn't have guessed it.



Matt

[Deleted User]

It took me six months and I just had my car returned to me and before I purchased Ford takeoff wheels I was informed by restorer Ford wheels wouldn't represent a problem; so I purchasd unfortunately they don't fit 100% but after a little machine work should? I have two other matching ones and once again I was informed if I purchase Ford 9" rear end the other/rear two shouldn't represent a proper fit problem, however this remains to be seen?



Ray

Ducor Kid

Want machining would be needed to fit the wheels to the car?

The ford bolt pattern should make it easy.

Larry

[Deleted User]

Ducor Kid wrote:

Want machining would be needed to fit the wheels to the car?

The ford bolt pattern should make it easy.

Larry

Hi Larry,



Today I went to yard to check and complete comprehensive inventory of parts and material, to answer your question: So front wheels will tighten up properly slight machine work is required on five holes of wheels, with 9" ford rear end, I don't think there will be any fit problem; see attached pictures of sub frame and wheels installed last year.



Ray

[Deleted User]

Hudson308 wrote:

To fit billet wheels on the back of my stepdown, I had to fabricate new lug bolts that were a bit longer than stock to allow for the thicker wheels. You're not contemplating machining the wheel lug bosses to accomplish the same thing, are you?

Hi Hudson 308, (Love that engine with Twin-H set-up)



I believe the builder informed me wheel lug bosses required some machine work, but I just returned from yard (109 degrees in Vegas today) and my friend/mechanic informed me we should try exactly what you recommnded, in fact I'm going to machine shop to pick up my lug bolts for '62 Buick Skylark, that we have replaced 13 inch wheels with 15 inch and lug bolts needed some machine work for proper disc brakes set-up.



It will be a while before trying to handle hot steel in Vegas weather however thank you for constructive input.



Ray

[Deleted User]

Hudson308 wrote:

What I did was purchase some lug STUDS of the appropriate size (1/2"?) through Summit Racing or Jeg's. I bought the type that have the 12-point head on them, sold to drag racers that need longer lug studs to pass tech inspection. I then bought some new lug NUTS at NAPA and threaded them all the way down so that the flat backside of the nut was against the head of the stud. This allowed me to make some careful measuremements to determine how much to cut off the stud on a lathe. Once the studs were cut down it was a simple matter to reinstall the nuts on the studs again in the same fasion with a little JB weld to hold 'em in place. For the front wheels, I used the same type of studs threaded into the brake drum from the back, resulting in a conventional lug stud configuration in the front as seen on modern vehicles. These studs need to be secured in place so that they don't back out when installing your wheels, resulting in insufficient clearance from the internal brake hardware. There is enough clearance from the internal brake hardware to do this in the front, but NOT the back. lug bolts are also still necessary in the back to enable sliding your wheel/rim combo up into the rear wheel housing on a stepdown. By coincidence, the resulting cut-down stud length in the back was also the same as that needed in the front for proper lug nut clearance behind the wheel center caps. Now you know why you don't see many stepdowns with aluminum wheels!

Hi Hudson 308,



Thanks for taking the time posting comprehensive and most useful information of your past lug bolt experience, like I said it will be awhile before going forward however when I do, I'll post results.





Ray

Ol racer

Ray,

Regarding stock Hudson Gauges. To use a 6V Hudson dash with 12V can be done by using a Ford IVR (Intermittent Voltage Regulator) dash from '70 - '80's since apparently Ford had 6V Gauges back then. I changed all my dash bulbs to 12V then ran power thru the IVR with 6V to the gauges. The Hudson Fuel Tank & Gauge should work correctly. The Hudson Temp sender can be bushed to fit Chevy block and the Oil Light/Sender should work ok. The only glich is the Amp light working with the Internal regulated Alternator. I did it before but cant recall the method. I suggest contacting www.haywireinc.com, who converted a dash panel for me and provided Wiring Kits for my Rods, or disscuss with your local Alt/Starter Rebuild Shop. Cant advise on OD since still use Turbo 400's

Ol racer

Ray,

regarding using stock Gauges you may want to go to last page to see how I did it using a Ford 'IVR' dash regulator. (Not sure why response went to last pg).

[Deleted User]

I know that using the GM one wire is easy to do, but when I changed my 54 Coupe to 12 volt, I used an alternator and voltage regulator from a 70 Mustang. I wired the regulator in just like the Hudson regulator was wired and had no problem at all with the charging light.
Bob