iron guides and stainless steel valves

metalchipper2

Hello,I am rebuilding a 1956 Hudson 308.

I am asking about experience with using new stainless steel stem exhaust valves with iron valve guides. Either with bare [non_coated] stems or coated stems. From past experience, Stainless steel and iron guides do not play nicely with each other. Severe galling between the guides and stems has been my experience when the coated wears off. The answer to prevent this from happening is using "manganese bronze" guides or liners.

I have found long enough liners, but the install tools are about $800. For a one time use it is a bit much. Has anyone used adjustable hand reamers to bore the hole in the guide and then use a smaller one for the valves stem hole? I have the necessary valve seat tools to do that part of the work. On a side note: would it be better to start with a new iron guide and ream it out than using the old installed one?

I am thinking that a new one might be easier to cut than one that has been work hardened through the years?

Does any one know why Hudson cut a .378" diameter hole .566" deep in the top of the exhaust guides? It seems that would trap carbon from the exhaust gasses to wear the the valve stem? Only reason I can see that it would reduce-protect some of the heat from entering the valve stem?

I have received conflicting advice the need of using new style exhaust valves. Some say it is not needed for modern gas and some say it is? All I know that both the guides and valves need to be replaced.

 I know the first answer I will receive is to take it to a machine shop. Thanks but that takes all the fun out of it and is costly. This is my first Hudson rebuild, I have OVH other engines in the past so I am having fun working on my Dad's old 1946 Super six that he put in a 1952 308 in it. It is a tight fit so we are finding some work-a-rounds that he had to do.

Thanks for your advice.

Mark

Courtesy Man

I machined two sets of bronze valve guides for the 232,262 and 308 engines - ready to ship - reach me at HETgtkristi0@gmail.com - thanks Gert (remove the HET)

Courtesy Man

Mark I rebuilt a 56 Hornet engine for my 1947 Hudson PU truck some time back - poured my own engine motor mounts to clear the steering pitman arm and also put in a 1971 Cougar rear axle to work better with the Hudson overdrive trans. I could run at 80mph but trouble stopping it!! Oh I also removed the original hydraulic lifters and went with solids as I had no way to check the hydraulics - also check for cam compatibility. Currently rebuilding a 52 Hornet engine - Gert retired machinist.

metalchipper2

Hello Gert,

Email sent

Thanks,

Mark

Courtesy Man

No email recd Mark

metalchipper2

https://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/comment/254462#Comment_254462

Hello,

Resent email. Will take the full set, exhaust and intake.

Maybe check your junk-spam folder? I put my web address in the email---sometimes that will send my emails to junk!

Thanks again

Mark