54 Super Wasp Hollywood makeover
Comments
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The tapered Timken axle bearings are $795.00 EACH side from NAPA, whereas the same part number in a non-tapered bearing is about twenty bucks; which of course, the non-tapered won't work on the Hudson axle. Call them yourself if you don't believe me. This has been discussed on this forum more than a few times.0
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of course, NAPA isn't the only source for these, right?0
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mars55 wrote:Let me get this straight, 54 HSWH opens a thread by asking for peoples thoughts and when people given them he gets upset and others jump in claiming he is being pick on. What's up with that. Didn't occur to 54 HSWH that people will have different opinions then his and when you ask for them you going to get them?
Sorry to inform you but I am NOT upset; I am going in the right direction for this car based upon my beliefs, my goals and my aspirations!!!
Many agree with me; in fact, most.
Maybe some Saturday night about midnight you will just happen to drive up to a red light and sit beside me, just admiring this ole heap, and when the light changes to green, I hope you are fast enough to read the personalized license plate,
"BLEWBYU"
Have a good one.
John0 -
Had a local fellow here in town that had a 56 Chev Nomad with SN 1. Did some checking and found out that each shop that build the Nomad started with the SN 1. The checking also found that this car was most likely the oldest Nomad in existance. Got him in contact with a few Nomad people and they offered to trade even for any type Nomad rod he wanted (custom built for him) so they could get SN 1 for themselves. They also offered high prices for an outright sale. He drives ole' SN 1 around today proud as punch. Does not care about all that other stuff. It looks like any run of the mill car show rod--and he changed it to the point it would be hard to return stock. Go figure--But, then that is what is great about this hobby. It is your money, it is your car and you can do what ever you want.
With this said: "Nice looking car!"0 -
37 Terraplane#2 wrote:Keep fixin it till there's nothing Hudson left but the emblem, Then go to the streetrod forum where you will find plenty of admirers. Adios my friend, Enjoy your RATROD,
The outside will be completely original, except for the dual exhaust, but many six's have those already.
i.e., it'll actually be a Resto-Mod (near original-looking on the outside & inside, but when you raise the hood, state-of-the-art driveline, rack & pinion PS, a lighter car with 250% more hp, many surprises & no leaks,,,,,,,,,)
see Resto-Mod Technology
http://www.resto-modtechnology.com/servlet/StoreFront0 -
Holy AirBags! How can you butcher a car that appears to have been already restored? Have you no respect for Hudson heritage at all? These Hudsons don't grow on trees like Chebbies. And the suspension they came with is superior to anything you could put under it anyway. If you don't want to be driving a '54 Wasp Hlywd, you shouldn't have bought one in the first place. What you are ending up with may look like a Hudson on the outside, but on the inside, you've turned it to just one more piece of junk. Yeah, I'm one of the old guys. I'm one of the old guys who actually appreciates and admires Hudson for what they were.0
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Hey John, you are going to love the car when you get it finished. I have a 48 Coupe custom, with Fatman, LS1, 60 4LE , 9 inch, big Tahoe buckets, 64 T bird rear seat, 59 Chevy dash, 57 Buick grill, all smooth and round.
I sold all of the old parts to a fellow forum member for $100 and he is building a more stock coupe.
I put a lot of miles on my coupe last summer, even got a pick at the Good Guys in Dallas. I am having a heck of a good time and can't wait for summer.
I would sure like to be the guy to pull up to your Hudson some Saturday night, because I will scare the both of us.
Barry0 -
ArkieJazz wrote:Holy AirBags! How can you butcher a car that appears to have been already restored? Have you no respect for Hudson heritage at all? These Hudsons don't grow on trees like Chebbies. And the suspension they came with is superior to anything you could put under it anyway. If you don't want to be driving a '54 Wasp Hlywd, you shouldn't have bought one in the first place. What you are ending up with may look like a Hudson on the outside, but on the inside, you've turned it to just one more piece of junk. Yeah, I'm one of the old guys. I'm one of the old guys who actually appreciates and admires Hudson for what they were.
This thread should have been moved to the street rod forum to start with , I doubt MOST agree with you HSWH, some overstated their opinions a little , far as Im concerned its still a shame !!0 -
This thing sounds like it's gonna be an accident waiting for a place to happen!0
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Mustang II = Pinto in size and weight!0
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Guys, it's a Mustang II RACK & PINION, not the entire front suspension! It's been a proven piece on tens of thousands of modified cars and street rods since the mid-'70s --- it WORKS!!!:p0
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Actually he is cutting out the Hudson front clip and welding in a Mustang II clip so he is replacing the whole front suspension.0
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It still works. When was the last time you heard of a street rod or modified car/truck with a Mustang II front suspension/rack fail??? I'm going to bet - NEVER. They work, period, or people wouldn't have kept doing this for nearly, what, 35 years now!
If some of you guys who are exuding such horror at what work is being done and actually LOOK at a modified car sometime, Hudson or not, you'd understand how and why this mod works.
Besides, he's modifying the Hudson front suspension, anyway, so what do the purists care either way? It is HIS car.0 -
ABOUT the engine:
LQ9 6.0L Big displacement equals big torque!
There’s no such thing as too much when it comes to engine displacement. And with 345 horses and 380 lb.-ft. of torque, the 6.0-liter GM Performance LQ9 V-8 makes the most of those cubic inches.
The LQ9 uses the proven LS architecture to provide robust performance in the Cadillac Escalade AWD. It features a sturdy iron block, but like the aluminum-block versions, the LQ9 has a deep-skirt, six-bolt-main block, with structural oil pan and other carefully engineered features to help make it a smooth running and strong engine. A special camshaft and tall intake manifold each are tuned to produce loads of useable torque across the entire rpm range.
GM Performance Parts delivers the LQ9 complete with the intake manifold, throttle body, fuel rail with injectors, balancer, exhaust manifolds, water pump and a flexplate for automatic transmissions. It comes with truck-style oil pan installed. The LQ9 can be fitted to older vehicles, providing modern performance and unquestionable capability. A handy reference guide (see page 276) is available to help install the engine in older cars or trucks with minimal guesswork.
http://www.gmhorsepower.com/LQ9.html
Now, how about 550 hp?
from Car Craft May 2007
They swapped the cam and changed the heads and ended up with a 550 horsepower LS2. And they'll show you how they did it and how you can duplicate it, with great detail, parts list, spec charts, dyno data and more.
http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/EngineShowcase/articles.jsp?engId=LQ9&engine=LQ9&sku=19156262&engCat=ls0 -
I have actually done this mod to cars before. I was only correcting your misconception that he was only adding a Mustang rack to the existing Hudson front end when he stated in his first post he was using the Fatman replacement stub.0
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Hay 54 HSWH--you are not first timer to this Forum and I have to assume that you were well aware of the type of response you could expect. Just as a few side notes, I have or will have both--a fully Customized Hudson in my 39 Mertz Roadster and a completely stock stepdown. I expect that I will love them both and enjoy driving them as well. I also have a recently built 69 GMC 'shop' pickup with a few modifications to include a Pontiac 455/520hp engine, louvers in the hood, frenched in 93 Cad tail lights lowered and the such. It is a lot of fun to drive, and as I learned yesterday in the six inches of new snowwe have--it is not very stable in bad weather. I got a kick out of your licence plate Blew and BYU (Brigham Young University, our local Utah school uses blue for their color. Nice slip of the letters....) If you were a University of Utah fan the plate could go something like READ BYU. Their color is red and they pride themselves on being "pesudo" intelectuals.0
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No misconception about it. You were implying that he was using a M-II front end in its entirety, which is not the case.0
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54 HSWH---Once knew a guy that would start a whole bunch of ???? then go around the corner and laugh while the rest of us idiots took it up and argued about it ????????????????????????? You ever live in INDPLS ??0
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FYI
Since I like original Hudsons as well as modified, so I think this particular Update Project is being done first class with proven top quality St Rod componets and when completed is certain to turn many heads wherever its driven plus garnish many awards when sitting....0 -
I think that a lot of people here think Mustang II front end and think of someone taking a 75 mustang, hacking the front suspension off and welding it to a front of a hudson. This is not the case. The only reason that they are called that, and someone correct me if I am wrong, is from the original use, the components and design were taken from these mustangs, the absolute subframe design is usually unique to most applications, and this is a proven tried and true design, I can't believe we are arguing about mustang ii setups, it is the best setup for all around adaptation for any streetrod, or custom.
As much as I would like to believe that a hudson steering and suspension are superior to everything in the free world, let's be honest guys, it's not. It is dated, albeit state of the art, circa 1948-1954, it is by today's standards sorta archaic.
54 HSWH's car will handle just fine, it will move, corner, and drive like a dream. I don't like the fact that he took a (gulp) great car (okay, so I don't like hollywoods....) and did this, but look at the pictures, listen to his plan, he's doing this first rate. He tried to make what he wanted, using hudson power, and it sounds like he was not happy. If nothing else, at least he's not customizing it real radical (I would cut the roof off, make a convertible) and it will look virtually stock. It will get brand recognition, and further the hudson name.
I think of anyone, I came a long way, and have been able to accept this as part of the hobby, and now it is time for everyone else to as well. If this was some backyard hack job, then I think it would deserve some of the criticism, but this guy is sinking a lot of money and time into this car to make a nice ride, at least give the guy a break.
One question for everyone, technically, isn't that escalade motor, a SBC??? hehe....0 -
hudsonkid wrote:isn't that escalade motor, a SBC??? hehe....
Nope. It's based off of the Northstar engine, from what I've heard.
As far as the M-II front ends goes, how can anyone miss the fact they are a proven system? And they DO come in various sizes, depending on the application.0 -
hudsonkid wrote:it is the best setup for all around adaptation for any streetrod, or custom.
As much as I would like to believe that a hudson steering and suspension are superior to everything in the free world, let's be honest guys, it's not. It is dated, albeit state of the art, circa 1948-1954, it is by today's standards sorta archaic.
54 HSWH's car will handle just fine, it will move, corner, and drive like a dream.
Hudsonkid made three statements without giving any proof. The first statement is that the Mustang II suspension is the best setup. The Mustang II suspension is 35 years old. There are newer suspensions which could be better. There are the new active controlled suspensions for instance. Is it the best or are hotrodders just traditionalists?
The Hudson suspension is old, but why is the Mustang II suspension better? Both suspension use the same short arm long arm suspension form. The only different is the Mustang II suspension uses ball joints and Hudson suspension uses king pins.
54 HSWH's car may handle just fine, but it would have handled just fine and probably better with stock suspension in view of Hudson excellence reputation for handling.
The point of this is that 54 HSWH is sending alot money on something that will not work any better then what he already has.0 -
66patrick66 wrote:No misconception about it. You were implying that he was using a M-II front end in its entirety, which is not the case.
Actually I didn't imply anything. Page 1 of this thread first post by 54 states he is using the Fatman MII Stage II stub he provided a link to page 6 that showed the kit he is using. Here it is http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=6 process is pretty simple. The "entire" front frame including all of the Hudson suspension is removed in front of the firewall. The complete Fatman MII Stage II kit is welded into place in its "entirety" not just the rack & pinion as you stated, the whole front frame stub that Fatman supplies which includes the complete front suspension. Its a really nice kit and they know how to do it on Hudsons as they even have a complete guide to installing on a Stepdown on their site.
I have zero opinion on what 54 is doing to his car as its his car. But if you are replacing the front end like this, Fatmans kit is the best to go with and they provide great phone support when you run into problems.0 -
The Escalade engine is a based on the GM corporate OHV V8, which is derived in some measure from the SBC. The Northstar engine is an OHC V8.0
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What is the differance between the 25877T and 25877 bearing for the hudson axle bearings0
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duncan wrote:What is the differance between the 25877T and 25877 bearing for the hudson axle bearings
The T.
Price/availability
the "T" bearing has a 1" in 12" Tapered bore with the larger end being 1.375" dia. the 28577 has a 1.375 straight bore.0 -
Dan, I wasn't positive on the Escalade engine. I had heard it was Northstar-based, but did not know for sure. Still a nice powerplant, in any case! I'm glad to see the modern computer-controlled engines making their way into street rods and modifieds - it does raise to bar over simply sticking in a SBC and calling it good!0
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In case any of you Hudson fellows decide to go this route (LS type engine and 4L65E tranny) the following is a good outline from G-MEN Transmissions for things to do to your tranny in order for it to handle 650 hp.
http://www.gmentransmission.com//executioner4l65e.htm
4L65E TRANSMISSION REBUILD (650 hp)
New wiring harness; new 1-2 solenoid; new 2-3 shift solenoid; new 3-2 control solenoid; PWM TCC solenoid; TCC valve;
SHIFT KIT (I assumed this-your choice)
IN THE CASE:
1.
1.) Step one of G-Men update kit.
2.) Step one of G-Men shift kit.
3.) Raybestos Z Pak™ replaces factory 5 clutches & steels in the 3-4 drum with 15 clutch/steel combinations. Raybestos Powertrain developed the Z Pak™ single-sided clutch system to solve the problem of 3-4 clutch pack failure in the 4L60, and 4L60E’s. They will withstand more abuse and heat the OEM clutches.
4.) Raybestos clutches and steels in the low reverse drum, reverse drum, and forward drum.
5.) 3†Extra wide band.
6.) The Beast Sun Shell with three times the holding power of the OEM sun shell
7.) All one-way sprags are replaced with heavy duty sprags.
8.) Corvette Servo
9.) All bushings, rings, and seals are replaced with OEM parts.
2. 10.) Ultra Cool, TRU Lube 5 Pinion planetary gear *
* TRANSTAR Industries, Inc., (consider)
* 7350 Young Drive
*
* Cleveland, Ohio 44146
*
* 1-800-359-3339
3.
IN THE PUMP:
1.
1.) Step two of G-Men update kit.
2.) Step two of G-Men 4L65E shift kit.
3.) New reverse boost valve.
4.) 13 vane pump rotor.
5.) 4140 hardened pump rings.
6.) Teflon pump bushings.
7.) 1870 code update
IN THE VALVE BODY:
1.
1.) Step three of G-Men update kit.
2.) Step three of G-Men 4L65E shift kit.
3.) New valve springs and valves when needed.
4.) Blocked accumulators for that good solid shift.
5.) 1870 code update
6.) All new shift solenoids
2.
This transmission is excellent for pulling and towing as well as street/strip and will handle an honest 650 hp.
NOTES TO INCREASE LINE PRESSURE:
NEW TCI® .570†BOOST VALVE SOLVES 4L60E/4L65E LINE PRESSURE PROBLEMS
The engineers at TCI® addressed these problems by bringing to market their new 0.570" Boost Valve (Part #374501 $55) for high performance GM 4L60E/4L65E transmissions. Installing this new large diameter boost valve in your high performance 4L60E/4L65E application will significantly increase line pressure, providing more clutch & band clamping load for quicker shifts, lower operating temperatures and extended transmission life.
The new TCI® 0.570†Boost Valve and sleeve is the largest in the industry and, when paired with the TCI® Trans-Scat® Kit (376002 $90), will produce line pressure in the 290-310 psi range. This dramatically-increased line pressure provides the best clamping pressure through all throttle positions to yield the quickest shifts and maximize the life of your performance 4L60E transmission.
For more information visit www.tciauto.com.\
RE: http://www.dragracingonline.com/itsnew/ix_2-1.html
These are the correct part numbers for the 4L65E (374501 & 376002)0 -
Hey, 54 HSWH as your phrase goes at the end, If it ain't broke, fix it til it is
Sometimes its just not about the money, its about the way you want it to look and handle
I am as mad as you, spent way to much money but I bet both of us will have spread the word alot more about Hudson's and Essex's as we fly down the road or the strip and everyone one will say what sort of car is that, they will blink and would have missed us LOL
Mike0 -
I can't help but grin.
I've spent alot of time on the phone with PaceRacer50, and its not the older Hudson stuff that has given him the trouble - its the newer "modern" stuff that keeps breaking.
I, on the other hand, keep having problems with the older driveline parts.
Nothing is bulletproof. You hammer it - its gonna break. Sooner or later.
Mark0
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