54 Super Wasp Hollywood makeover

essexcoupe3131

Hudsonator, Break !! the only thing that breaks is my heart, is when I see people who in real terms are all after the same goals but have different ways of approaching it and different end results

What can be said about all people that visit and stay on this site is the passion they have for these cars and sometimes when you get over pasionate, your feelings spill over. this is we all need a chill pill



Mike

Unknown

essexcoupe3131 wrote:

Hey, 54 HSWH as your phrase goes at the end, If it ain't broke, fix it til it is

Sometimes its just not about the money, its about the way you want it to look and handle

I am as mad as you, spent way to much money but I bet both of us will have spread the word alot more about Hudson's and Essex's as we fly down the road or the strip and everyone one will say what sort of car is that, they will blink and would have missed us LOL



Mike

If it ain't BROKE, fix it til it is



In the end it will be my WALLET that's "BROKE", I'm afraid!



But, I will have done what I wanted and I still believe that it's going to be a more enjoyable & reliable car (after sitting for 3 months it will crank immediately), plenty fast for this old guy (I'll have to wear Depends while at the drag strip), & a cool restored car (the AC unit will be available, + heat and defrost). How many cars with 435 hp can be driven to the drag strip, raced as many times as wanted and then driven home-no problems?



The only local car show that I have taken it to, people stated, "this is the best looking car here", and it wasn't completely back together.



Most everything must be redone again, including the upholstery as I have some newer ideas concerning comfort and trim.



Let's see what happens; I suspect there will be more Hudson Resto-Mod's coming sooner than later.



MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR, gang!



John

Unknown

This build can only be bad if you don't drive it HARD, FAST and OFTEN !

The only crime here would be if it sat in your garage when completed.



Terry

Unknown

The Mustang II, Stage II front suspension complete and sway bar was ordered 2 days ago;



$3,120 + shpg.



ETA, 1st week in January.



In the interim, measurements for the replacement differential will hopefully be taken and a Ford 9" with disc brakes, posi and e-brake will be ordered.

[Deleted User]

John, check with Wes Kitchens, he is in the roster, He had a 9 in done by Currie Enterprises. They used his old rear end as a pattern, and supposedly retained all the measurements in their computer for future use.
Bob

Unknown

Thanks; my engineer is planning a single driveshaft, so the angles will be different; believe Wes has a 2-pc driveshaft.



We could still do a 2-pc; let's see how it works out.



Thanks.



John

rambos_ride

54 HSWH wrote:

Thanks; my engineer is planning a single driveshaft, so the angles will be different; believe Wes has a 2-pc driveshaft.

We could still do a 2-pc; let's see how it works out.

Thanks.

John

I know we had some conversations a while back about 1 or 2pc drivelines.

I'd be concerned about high centering when going over bumps and entrances and actually hitting the tube on the tunnel with a 1pc given the wheel base of these cars - is your's shorter than 124"?

That is unless you are c-notching and tubbing the rear, and going to create a new torque tube tunnel for extra clearance when lowered?

A 2pc offers the least amount of modifications for either scenerio - lowered or not - because the main output shaft stays parrelell to the transmission output shaft only the rear shaft angle really needs to be considered to keep in mind locating the center carrier.

I see no reason a 2pc driveline cannot be made to withstand the HP rating you require.

The Chevy truck 2pc is a good fit with only a couple of inches needing to be removed from the rear shaft.

duncan

Hi Nick . Our 54 Hornet Hollywood just got back from the paint shop last

Monday. And it,s painted. Why not use a 54 hudson diff with the brng # 25877 and save a

lot of hastle and money. I can get the #25877 for$ 25.00 at my local parts

house.I would like to email a picture of our car and put it on this web

page but don,t know how . duncan

[Deleted User]

Duncans painted Hollywood.

duncan

Thankyou 51 Hornet for the great picture of our hollywood you are doing a great job of putting our car on the hudsonmotorcar.org

web page. One more question about the 25877 bearings in our 54

can they be greased from above the axle tube like the older hudsons.

There is a grease plug at hte end of the bearing holder where the breke backing plate bolts to.replace with a grease zerk . Does this still apply

Thanks again. I just got an email from my friend that come with about

10 members from the local car club with some more pictures.



duncan

Unknown

rambos_ride wrote:

I know we had some conversations a while back about 1 or 2pc drivelines.



I'd be concerned about high centering when going over bumps and entrances and actually hitting the tube on the tunnel with a 1pc given the wheel base of these cars - is your's shorter than 124"?



That is unless you are c-notching and tubbing the rear, and going to create a new torque tube tunnel for extra clearance when lowered?



A 2pc offers the least amount of modifications for either scenerio - lowered or not - because the main output shaft stays parrelell to the transmission output shaft only the rear shaft angle really needs to be considered to keep in mind locating the center carrier.



I see no reason a 2pc driveline cannot be made to withstand the HP rating you require.



The Chevy truck 2pc is a good fit with only a couple of inches needing to be removed from the rear shaft.

Thanks for posting, Dan. The Wasps are 5" shorter (119").



I found on ebay this 2-pc drive shaft for a '69 Chevy truck with Turbo 350, and it would need to be shortened on the rear shaft, Ford yoke installed & rebalanced. It will slip right into the 4L65E tranny.



We might go this route; we have options (AL one-pc might work too).



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-CHEVY-PICK-UP-2-PIECE-DRIVESHAFT-DRIVE-SHAFT-T-350_W0QQitemZ220183745926QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item220183745926



Just a big puzzle at the moment, but Marvin is tackling the driveline options.



Will keep you Hudson lovers posted.



HAPPY HOLIDAYS

Unknown

'47HUD wrote:

FOOLS with big idea's do things of this nature. Butcher a perfectly good, road-worthy car like a rare Super Wasp Hollywood. Only good thing coming from this exploit are the handful of useable parts that might end up in the hands of some true Hudson fanatics. I hope someone in the 'Hudson Nation' that needs an engine/trans. assembly & some of the other discarded parts will be able to purchase what they need for a true Hudson restoration.



'47HUD

I'd like to sell YOU the engine that only has a couple hundred miles on it; it leaks oil out both ends, and has a terrible vibration.



I paid $7K to have it built in Indy, plus 2 wasted trips, taking and retrieving it. Oh & the actual hp is probably no where near 200hp. The replacement engine AND tranny BOTH are state-of-the-art with 435 hp, and BOTH cost a LOT less.



GO FIGURE, dude.



I hope you don't remain in the dark ages.



In case you want to buy the engine that is the only thing I am willing to sell to you! Just send me a PM; Thanks

[Deleted User]

Can we just move on here? Maybe under the influence of Christmas cheer and good will toward men...

Most of us can see and understand BOTH sides of this, and maybe it's good that there is such tremendous feelings about our beloved Hudsons but now it's becoming a little like picking a scab from a wound.:)

Unknown

mars55 wrote:

Yea, I have some thoughts. Since the Mustang II is a small light car and the Hudson is a big heavy car, don't you think that the Mustang II, Stage II front suspension will be overstressed. Since Hudsons have fine reputation for being great handling automobiles, I don't think the Hudsons front suspension is archaic or heavy. In fact I think a stock Hudson could out handle your car with its overloaded and flexing Mustang II suspension. With gas prices going to the stratoshere and the fact that you cann't use 435 horsepower anywhere, I think 435 horsepower is a waste of money.

Hey, Mars, this (below the dotted line) is from the Fat Man Fabs website, p 6:



Please understand that for a heavier car/load, they use heavy-duty springs. i.e., a function of the load expected. The new eng/tranny will be lighter than the original eng/tranny, PLUS the front end replacement will be lighter too. Below they talk about putting one on a 55 Buick (Packard Olds, Pontiacs) , a HEAVY car, believe me.



If you go to the URL provided you will see photos & displays as well.

---

http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=6



The entire concept of our frame stub is to supply a method whereby a modern ball joint independent suspension can be installed to replace the old IFS. Most of the kingpin type original IFS systems have coil spring mounts that are integral in the frame rails. That bulge makes the rails too wide to accept a simple crossmember as in earlier cars like ’40 Fords and Chevys. We have developed a way to measure, design and fabricate a unitized frame rail and crossmember assembly that replaces the original frame ahead of the firewall, doing away with the offending bulges in the bargain. The key to a successful swap is that we are able to accurately locate the proper mounts and holes for the sheetmetal and radiator core support as well as the bumper. Most cars are quite consistent as to those dimensions, but we may ask you for measurements on certain models that have proven to be less consistent. We sometimes have several different drawings for the same make and model, and can use those dimensions to help assure we are using the correct design to match your car. The Packards, Olds, and Pontiacs are generally the most trouble with all the different series cars they produced. Chevy, Ford, and Buick designs seem to be very consistent.



1955 Buick stub installed in our shop — now ready for the polished SS arms and Shockwaves!



We take all measurements relative to the most forward body bolts that would have to be removed to pull the body off the frame. We need true centerline dimensions, not diagonals. By that, we mean that you must use a plumb bob to mark the floor with the front mount bolts and axle centerlines, and then draw transverse base lines across those marks. Now you can measure straight up the centerline of the car, finding the axle centerline and the radiator core support positions. Finally, note the height of the core support and bumper mounts so that those points are reproduced when the new frame stub is attached. With the core support position properly reproduced, the nose sheetmetal will fit as before. We have reprinted a very complete installation magazine article which is very thorough, and is available upon request. We really like to be able to speak with you one on one so any necessary questions can be asked and answered.



The key to the installation is to level the car with secure jackstands and enough weight so that it absolutely, positively cannot move! If it does move, all you dimension are useless and you will have trouble locating the new frame stub. Our directions will give you a measurement for the cutoff point, and it’s always a good idea to eyeball how that looks before the actual cut is made. Some of the stubs slide inside the original frame while most are cut at a point where the new rail closely matches the dimensions of the old frame. We supply internal gussets which are tacked inside the old frame to sleeve the joint and help position the new unit while dimensions are checked. The joints are designed to have a ¼" gap between the new and old frames. This provides a backed up multiple weld pass joint that will be stronger than the rest of the frame while having a smooth transition



This concept has worked out so well that we also can build the front parts of the complete chassis we build for ’37-48 Chevy cars, ’37-59 Chevy trucks, ’35-40 Ford, and ’35-56 Ford trucks. All too often, these cars have been the victim of botched GM factory subframe installs and track width problems. Our frame stubs will save the rest of the chassis and are made long enough that they’ll do the job no matter where the frame cuts were made.



Once you have determined that we have the frame stub for your car, refer to the previous page to see the different Stage suspensions we can install on that stub. The Stage prices shown on this page include the stub itself and all the bolt on Stage components. We can go on to provide engine mounts, power assist steering, sway bars, and disc brake options.

50C8DAN

John:



Was Uncommon Eng. the company that did your 308? If so what has been their response to your problems. They charge a lot for their stuff and if it is not worth it or if they are unwilling to stand behind their work then I think we should all know. I know several folks have referred them as a primo engine builder but from your comments I wonder. $7,000 it a lot of bucks (I know I am not telling you anything you do not know) for any engine rebuild in my book, but if it resulted in a worthless boat anchor well....... I would have gone back to them no matter what I paid. I would be thinking going after them in a most appropriate way.

Unknown

54hudson wrote:

why not put the 308 9xed engine into the jet drool:D?

at least it would all be Hudson and far more cool

on my scale.



http://www.uncommonengineering.com/

Excuse me while I go PUKE!!



=^..^=

Unknown

hudsonkid asked, "435 HP is probably enough, but what do they offer for this engine for hop up?"



These LS1-based engines are finding there way into lot's of different type cars; take this Buick Grand National with the LS1 + single turbo (1987 Buick Grand National, 6.0L, LS1, S75 Turbo, 224/224-112 Lunati Cam, 4" full exhaust, 4L80-E tranny, stock long block, 9.5 psi boost), e.g.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jq531vXOm9Q&NR=1



Phil's Chronicles the year-long build of his Chevy LS1 V8-powered Mazda Rx7.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wSQ0vYXX_4&feature=related



Here is APS Frankstons single turbo LS1 by Morabito Brothers doing 10.19 quarter mile @ 140 mph



http://youtube.com/watch?v=OAQr5j2PFqE



6.0L LS1-based turbo Buick startup: Startup of a Chevy LQ4 in Buick WE4. Engine is stock long block with Lunati 224-112 cam, headers and mounts made by owner, and a 4L80E.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyTzXLxbpOo&feature=related



87 GN with 6.0L single turbo: Just to show you guys what these new borg-warner turbos sound like



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFxBdKWTm3A&feature=related



Startup up of GN with LS1 turbo: startup after hot side installation and more assembly



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXEKn3XGKys



LS1 Turbo Camaro: 709.7 hp, Caliber Customs turbocharged LS1 camaro burnout dyno run



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RVcAcf9xHs&feature=related



Fastest LS1 Powered Street Car In The World: Wheel to Wheel Powertrain built this Twin Turbo car using Mike Moran's famous Caspar 1995 Chevy Camaro. 1/4 mile 6.866 sec @ 205.47 MPH. STREET LEGAL. WORLD RECORD



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t65VypaaRJU&feature=related



2005 GTO LQ9/L92/L76 426 Dyno 437HP: it was 110 degrees out today in Chandler, AZ, and still 437 HP naturally aspirated to the wheels. With the AC on and blistering heat out it's still uncontrollable



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD1fR4-lB5Y&feature=related



BOTTOM LINE=> HOW ABOUT 709.7 HORSE POWER? => Caliber Customs turbo-charged LS1 Camaro dyno-run & burnout!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RVcAcf9xHs&NR=1

---

Let's face it; take a LQ9 (LS1-based, 364 cu in), put it in a Hudson SUPER Jet, 4-wheel disc brakes, Ford 9" posi, add a Lunati turbo cam + a single turbo, limiting wheelie bars and you have more than 2-hands FULL (don't forget the helmet)!! ...............and you can drive it on the street (SLEEPER), 4 sure!! Who would guess?



a ~~ WILD RIDE ~~



IMHO

rambos_ride

54 HSWH wrote:

hudsonkid asked, "435 HP is probably enough, but what do they offer for this engine for hop up?"

These LS1-based engines are finding there way into lot's of different type cars...

Let's face it; take the LQ9 (LS1-based, 364 cu in), install it in a Hudson Jet, 4-wheel disc brakes, Ford 9" posi, add a Lunati turbo cam + a single turbo, limiting wheelie bars and you have more than 2-hands FULL!! and you can drive it on the street (SLEEPER), 4 sure!! Who would guess?

i.e., a ~~WILD~~ ride!

IMHO

Don't forget - big brakes, roll cage and seat belts (maybe even a parachute) in that lil' ol' jet!

Unknown

you guys are crazy, too much power for a hudson....



or is it?

Unknown

54hudson wrote:

why not put the 308 9xed engine into the jet drool:D?

at least it would all be Hudson and far more cool

on my scale.



http://www.uncommonengineering.com/

BELIEVE IT OR NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



VIDEO:



308 9X'd HUDSON ENGINE in RX7 FC



vs.



500 rwhp Ford COBRA street drag race; 45-PUNCH=> (45-145 mph)



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGi-IZxmHIo&NR=1



(yeah right)

Unknown

I just received a call from the Fat Man Fabrications' shipper ( $ 147.86; 8 pcs on one pallet), and the new front end has arrived in Memphis; it will be delivered tomorrow;



they had told me it would be the first week in January before it shipped - MERCY - that was fast!



=^..^=

[Deleted User]

Damn I've been missing it! LOL Gotta chime in here (hey, this isn't gonna beat my thread in length, is it?)!

54 HSWH, nice ride and well planned out. I am going with the Vette LT1/4L60e set-up cause it was what I could afford (they were much cheaper then than the LS1's and Hemi 5.7's, and certainly the 308 7-9X's!). My Fatman's MII is still sitting in my garage waiting for that fateful day of installation. Going to c-notch and probably go with a triangulated 4-link rear set-up w/ a Ford 9", disk brakes, lake pipes w/ diverters and dual exhaust out the back, and bagged all around. The interior of mine will remain mostly stock (except for the dvd player and stereo, but the body will be modified to the extent of shaving, frenching, ghost flames, and a '55 Olds grill insert. But, I always wanted a lead sled, and that's what I'm building. You know, Frommer (webrodder.com) did a spread on a MII set-up install on a Hornet Coupe and what a nice job and the review on the handling and performance was great.

Glad to see the progress on your ride, keep them coming. Do what you want and get some thick skin, its brutal out here! LOL

[Deleted User]

Can't wait to see this puppy on the road!



It would be worth a trip to the Nats with this car just to see the old jaws drop and the tongues wag on the mods --- until the tires got roasted off the rims!!!



I'm so diggin' this!

Unknown

I hate to say it, If i had something that had that much power, I would have to constantly clean off the rubber accumulated on the back end. I'm still not mature enough to have something that is quite that fast.



As far as the RX7 swaps, that's real common with them, and they're pretty fast.

Unknown

hudsonkid wrote:

I hate to say it, If i had something that had that much power, I would have to constantly clean off the rubber accumulated on the back end. I'm still not mature enough to have something that is quite that fast.

I agree! I'm going to try to set a better example!

Unknown

Well I saw the new stub on the car a couple days ago, all welded and painted. It looks great.

Unknown

Well, I have to make an admission; the actual hp rating from the factory is 345, not 435. Sorry about the confusion.



This was unintentional, and I have to be honest, so please forgive me. Thanks.



I was talking to a gent at Harris Performance about flashing my computer and he set me straight; his reflashing for $180, would give 1 mpg more on the highway, plus 28 more horsepower (= 373 hp).



John

Unknown

Just got this message from Marvin:



"I am right in the middle of mounting the engine now so feel free to drop by anytime to see how we are going."



more, progress photos URL:



http://www.bridgeracing.com/1954_hudson_hollywood.htm

Unknown

It WAS a real nice car, now it's gonna an accident looking for a place to happen.

[Deleted User]

Looks like pretty nice work to me. The Fatman front stub is well thought out and a nice setup. You can say there is nothing wrong with the original setup and you would be right but there is certainly nothing wrong with this setup and with power steering and brakes it will handle nicely. Will it hugely out perform the stock setup....no way but its nice still the same. Not a darn thing wrong with it now its done.