I'm at a loss
Comments
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Another wild guess: You see the terminal post (bolt) passing through the wall of the distributor, in the photo above? As you can see, there is a (cork?) spacer that insulates the post on the outside and inside of the distributor wall. But there should also be a rubber collar around the bolt, where it passes through the hole, insulating it on all sides from the distributor. You would have to loosen the nut and slide the bolt inward, to see if the insulator is hiding in there. If it's broken or worn, and the bolt touches the distributor wall, it grounds out the circuit.0
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This is my distributor
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Jon B I'll check that on this distributor, also my distributor cap came in today0
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So that is like mine. No internal jumper wire and an external condenser. Make sure your advance weights (under the top plate) are lubricated and the springs are good.If you want to disassemble and clean, you’ll need to remove the gear on the bottom by punching out the pin and the shaft, weights, etc. will come out. Clean and make sure the bushings in the shaft body are good. Don’t lose the two washers on either end of the shaft.Clean everything up and reassemble. I used a roll pin to replace the pin for the gear. You can get a beautiful restamped distributor tag from Kurt at Willys Distributors.Hope this helps0
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Val
I just reread some of the old posts. Your points should be shiny and bright on both sides. Use a point file and give them a good cleaning. You'll get a much stronger spark. Geoff was referring to the rotor and cap.
Your spare (not newly bought Autolite) might have some flashing on it causing it to fit poorly. That's an Autolite also, correct?
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Yes distributor rotor and cap are Autolite parts. And thank you Toddh for that info. And eddie I'll take some Henry cloth points and clean them up. I'm getting ready to post a picture on my other thread of clarity for ignition timing cuz I want to be sure where to put that pointer on the flywheel.0
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This may already have been said, but sometimes NOS points (when they've been in the box for decades) develop a "haze" and aren't shiny. Some folks use a folded dollar bill (a $100 bill might be fresher!), slid between the two points, to remove the haze without scratching the point surfaces.0
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John probably a $2 bill might work and be less expensive?0
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50C8DAN said:John probably a $2 bill might work and be less expensive?0
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As a precautionary measure and piece of mind I have sent my distributor to Dr Doug so that he can test it to ensure its good. I would hate to put everything all back together and it not start. After all the new items I have got I want to be sure on my existing items. My local chapter pres has a coil tester so I wil have him test that for me.0
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Good call....he helped me diagnose mine...0
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the good doctor received my distributor today. Hope to know something on soon.0
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early word back is that my distributor cap is missing something but Cole said that Doug will test it and go through it and call me to go over everything0
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I wonder if the contact button at the top was missing/damaged....0
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Do not have the luxury of putting a meter on this (red line points to) but my guess is the points are grounded due to missing screw sleeve and non conducting washer on outside of distributor body.0
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I wasn't told what was missing. And that could be an issue too with the points being grounded. That isn't the distributor that was in my car but rather one I am gonna use as it correct IGW 4126 for 1939. The one I have in it I think goes with a 1936 car. Still waiting for word back from Doc.0
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If you want a distrib rebuild this is the place to go to. They do them right and have a machine to check them on once they are finished. They rebuilt my C8 distributor and also one of my Studebakers and the final product was perfect and looked like new.
https://www.buffalomachineworks.com
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Thanks for the info Dan, I was told today that Doug will check my distributor this weekend.0
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Hey Val,
I am anxiously awaiting to find out what the problem is.....!0 -
I'll post when I get it running and the issue resolved.0
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Well, my ignition coil tested bad. Resistance reading range should be between 2 and 8 and 9 is 1.4. still give spark but I did think it was weak and this would be why. I bought another coil bankers cross if this one will be good.0
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Being speech to text is clearly not clear I will type this Reading should be between 2 and 8 secondary resistance on Sun machine. Mine reads 1.4 I bought another original type coil, fingers crossed it works. Still waiting to get my distributor back.0
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Hi Val, Don't know if its been mentioned but it's easy to time 180 deg out. Make sure #1 is coming up on compression (not #6 ) when you're seeing your timing marks.Just a thought, good Luck Bill0
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Thanks Bill, I'm using a TDC whistle0
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Still waiting on Ignition coil and Distributor, Did speak with Dr Doug and he saod that the points in that distributor were grounded. He said we would talk real soon. So hoping when he gets the time to install the rubber sleeve and non conductive washers. I am anxious to get this car running and back on the road0
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Ignition coil arrived yesterday. It was a easy to adapt to my car and is now connected. Now awaiting the distributor. I'll have a complete Autolite ignition system which is what the car came from the factory with.0
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I spoke with Cole @ Wildricks today. He informed me that the good doctor is finished with my distributor and that it will be sent out next week. So I hope to get my 39 back up and running soon. All NOS ignition parts so fingers crossed0
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Still waiting should be here soon I hope.0
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Received email saying it has shipped!! Yay!!!0
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Distributor is here!! The good doctor Doug took good care of it for me. I know it will work like new. Will try and get it in the car sometime this weekend.0
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