iron guides and stainless steel valves

Hello,I am rebuilding a 1956 Hudson 308.

I am asking about experience with using new stainless steel stem exhaust valves with iron valve guides. Either with bare [non_coated] stems or coated stems. From past experience, Stainless steel and iron guides do not play nicely with each other. Severe galling between the guides and stems has been my experience when the coated wears off. The answer to prevent this from happening is using "manganese bronze" guides or liners.

I have found long enough liners, but the install tools are about $800. For a one time use it is a bit much. Has anyone used adjustable hand reamers to bore the hole in the guide and then use a smaller one for the valves stem hole? I have the necessary valve seat tools to do that part of the work. On a side note: would it be better to start with a new iron guide and ream it out than using the old installed one?

I am thinking that a new one might be easier to cut than one that has been work hardened through the years?

Does any one know why Hudson cut a .378" diameter hole .566" deep in the top of the exhaust guides? It seems that would trap carbon from the exhaust gasses to wear the the valve stem? Only reason I can see that it would reduce-protect some of the heat from entering the valve stem?

I have received conflicting advice the need of using new style exhaust valves. Some say it is not needed for modern gas and some say it is? All I know that both the guides and valves need to be replaced.

 I know the first answer I will receive is to take it to a machine shop. Thanks but that takes all the fun out of it and is costly. This is my first Hudson rebuild, I have OVH other engines in the past so I am having fun working on my Dad's old 1946 Super six that he put in a 1952 308 in it. It is a tight fit so we are finding some work-a-rounds that he had to do.

Thanks for your advice.

Mark