I'm at a loss
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keep us posted on your progress!0
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Definitely!0
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You bet I will!0
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Dropped the distributor in the car tonight. Had to flip the hold down bracket over so it would fit. It was hitting the block preventing full seating. Anyway she's in a locked down now. Set the timing and when the TDC whistle started going off I watched for the UDC 1-6 and hash marks to come in to view. I set as close to where Geoff Clark said to set the pointer. That's all for tonight I'll get back at it tomorrow.0
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I don't know if the following is true for your distributor, but it is for mine (1937).
The advance adjustment plate (which is also where the bolt holds the distributor to the block) actually has a clamp that holds it to the distributor body.
So, should any part of the distributor (like the oiler or the condenser) hit the engine block you can loosen the clamp, rotate the entire distributor until it no longer hits the block, and re-tighten the clamp.
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On my ‘34 T, there are timing advance/retard marks on both sides of the plate0
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Also, in my OM the distributor diagram shows #1 plug wire connected in the 5:00 position. Some folks like to put it at 1:00. With the spiral gear distributors it’s easy to get it off slightly.0
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JonB, yes my distributor is like that and I have Advance/Retard marks on both sides also. The clamp you refer to is what I am calling the base screw. So, today I got the cap on and clamped down. Had to loosen that screw and turn the distributor so I could get one of the clips free from the trans plate. I moved it back again after. I installed new Autolite plugs gapped @ 32 and torqued to 28ft lbs. Rotor just behind the number one spot on the cap so when I rotate for spark it should be dead on. Charging battery now. Progress being made although it be slow.0
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Dang it!! I'm at a dead stop again My number three plug wire is about three and a half to four inches too short. I'm going to have to get ahold of Rhode Island wire and order some extra. One day I'll get this thing going again and on the road.0
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Val
you can get spark plug wire, correct ends and rubber boots for the distributor end of the wires from Brillman. Cutting and crimping your own is the way to go. PM me and I’ll send you the part numbers to order.0 -
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I spoke with some one at Rhode Island wire today and they are taking care of me. But thanks Toddh. And I will pm you0
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Was told today by a representative from Rhode Island wire that my wire will not ship this week but will next week.0
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Probably stating the obvious, but are you using copper wire cored plug leads and have you screwed the plug caps very firmly into the leads ? The screw inside the cap has to really dig into the copper wire.
I have just started my engine to day after an overhaul. It was spitting and popping and not firing on all eight. Timing was OK and I had a good spark going through to the distributor. I'd fitted new plug caps onto the existing leads so checked them first. A couple would screw in tighter. Restarted and now running smoothly.0 -
Old Fogey UK, I am using the items sent by Rhode Island Wire, boots, metal end pieces all new stuff and connected secure . But thank you for your advice. I bet the old 8 sounds good!0
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Val said:Old Fogey UK, I am using the items sent by Rhode Island Wire, boots, metal end pieces all new stuff and connected secure . But thank you for your advice. I bet the old 8 sounds good!
It sounds better than it did before !
Hope the new ignition stuff solves your problems.
David.0 -
Me too!!!0
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I called RI and they said that their shipping person has been out sick. And they weren't sure my order got shipped yet. I 'll call them again this week. Really wanting to get my car going0
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Why don't you just install one of the old wires so you can work on your car while waiting for the new one to show up?
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New wire showed up this after noon! Try and get to it this evening after work0
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OK I got out there this afternoon, built the plug wire and got it installed. Putting a charge on the battery and I'm to the point where I turn the distributor for spark now. Get to that later or tomorrow. Keep you posted!!0
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As I look at it I kinda think my distributor is off and needs to be repositioned. I am at TDC but the rotor points more toward number 3. Have requested info from Geoff.0
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You need to re-position the distirbutor. You also need to ascertain whether the engien is ready to fire on 1 or 6. To do this check the tappet clearances. If it is ready to fire on 6, the tappets on No. 1 will have no clearance.0
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Geoff, how would I check that?0
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Remove the tappet cover, and physically move the tappets up and down, or use a feeler gauge. On t.d.c. either the front or back cylinder will be in firing position. Whichever one it is will have clearance at the tappets.0
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Thanks Geoff0
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Geoff’s method works and while you’re in there, check your valve/tappet clearances too. However I would only point out that it’s far easier to just rotate the engine (bump it with the starter button or use a flywheel rotator tool) to the TDC mark and see if you have compression (finger over spark plug hole or TDC whistle) on 1 or 6.Put a small mark on the side of your distributor so you know where your No. 1 plug wire is (the distributor cap will be off) so you can see where the rotor is when you insert the distributor into the block. (I believe you have the same distributor configuration as mine (34 Terraplane) with a spiral gear. They went to a off-center slot on the later distributors so you don’t have to worry about it getting out of whack.).0
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Toddh, thank you so much for all your advice. And.......She's Alive!!!! She started up and I let her run for about 20 minutes as she hadn't ran in a few months. Thanks to all for your help and advice. I now face a leaking fuel pump. But that looks to be an easy fix. After that on to the exhaust!!0
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congrats! Very satisfying when the car is running good. Don’t run bad gas through it!0
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Thank you, Bad thing about the gas, It was almost full when she quit. I do run Marvel Mystery oil in it and I will add some octane boost. But thanks again as my 39 rides again!!0
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