Roof Decking Repair and Water Pump, other solutions
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So my friend finally came by and he removed the vent glass and cut new ones. However the seals from metro molded are about a week out as they are on production schedule.Since he has done A LOT of classic cars and antiques over the years, he said I should be using a sealant that’s kind of “runny” and uses a can/pump/gun to apply. I had no clue what he was talking about but since he uses it sometimes he went ahead and ordered some and when it comes in we’ll tackle the roof. I’ll have it ready by then. The pump attaches to the can of sealant itself, and he said it will “self level” in the groove and fill all the spaces and will not have any air bubbles like silicone can produce. Hey by all means he seems to know what he’s talking about; he said he has no doubt we can do it ourselves and if we start and unsure I can always bring it to upholstery shop and let him try. Lol so we’ll see how it goes.I did get a portion of the cloth off and the bows are in PERFECT shape. Wood is even painted black! Very cool. I’ll post pics. Interesting that there are metal cross members I’m guessing to increase stability.0
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I am sure you can do the job your self.
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About to have about 6-7 days off, sealant will be here Tuesday, hoping to finish roof! Seals for vent windows about a week or more out0
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Okay I’ve now got a problem. The front section of trim rail for the roof is completely rotted. I haven’t finished getting it out yet, however it doesn’t look good and I’ll need a new trim rail for the front. Does anyone have one or know where I can get a replacement? Really unfortunate. Im gonna finish getting it off see if there’s any other damage0
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Picture of the trim rail ?0
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"Bent Metal"on this forum would be able to duplicate this, I'm sure, but he would need the old one as a sample.0
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Okay, sorry I had to finish up. I’m almost ready for install! Here are some pics! Other rails are in good shape and shall clean up with evaporust very nicely.Front piece is lost cause, and will not hold and I’ll need replacement. Also, stupid rats at some point ate the antenna wire, and chewed on the dome wire. However, it’s still in great shape they must have not stayed there long. I’ll fix this before I install roof. Ima do some research with my local HAM club I’m in to see about best wire to use to redo this antenna and splice into up there. Low on my priority list tho lol.Pics:
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Actually, I think you could probably get away with using the one you have. It looks like enough holes are still these to secure everything. As previously stated, Bent Metal on this forum could make you a new one. I wouldn't know what his backlog of work is.0
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I’ll reach out to them and see. There’s an iron worker business around the corner from my house that does all sorts of custom work I’ll bring to him and see if he can make one as well doesn’t hurt. Idk if I can cause corners are pretty important. You can see the corners are FULL of racks versus the long runs are 2 inches apart. 🥺 I’ll also post a WTB ad on here as well just in case someone has one!0
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For your antenna wire, just use 16ga stranded copper. I get cloth covered wire from Brillmans here in Virginia but modern plastic coated will work just fine. Just make sure the rubber insulation grommets are good
btw. I’m a ham too0 -
Hey that’s awesome! I’m looking to get my general this year as I finally have a pretty good setup! I got a Titan DX antenna I gotta finish putting together then it’ll be online! KA5FOX is my sign. Maybe we’ll get a qso one day!Toddh said:For your antenna wire, just use 16ga stranded copper. I get cloth covered wire from Brillmans here in Virginia but modern plastic coated will work just fine. Just make sure the rubber insulation grommets are good
btw. I’m a ham too
never spliced cloth wire but I’m guessing it’s the same.0 -
Splicing stranded wire is the same whether cloth covered or not. Use rubber tubing or shrink tubing to cover the splice
I have my technician license only. I do more listening to SW on one of the several boat anchors I have. Most are old National receivers.0 -
Yeah I was gonna use heat shrink.Toddh said:Splicing stranded wire is the same whether cloth covered or not. Use rubber tubing or shrink tubing to cover the splice
I have my technician license only. I do more listening to SW on one of the several boat anchors I have. Most are old National receivers.
I only have my Tech as well. I have an ICOM 756 pro II I picked up used and it’s really cool. Got everything else ran just need to finish antenna install. I got an ICOM 5100a in my truck; but unfortunately here VHF/UHF is dead. A Google search will probably explain why. 🥺0 -
Should I make separate threads for updates on these projects? Now I’m torn cause if someone googles they’ll find the info in the thread.
contacted local metal fab places, sent out pics etc waiting on calls back. Reached out to some ford vendors, don’t know what will work perhaps I can take that trim and use it upside down and not use the top that snaps. Iron/aluminum worker place around corner wants me to come by so ima go by this afternoon!0 -
I would just continue with the same thread and keep the subject matter to the 34 restoration only.0
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Any progress on the 34 ?0
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Not much honestly. It’s been an incredibly busy week; my youngest was sick, I was on nights. Spent time with family this weekend and now for my 4 day stretch. BUT I’m off 7 days after Thursday so I’ll be finishing it for sure, unless I can start tacking this afternoon. I got all the material and sealant out, it’s ready. Oh I forgot I do need to go by some wire to repair antenna, but that’s incredibly easy.32huson said:Any progress on the 34 ?I did get with that guy who restores shades and will be sending him mine. Really good price imo for what he does.I also got the “Ford” roof trim in today, I honestly don’t know if it’ll work. Worst comes to worse I really don’t think it’ll matter after looking at how it was done originally. The fabric and everything was tacked with some larger tacks with bigger heads, so the trim I feel is more of a reinforcement with its tiny tacks. I may just use the trim piece I have and reinforce that one corner. I mean ima be filling it up with sealant anyways and tacking the shit out of it lol
STILL haven’t gotten around to adding some packing to water pump. Just hard to do anything when I got a baby home sick! I filled up an entire small cup tho from it leaking over the past couple weeks. Just gonna drain the top radiator tank over time I guess lol really hoping adding a couple rings will do the trick without digging out the old stuff seems like a complete pain with no room to work. At least if it’ll slow it down significantly until I can get one from Jeremy.0 -
Family comes first for sure. Could you post a picture of the Ford roof trim piece ?0
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If the original channeling is still holding together, chemically de-rust it and paint it. Carefully nail it back in - just at places where nails are vital to hold it down, the Hudson workers in 1934 left plenty out on mine. Follow up with sealant using my patented wet finger method and then the job's done.0
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Just thought a bit more about your problem of rust out at the bottom of the channel.
You could reinforce the bad bits at the bottom of the channel with thin strips of tin and put the nails through that.
The sealant will cancel out any slight differences in height at the bottom of the channel.0 -
Absolutely I’ll post this afternoon32huson said:Family comes first for sure. Could you post a picture of the Ford roof trim piece ?0 -
Well it’ll be in the morning I forgot lol. Since it’s been sitting what seems like a month now, the battery has been on a battery tender, should I do anything before starting it up to let it run for a bit? Don’t wanna mess it up at all maybe I’m just being overly cautious. I’m really upset with myself it’s taking so long to get the roof done with my limited time, I do have a guy that can finish it next Tuesday if I so desired but I’m really trying to save money. What I MAY do is get the cotton layer in and tacked, then bring it to him for JUST the vinyl being tacked…cause I really don’t know if tacking it in the front then stretching it and tacking in back and working around corners is gonna keep it from bubbling up like a balloon in the summer.0
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You must do this out in the sun, otherwise it will not stretch enough and will wrinkle.0
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FYI: Starter solenoids for the big Austin Healeys have the push button on the bottom.0
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Are you familiar with the method of building a wooden frame work larger then the roof of the car for pre stretching the material. The material is laid out in the sun then stretched over the framework tacked in place. The frame work is placed on the roof of and then material tacked working from middle of the roof sides forward and back . Excess material trimed off after.0
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Should not be an issues / prerequisites required in starting the car after a month on a batter tender.Guardian1fox2 said:Well it’ll be in the morning I forgot lol. Since it’s been sitting what seems like a month now, the battery has been on a battery tender, should I do anything before starting it up to let it run for a bit? Don’t wanna mess it up at all maybe I’m just being overly cautious. I’m really upset with myself it’s taking so long to get the roof done with my limited time, I do have a guy that can finish it next Tuesday if I so desired but I’m really trying to save money. What I MAY do is get the cotton layer in and tacked, then bring it to him for JUST the vinyl being tacked…cause I really don’t know if tacking it in the front then stretching it and tacking in back and working around corners is gonna keep it from bubbling up like a balloon in the summer.0 -
Ima try to grab some boards and do this tomorrow. Also, here is the trim. Sorry I kept forgetting to take a pic. In comparison pic, I do have the ford trim upside down than the way it would be normally used on a ford. At the end of the day it could work, I’d just need to bend it. But I think ima try to use what I got rust be damned. Lol32huson said:Are you familiar with the method of building a wooden frame work larger then the roof of the car for pre stretching the material. The material is laid out in the sun then stretched over the framework tacked in place. The frame work is placed on the roof of and then material tacked working from middle of the roof sides forward and back . Excess material trimed off after.0 -
Oops forgot pics
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Ok so you would fill that with some kind of sealer after it is installed and tacked down ?0
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That's what I did - see my earlier posts.32huson said:Ok so you would fill that with some kind of sealer after it is installed and tacked down ?0
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